Getting New Speaker Wire Into The Doors??

[Matt400]

I need to get new speaker wire through the doors and want to run this by TDR gang. I will use 16ga and will need (2) runs of it in each door because both front & rear doors will use components with the crossovers under the rear seat. I bought this 16ga wire-

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Trouble is they sent me a different wire, still 16ga but twisted and then covered once again which makes it kinda fat and round verses more flat. Its this stuff-

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My plans are to pull the new wire using the old speaker wire and am wondering if

A- Using the old speaker wire to pull the new is a bad idea and…

B- I should try and use the fatter stuff or get them to send me what I ordered- the more flat wire.



I understand the twisted is supposed to be better but if its a nightmare to install I won't care for it.



Thanks in advance for any ideas!

 

[bighammer]

You could try using the old wire. Hopefully they didn't tie it to the inner frame someplace. Might ask a stereo shop how they do it.



If it doesn't work, it's not that hard to get inside the door.

 

[y-knot]

I am going to assume that if you are pulling in new wire, you already have the door panels off? Sounds like you are replacing speakers as well. I think it is a good ideal to just the old wires to pull the new ones in. The problem area will be the rubber boots that protect the wires from the doors to the cab. You will probably have to take off the kick panels. When you go to pull the new wire, make sure you stagger the head, tapper it, so it makes a smoother pull. Also use some sort of a lubricant, soap, silicon gel, something. there are other wires in the door, so watch that you don't have them wound around each other and pull out a wire you need. The wire you chose looks very nice, fine strands, should work well. Good luck, hope everything turns out. I havn't done anything to my dodge, but I have a 2000 ranger I turned into a "pre runner" truck, with 10 1/2" total lift. I installed a nice stereo in it. I used booth JBL, and INFINNITY speakers, ALPINE head unit amps and cd. Turned out nice, and everything is crisp and clear. Sometimes it is nice to just jam-out for a while.

 

[illflem]

I think you're going to have to at least remove the old wires to get the new ones though. I did a similar project, it was a three hour battle trying to get the new wires though the rubber boot, there just isn't very much room. I almost gave up.

 

[wsmalley]

In my opinion and from what I have seen with a great many systems, there is not really a need to run new wires UNLESS there is something wrong with them. The change in sound quality just isn't there. Most component speakers include crossovers to split the signal so you shouldn't need to run two pairs of wires through the door.



I know for my system (bi-amped) I ran the RCA's for the front channels to the amp (obviously) but then I just ran the speaker wires from the amp back to the head-unit area and used the factory wire loom to get the signal out to the doors. Then took the stock wires into the MB Quart crossovers and tuck the C/O into the door panels. That hasn't given me a lick of trouble and the sound is STILL perfect.

 

[Cooker]

The stock guage wire will not handle very much juice and becasue it is not shielded very well it may induce noise into your system.



Typically you would want to mount the X-Overs a little closer to the speakers if possible. I have seen some guys mount the O-Overs in the doors. This is just a thought?



I never ran wires into the doors of the Dodge, but it always helped to remove one end of the boot if possible (maybe this cannot be done on the Dodge?)



I don't know if using the old speaker wires will work. I would imagine they have some other things bundled with the wires, but maybe not. With the door and the kickpanel off I wouldn't think it would be too difficult, but never having done it, yet , I really don't know. I will trust illflem though when he says it's a PIA.

 

[Matt400]

Originally posted by wsmalley

Most component speakers include crossovers to split the signal so you shouldn't need to run two pairs of wires through the door.

Yes but since the crossovers are not weather proof I thought I would mount them under the rear seat. I too bought the MB Quarts, so you found room in the doors and feel they are ok for moisture?

I just ran the speaker wires from the amp back to the head-unit area and used the factory wire loom to get the signal out to the doors.

Hrmm great idea, I will have to check out how big the stock wire size is, how many watts RMS per channel do you run?

 

[Matt400]

Originally posted by y-knot

I am going to assume that if you are pulling in new wire, you already have the door panels off?

Well not just yet, I am doind a little on-line research before starting. I plan to pull both seats, all the door panels, kick panels and carpet for the install which will be for 2 amps, 4 component speakers and new wire. I want it all out of my way so I can run the wires the way I want.

When you go to pull the new wire, make sure you stagger the head, tapper it, so it makes a smoother pull. Also use some sort of a lubricant, soap, silicon gel, something.

Good idea... thanks.

 

[RT66DOC]

I'd just like to get the buzzgrrzzzzaapp static out of my pass side door speaker (Infinity system). Worse when it's hot out. A loose connection? Where? At the radio? At the speaker?



What's with this anyway??? Is this another one of DC's engineering marvels - along with 5th gear, KDP, fuel gauge???

 

[y-knot]

Usually when there is a buzz it is a ground problem. If you decide to go with remote amps, run both a positive and negative wire from the battery back. If you don't , you will be sharing the ground with every chassis mounted device (fans, wiper,computer,ect). There is alot of "noise" to be found, and none of it is good to listen too. You looked like you picked high quality wire, do the same on the amp feeds. If you want to save a little, go to a welding supply store, and pick up what ever Gage wire you need there(welding cable is fine strand wire, with very heavy jacket, perfect for amp feeds), it is much cheaper then "monster cable". Make sure you use a good overload device of it, and put it where it is easy to access. The factory wires are junk, and you were right to replace them. When running wires along the door sills, or any where the covers are screwed down, be careful to avoid screwing into a wire (sounds like common since, but I did it once and about never found the problem). You are lucky, there is no ignition to worry about, so no chokes to install. Take your time and good luck.

 

[wsmalley]

Matt400....

I am running an alpine 360x4, so 90 watts per front channel. Like I said, I have no noise whatsoever, other than the stuff meant to come out. Oh yeah, there's plenty of room to stick the crossovers. As far as weather-proofing, heck the speakers are in there aren't they?



I am not entirely sure what my RMS power is, I haven't ever really looked. All I know is I can crank it to the point of driving people and myself out of the cab and the sound is Crystal Clear. I love Quarts