Getting the exhaust housing OFF!!!

[Wirenut]

Ok, I had my turbo off before and I tried to get the exhaust housing off to change out with the bigger 18. 5 I have at the house, but I couldn't get that thing off for anything. I need everyones little tips for getting this thing apart because Im gonna try again tomorrow and I'm not giving up!!!!

 

[Diesel Dan]

Wirenut,

I hope your perseverance tank is full and you have an auxilary

took me two days of banging and penetrating fluid soaking to budge mine. tools reqiured include large brass pin(mine was 8 inches long and 1 inch wide) medium size sledge hammer and a willing helper. Basically i spent several hours holding the main part of the turbo as my neighbor held the pin and wailed on it with the sledge as i rotated it around and around and around... .

can still hear the brass "ping" just thinking about it. note the strongest of the participants needs to be holding the turbo as strong as possible to counteract the blow from the sledge. yes this will get very tiring! I was holding it with my arms fully extended and the turbo was down by my privates which is scarry enough to let you live with your current housing after doing this for several hours with breakes in between, I used penetrating oil (super wrench i think)let it soak overnight and after about 1 hour the next day Bingo!!!!

keep in mind it was a 89 and i did it last year(12 yrs of rust) hope yours is easier



Best of luck and keep fighting

DD

 

[illflem]

A good size vice, a 4 lb hand sledge and no fear of breaking it has separated many for me no problem. Banks has excellent instructions on how to do it, check out their web site.

 

[Pthomas]

a little heat ?

 

[Dbonzi]

I used a air chisel with a hammer bit in it.

You have to be very very careful cause it will move and you have to make sure you don't bend the fins on the turbo. It was the only way I could get mine to brake loose.

Good luck

Dennis

 

[Wirenut]

Let the banging, wailing, and cussing commence!

 

[Cooker]

This may help?



http://www.tstproducts.com/turbine_install.html

 

[DR]

Take it off, spray it with PB Blaster, tap it with a hammer for a while, more PB Blaster, then put it in the freezer for a few hours (the colder the better). Then follow the directions at www.tstproducts.com. If the cold doesn't work, then you have to heat the exhaust housing. If you have the chance spray it with PB Blaster everynight for a week and you may be able to avoid the temperature conditioning.

 

[Extreme1]

I recommend using a cutting torch to heat (locally) the joint where it seperates. This will put a lot of heat into a small area very quickly. Be careful though, you want to heat to remove the oxidation, don't get the assembly too hot. You will probably have to do amall sections at a time to use this method.



When the oxidation is gone, apply a penetrating oil. Then you can get out the large hammer and commence chain-swearing. There are a couple lugs that appear to be on the housing for beating it off the assembly.



Note: if you don't feel comfortabe doing it this way, don't. I was a mteal fabricator for a few years so I don't think twice about using such devices. In the hands of an amature though, you could spend a lot of money in a little time.

 

[Wirenut]

I gave up before I started yesterday. It was cold out, I went out, opened the hood and saw all the hard objects I was gonna bust my knuckles on in that freezing cold air and I closed the hood and went back inside! The clutch slips as it is anyway, I may just wait til I can get an HX-40.

 

[Wirenut]

Right after I posted that, I went out and did it. A whole spray can of Kano Kroil, a list of good cuss words, 2 tylenol for the headache from banging, and about an hours worth of solid banging with the 5 lb. sledge got it off. So I have the 18. 5 on there now, it helps a little on the heat issue. Can't wait to get the HX-40.