getting power windows to work on accessory

[rsturdevant]

is there a secret to getting power windows to work with the key in the accessory position, or better yet with no key at all?

 

[Macmc01]

If you have a Powerd seat option you can use this power for the windows. My 95 didn't have it but I have heard it works.

Mac

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95 Ram 2500 Auto Std Cab, Cat & Muffler Fell off, 125,000 miles.
Bombed-to-be!

 

[Joe G.]

What year truck?

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,DTT TC/VB,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[rsturdevant]

Originally posted by Joe G. :
What year truck?

I guess the year would help, it's 96 4x4.

 

[Joe G.]

If your truck is like my '95 I can help. There are two ways to do it, the easy way and the right way. Take a look at the door to your fuse panel on the left side of your dash. There should be two circuit breakers, CB1 and CB2. Both of them are 30A. CB1 (hot only for ign) is for the windows and CB2 (B+ from battery) is for the seats.

The easy way is to pull CB1 and jump the right side of the socket to the right side of the socket for CB2. DON'T put CB1 back in!!! Probably have trouble eventually with that way, corrosion and loosen up.

The right way is to remove the kick panel and cut the tan wire from CB1 and use a short piece of wire for a jumper to make the tan wire longer and solder it to the red/light blue wire to CB2. Remove the CBs for this so the heat of the soldering iron won't damage them. This is kind of a PITA since the parking brake is in the way but you don't have to worry about problems later. I left a short piece of the tan wire on there so I can use CB1 for something else. Use shrink tubing for the butt joint and the stub on CB1 if you do it this way. Have to tape the splice.

I hope this helps.


[This message has been edited by Joe G. (edited 04-10-2001). ]