Getting ready to change clutch in my '07, 5.9. Getting parts together. Questions.

[Motorhead]

I am getting ready to change out the Con-OFE for the organic HD South Bend clutch. The CON-OFE has performed flawlessly for 55,000 miles. I want an easier clutch for when I tow as with the 5th wheel trailer we now have, my wife will now drive the truck towing. This will make long trips easier on both of us as she is a very competent driver.
I have 88,000 miles total on the truck. I can't afford to have it apart for a week or two waiting on any wear parts I might find.
Besides the NEW South bend complete clutch assembly, I am ordering a new throw out bearing fork, pivot, front seal for the G-56 and a new front main shaft/throw out bearing guide. I have seen the new CAST IRON TO bearing guide. Anyone familiar with these or pros and cons? http://www.americanpowertrainwareho...ner-fits-05-dodge-ram-2500-3500-diesel-g56-6/
I am also ordering a new, Cummins rear main engine crankshaft seal and seal cover gasket. Any secrets to make the rear main engine seal replacement easy? I don't know if the rear seal will be needed or not, just want one on hand if needed. Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[ranger 393]

I just ordered a SB clutch for my nv5600, have not had a chance to install yet, but I too bought a rear main seal kit just in case, make sure you get the updated kit with the installment tool # BS-40650

I am getting ready to change out the Con-OFE for the organic HD South Bend clutch. The CON-OFE has performed flawlessly for 55,000 miles. I want an easier clutch for when I tow as with the 5th wheel trailer we now have, my wife will now drive the truck towing. This will make long trips easier on both of us as she is a very competent driver.
I have 88,000 miles total on the truck. I can't afford to have it apart for a week or two waiting on any wear parts I might find.
Besides the NEW South bend complete clutch assembly, I am ordering a new throw out bearing fork, pivot, front seal for the G-56 and a new front main shaft/throw out bearing guide. I have seen the new CAST IRON TO bearing guide. Anyone familiar with these or pros and cons? http://www.americanpowertrainwareho...ner-fits-05-dodge-ram-2500-3500-diesel-g56-6/
I am also ordering a new, Cummins rear main engine crankshaft seal and seal cover gasket. Any secrets to make the rear main engine seal replacement easy? I don't know if the rear seal will be needed or not, just want one on hand if needed. Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[bcbender]

I am purchasing my 1947-OK-HD today, and I think I am going to get the rear main seal also, has anyone changed it? I pulled the FW last night and the seal is a little wet. On the 1<-->10 scale how difficult is the seal to change, (I've had issues with rear mains in the past on "other" engines).

 

[Motorhead]

I am purchasing my 1947-OK-HD today, and I think I am going to get the rear main seal also, has anyone changed it? I pulled the FW last night and the seal is a little wet. On the 1<-->10 scale how difficult is the seal to change, (I've had issues with rear mains in the past on "other" engines).

I too have changed many rear seals and the one for the Cummins is a large OD seal. I know that the one direct from Cummins is expensive but that is the only seal I will use. Check this thread on how this guy did his. http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-2007-102/5-9-rear-main-seal-easy-way-304887/
The Cummins seal comes with a metal seal installer. I would also consider pulling the rear seal plate that bolts to the back of the engine and do the seal on a flat bench or with a press with flat plates on the seal and on the back side of the seal plate. Most important, in my opinion is to de-glaze the area on the crank where the seal lip contacts.

 

[leathermaneod]

My father and I changed the rear main seal on my 01 when we had the trans out. The screw method for removing the old seal didn't work for us. That seal is in there good!! We just kept ripping the screws out without it moving at all. I would expect and plan for having to remove the adapter plate and seal housing. Just my experience. Hopefully the job goes well for you!

 

[BigPapa]

I don't know that I've ever seen a rear main that was completely dry. My personal opinion, if it doesn't have a drip trail below it, leave it alone.

If you do decide to change it, make sure the crank and the seal are completely dry when reassembling.

 

[bcbender]

OK. this is what I found after I pulled the adapter plate last night, Seal looks good, no cracking, a little wet at the very bottom. How to judge whether to change or not, I think the bulk source of my oil leak was from the front seal running down the right side of the engine oil pan and blowing around the trans. adapter plate. I really hate to change the seal and risk a more severe leak. Any thoughts?

 

[bcbender]

I don't know that I've ever seen a rear main that was completely dry. My personal opinion, if it doesn't have a drip trail below it, leave it alone.

If you do decide to change it, make sure the crank and the seal are completely dry when reassembling.

The reason I think I may let it ride is the seal retainer and the back of the trans adapter were completely dry with the exception of the bottom most portion, That is why I am having trouble discerning if the oil originated from the rear seal, or is driven in from oil running off the back of the oil pan.

 

[ranger 393]

The reason I think I may let it ride is the seal retainer and the back of the trans adapter were completely dry with the exception of the bottom most portion, That is why I am having trouble discerning if the oil originated from the rear seal, or is driven in from oil running off the back of the oil pan.

I didn't change mine either it was dry.

 

[bcbender]

only the very bottom of the seal was a little wet, I'm used to my old Chevys, and when they're leaking (which is always LOL) oil is everywhere.

 

[BigPapa]

I would leave it alone. Make sure you replace the seal over the cam hole. Get me an ESN and I'll get you a part number.

 

[bcbender]

Thanks that's awesome, I replaced the cam seal with the one in the rear main seal kit but I'd like to get one and put it back one there so I "have" it, ESN 57085677. Putting in my new SB clutch tonight, a new 5600 tomorrow and hopefully be driving next week after a month down.

 

[BigPapa]

4945701 Rectangular Ring Seal