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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Getting DDII's

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Gauge going haywire

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) homebrew timing adjustments?

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I just ordered a set of used DD II injectors from Jetpilot, can anyone tell me what to expect in terms of power, fuel mileage+-, smoke, and overall quality. I am really excited as it appears i should gain about 90 hp outta them with the ETH motor i have. I really hope the clutch holds till i can afford one of them too, lol. Any and all comments welcome and appreciated.
 
I used to run my Comp on 3x3 almost all the time, then I put in the DD II's and now I leave the Box off unless provoked. Smoke wise, it's worse on the very warm days, you can make a little bit when taking off under low boost if you step right on it but by itself the Comp would make more when on 5x5. Of course now with the Comp and the 2's it will lay some pretty serious black smoke.



I haven't seen a positive change in mileage, maybe a slight negative change since I'm still playing with the new found power. Oo.
 
They made a very noticable difference on my truck. With the TTPM it was bye bye clutch too, so if you add a box you'll probably need a clutch very soon afterwards.
 
I had a set on my 01, and with a comp and hybrid 35/40 and 4:10's the truck did 387hp and 815 ftlbs of torque. I drove it to N. C. to power by poole for twins, and it got 22 mpg. . With the math, not the over head computer.

At the track did a 13. 8@ 104 mph.

If I ever get another 24v or take off my twins and mach 5's (Which I will never do) I would run the same set up again. Great performance and mpg combination. :cool:
 
FWIW I have run ddIIs, jammer 4s and now supermentals on a stock clutch with 100k miles on the truck. Hasn't slipped once yet (to my knowledge). I don't tow much either. That would make a difference for you.



If you add a timing box you will probably slip the clutch.



Jason
 
I'm also waiting on a set of DDII's, should get them Monday.



Hey Turbo Tim 1, with the Comp box Off, does it go back to stock timing (same as disconnected, just allowing the boost fooler)?



Yooper1, what kind of numbers are you putting down now? How about mileage with the twins?
 
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I love mine all around. My mileage has not changed at all, smoke is noticeable but not too bad, and power is awesome for the $'s. I have no complaints about them. You WILL be happy



John
 
Well as far as number it should be around 600hp. . Should be. I have the RASP, mach 5's and a B2 with the 35/40 hybrid and a full DTT with everything.

Driving back up from NC I got 17. 5 MPG. :eek: But a lot more fun!
 
smooth, reliable, not to much smoke on warm days (compaing to a box, and I wish they made more). I really like mine. Make sure you have a boost elbow or you will see EGTs get way to high.
 
I also forgot to ask, i have the directions for the install that were sent to me by jetpilot via email, it looks pretty straight forward, how long should i allow for the process, anything that will help me speed things up, and how hard is it to get the lines and bolts torqued back to where they need to be.

Thanks

Kevin
 
Kissfan113 said:
I also forgot to ask, i have the directions for the install that were sent to me by jetpilot via email, it looks pretty straight forward, how long should i allow for the process, anything that will help me speed things up, and how hard is it to get the lines and bolts torqued back to where they need to be.

Thanks

Kevin



Pull the Airhorn (cover the open tube with a baggie or rag and rubberband), stuff a rag in the open intake hole to keep forieng object from falling in. Move the APPS out of the way. Remove the rear hook. Pull the 3(?) bolts holding the plumbing clamps to the block, and the rear clamp laying flat holding two lines. Don't lose the bottom pad on that rear clamp.



Be ready to cut down the length of your 19mm open end or better yet pipe wrench for the #6 line. Use a crows foot to retorque the lines, or just tighten them up good n' tight.



Pulling the tubes back 1/4-1/2" makes removing injectors easier.



Do not loosen the inside bolt on the injector retainer. Only loosen the outside bolt, then slide the retainer out fom underneath the rear bolt.



Thread a head cover bolt into the injector and use a large screwdriver against the rocker to pull them out. Do one injector at a time and label which cyl they come out of.



Pulling the tubes back is mandatory prior to inserting each injector.



Apply the oil on your fingers to the replacement injector to ease insertion. Thread the bolt into the injector and tap lightly with a rubber maller if necessary. BE GENTLE! Make sure the hole is pointing toward the tube.



You may or may not need to crack a line or two open to purge air and get re-started.



Do you have a service manual to get the torque specs? Take your time, plan a couple of hours for your first time out.



Good luck,

R-N-R
 
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