Getting ready to do clutch and have component quality questions (04 NV5600)

[S.Morris]

Doing some pricing on components for clutch change on my 04 (original clutch) at 355000km (221000 miles).Truck has only ever run with smjr on tow and will not exceed this hp/tq output in future. (release brg bad)

Have been happy with OEM (assume its a LUK ). Napa has a new Luk to offer. Is the stock SB 1947 O a better op[tion?

Is the OEM clutch hydraulic kit better than Napa or? SB recommend not to use theirs on stock clutch.

Is the SB release brg better than OEM or is NAPA equivalent to either in life span terms?

Will be updating flywheel to upgraded pilot brg.

Is Cummins the best place to go for rear main seal?

In you 5600 guys experience, is it necessary to change input seal if no leakage or weeping found.


Thanks for the input here. Trying to determine best components to attain another 350000km on next clutch

Steve

 

[Killgore]

Steve, I don't think you can find a better group of folks to work with than South Bend. They shoot straight, don't try to over-sell, and stand behind their product. Talk to Peter.
- Ed

 

[crabman]

^^^^^^
What he said.

 

[Regcabguy]

Consider the SBC OKHD. Smooth and can handle gobs of power.

 

[Killgore]

Regcabguy, that's what I'm running and it's giving excellent service.
- Ed

 

[rashwor]

Clarification

I changed my OEM clutch and bearings at 214144. I went back with the complete SBC 1947-O kit including the pilot and throw-out bearings. The throw-out bearing is bad again at 344230. Priced OEM the other day and it is about $100 for both bearings. It is $900+ for the OEM clutch kit, which does not include the bearings or flywheel. My money is tight now, so we are going to drop the transmission and if all that is bad is the bearings, I will just replace the pilot and throw-out bearings. If the fingers are bad on the pressure plate, I guess I will have to rob a bank.

For the record, the truck is stock power and I don't wear / slip a clutch when I tow. When we changed the original stock clutch at 214144, the pressure plate, disk, and flywheel looked new.

 

[S.Morris]

Any comment as to release bearings? Napa about 1/3 cost of OEM, and is SB better than OEM.
Calling Peter on todo list...

 

[NIsaacs]

This is what I used on my '01, slightly heavier than stock. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTQ5/K7027901HD/01351.oap?year=2004&make=Dodge&model=Ram%2B2500&vi=5168755&ck=Search_01351_5168755_3563&pt=01351&ppt=C0015

Nick

 

[Regcabguy]

Smarty burnt that up in a few thousand miles,thus the SBC.

 

[NIsaacs]

Smarty burnt that up in a few thousand miles,thus the SBC.

Op says Smarty JR on tow only. This one seems to hold level 5 on my Juice, 400/950.

Nick

 

[Regcabguy]

Op says Smarty JR on tow only. This one seems to hold level 5 on my Juice, 400/950.

Nick

Yeah,my Smarty's on #9,default. 35" tires and 2K# on my back. It slipped in 5th accelerating onto the freeway. It was a HD Valeo. Sorry for the misleading post. Engage brain before inserting foot.

 

[inlinesix3million]

I recently had the 1947 OKHD installed along with new South Bend Hydraulics and flywheel. Truck had 150,000 mi on it and I probably could have nursed it along for another

year or so. The old clutch barked at me once in a while when I was towing 10,000 lbs. I am very happy with the new unit. It has an oversized organic face along with the

pressure plate from the street dual disc. Rated for 1000 ft lbs. Stock is rated for 500 or so. It has none of the grabbiness of the ceramic/feramic dual discs- it is very well

mannered. The pedal feel is slightly heavier than stock, but you can hardly notice the difference. Don't forget to order a clutch return spring. It is a $5.00 part but no one

keeps them in stock. They nearly always need replacing. I did not know this at the time- and the shop had to keep the truck for an extra day, waiting for the expedited

part.

During my research, I was considering the model you mentioned and the one I ultimately purchaced. I see no glaring differences between the stock clutch mannerisms

and the 1947 OKHD. I am very happy with my new one. As for the release bearing question- I shop at NAPA quite often, and prefer them to most others. However,

SBC sells high end clutches and relies on their reputation. I would trust their release bearings to be of superior quality. I believe my stock clutch issues, for example,

were bearing related. My clutch, pressure plate, flywheel did not look too bad upon inspection.

If your NV5600 is not giving you any problems, then I would just run with it. Keep the oil fresh- it is a constant mesh and shears down the lube.

Hope this helps, and enjoy your truck!

 

[NIsaacs]

FYI, if you use an SBC kit, a lot of times they come with pressure plate bolts, don't use them, use your oem bolts.

Nick

 

[Tuesdak]

inlinesix3million and NIsaacs (bolt comment) pretty much nailed it. I run the 1947 OKHD and agree it's well behaved with the only downside being a heavy pedal. On a NV-5600 with worn syncro's the extra weight of this clutch disc shows up as notching and slower shifting.

I highly recommend replacing the front seal. You are replacing the rear main and staring at the high mile NV-5600 front seal.

At this mile range I would seriously consider refreshing the NV-5600 and making sure it gets the case mod for better rear bearing lube. It's expensive to haul the trans out and the syncro's don't last forever. I long thought my NV-5600 was very S L O W to shift and found out it was because the syncro's were worn completely out. Still isn't was I would call quick, but, a refresh improved shifting time and less notching when cold.

 

[S.Morris]

OK thanks guys

Planning to go with 1947 O as I do not need any overkill. Never slipped the original and suspect it will still be in quite good condition, except for the pilot (shot) and release (noisy). I will be machining my flywheel to accept the 1635-2RS.
This truck is a cream puff and has never been abused. Miles run per running hr a testament to the highway use

 

[rashwor]

I am going to drop my 5600 Monday. I am out of money, so I am going to try and do it on the cheap... I know, not advised, I get that, thanks. I will be replacing the pilot and throw-out bearings only and bolting it back up, providing every thing else looks good. Yeah, I am rolling the dice. It is what I do!

 

[Tuesdak]

Rashwor, would be curious how everything looks on the SBC after that many miles. Can you get some pics?

 

[rashwor]

I will certainly try to. Repair got postponed due to wife's Durango running hot; it is in the shop now.

 

[MLee]

I had mine done when on a trip, and every thing looked Ok. mach. decided to resurface the fly wheel, it was good any way the way it was, just to be sure, and when I got it back the release point seemed to have gone DOWN a bit, which when you are used to that position you have to learn to drive all over again. So I would check that out. You might be told it wont change that much, but it is noticeable.

 

[rashwor]

Durango fixed and out. Truck is now in the shop awaiting teardown.