Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Glacier GFS-392 Installation Questions

[jdwroten]

On my 98. 5 3500, my fuel pressure at the filter is running 5 PSI unloaded. I changed filters and the pressure maybe went up 0. 5 PSI. When towing the 5th wheel it runs from 3 to 4 PSI depending on grade. Performance seems to be suffering too. I'm downshifting a lot on 2-3% grades just to maintain 55MPH when towing 32 foot 5th wheel. There is some bucking too, indicating starving.



I'm not interesting in pushing that hard, I just need a dependable tow vehicle. We're going to Alaska in it this summer so I need it to be rock solid.



I'm considering the Glacier GFS-392. I have a couple of questions.



Cost isn't that different between 392 and 391, but I'm running stock. Should I consider the 391? Or does the 392 offer advantages?



Do I need the big line kit, since I'm running essentially stock?



How difficult is it to install? What are the steps. We live on the road in the RV full-time, so I'll have to do it at an RV park. I do have a good set of basic tools. This is our only vehicle, so if it doesn't work, I'll have to rent a car until I can get it going again. I have tackled moderate projects before, like installing the gauges and the edge-comp. I can't tell from glacierdieselpower.com just how difficult a job it is. I don't see a thread showing the nitty-gritty of an install of this product. Maybe I missed it.



Any help appreciated



Jim

 

[BTowler]

My install was fairly simple, but I had access to a lift. The most difficult part is getting the fuel filler hose off and back on again (on is definitely the harder of the two). Set aside at least 2-3 hours if you are doing it unassisted.



As far as the choice of kits, since there isn't much difference I would suggest the 392, that way you will have it if you need it later.



The greatest plus for the big line kit is getting rid of all the banjo fittings. The factory lines will flow enough fuel for just about any motor out there, it is the banjo fittings that are the problem, the larger lines are just extra insurance for a good supply of fuel to the VP44.

 

[DFerverda]

Click on this link, on the right side is installation manual, shows how it works and what's needed.

http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/gdept.asp?dept_id=09

I also lifted the bed, but i was doing other work on the fuel module,and i dont like dropping the fuel tank.

My 392 is mounted and ready to hook up maybe today if i get the rest of my stuff done and have time. I didn't get a long enough piece of hose to return to the tank, and am now rethinking how i want to put the return back, either filler neck or modifing the one port on the fuel module and return there, outside the cup.

Dirk

 

[wildmanben]

just put the 392 in last night. Pretty easy install and started right up when done. I just cut the filler hose on the truck to put the return tube in. Lot easier than pulling it out. I am amazed how quiet it is. Good product so far.

 

[klaybus]

JD,

The install is pretty straight forward. Give yourself at least 2-3 hours though. As stated prior, do the 392. For the $20+- you'll save go for the bigger pump. The line kit that comes with the kit will make a huge differance. I went to a big line kit (Vulcans) prior to installing the Walbro pump & that alone made a huge difference but the OEM Carter pumps kept dying extremely early deaths.

I've only been running mine for about a month but so far I've had nothing but rock hard pressures including while pulling our 5vr over the mountains in Washington state... .

Good luck on your install & let us know how it turns out.



Clay

 

[Crazy Horse]

I just put the 392 on last week. The hardest thing as far as I was concerned was getting the old LP off the side if the Motor. You don't have to pull it off once you by pass it but I didn't want to look at it again. Here's a link to my done Photos. Since your's is a long bed you will have plenty of room for it all on the frame, It's gets a little cramped on a short bed but all worked out well.

 

[BTowler]

Crazyhorse,

Why the hoseclamps on the pushlock fittings? If it is a straight shot they are good up to 250 psi.

 

[jdwroten]

Thanks for all the good info. I printed the instructions that DFerverda showed the link for and crawled under my truck to see how I might tackle the installation. I was able to identify what I'll need to do to get it done. I'll order the 392 and post my results back here when I get it installed.



One other question though... When I cut the metal feed line from the tank, how much fuel spews out? I'm guessing just what's in the 3 or 4 feet of line, and not what's in the tank. Can I use my battery operated Dremel cutting tool to get through the line or is that dangerous? It's hard to see how I could get a tubing cutter to go around it or get a hacksaw into that space, as per instructions. Kinda tight.

 

[JR2]

When I cut my lines for my fuel system I used a very small (1. 5 inch tall) tubing cutter. I don't know where you would get one, I found my under a house I was living in about 15 years ago. Its made by Proto... . I would not want any sparks when I was cutting that line.

 

[klaybus]

Dremel Tool

I wouldn't use one..... You can buy a peanut tubing cutter at a hardware store, definitely the safest route. You will have enough room to turn it if you take a fuel line bracket off the frame.

As far as how much fuel, well thats kinda a crap shoot. I've had my fuel system apart enough to tell you diesel showers aren't much fun sooooo... It would be best to have a small piece of 3\8" line with a bolt inserted inside to make a plug you can shove onto the fuel line once you get it cut. Thats what I did & it worked pretty well.



Good luck & keep us posted.



Clay

 

[BTowler]

Get a small tubing cutter from Lowe's or Home Depot. As far as fuel spewage, I thought it would just be what was in the lines, but mine started a siphon action and kept draining. Luckily I had the pump mounted already so I just put the hose on and it stopped.

 

[Hobart]

Will I have to remove the intank pump or can I just splice in the Glacer kit?

 

[Crazy Horse]

BTowler,

The clamps make me sleep better at night :-laf . The little tubing cutter works good. You can loosen a couple of the factory line clamps on both side of where cut is going to be to pull the lines out a little bit to get some swinging room for the cutter to swing.



jdwroten,

When you cut the line have a catch pan in place and just back blow the line with compressed air that will stop the siphon effect out of the tank. As far as the other side it will just drain the line to the factory LP. I pulled the old LP off prior to cutting the line.

 

[Joe Mc]

Hobart - I would think the in-tank has to be 86'ed. Need more info - create a signature so we can tell what we're talking about here.


Jim - the thing that's gonna bust your chops is the dorman fitting on the tank. Inspect the new fitting in the kit that Rich sends so you can see how to depress the blue "snap holder" (not sure what it's really called). I used a pair of needle nose vise grips to depress the blue thingymagiggy. See pictures in my Readers Rigs of fuel tank R&R there's one with the vise grips in place. A hint - push and pull very carefully - when I installed mine I didn't realize it but, I cracked the return line just being in the vicinity.

As far as how much fuel will spill when you cut the line - what's in your tank. Remove the dorman fitting before you cut then you'll only spill what's in the line. Suggestion - get a 1/2 ball valve @ homo depot with barbed thread-in fittings, mount with strap mounts to the frame. Next time you have to service the fuel system (not sure if you went with the 2 micron filter or not - mounted mine on the frame) just close the valve and go for it. Oh, this also works as an anti-theft and/or "Gee how come dad's truck stalled - oh boy I:--)'m in trouble now" deterrent. :-laf

 

[jdwroten]

Joe Mc,



I'm not planning on removing the tank or removing the fitting on the top as you did. I'm just cutting the line down by the frame rails, as per Rich's instruction sheet. Guess I'll cut the line last and have the pump installed, ready to push on the new line to catch the spillage.



Jim

 

[Jeff Knight]

Hobart, You will have to remove the in tank pump. If you need a tank module check e-bay. Thats where I got mine from. Jeff

 

[jdwroten]

Follow-up

I ordered the Glacier 392 and they shipped it the same day. It's an incredible package, this box of parts. It's put together so well, you can tell it's based on years of practical experience.



I installed the fuel return manifold by removing the intake filler hose completely, as per instructions. It was a little tough to get to the upper clamp but I was able to turn it with a 1/4" socket.



I pre-assembled the extra filter, pump, and bypass valve and had this available underneath. Then I cut the steel fuel line with a mini-tube cutter, available at Lowe's. Of course it leaked before it was completely cut, so I held a rag around the leak and bent it back and forth until the line was completely severed. Then I slipped the hose from the assembly onto the supply line to stop the leak, then clamped it. I mounted the assembly to the frame and ran the return hose to the manifold. Then I made the electrical connections and finished up by connecting the pump output to the existing fuel filter inlet. The hardest part of the electrical was getting access to and unplugging the old LP factory connector. I ended up by removing the bracket holding it in place (I left installed the old LP as a backup). Total time 4+ hours, taking it slow, as per usual.



Then I reconnected the batteries, primed it three times, then started it. I came right on without hesitation and runs better than before. Pressure is now 14-15 psi. I haven't towed my trailer yet, but I expect performance to be much improved.



Thanks for all the tips. They were invaluable