Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Glacier GFS-392...Major problems after install!

[BTowler]

I just installed the Glacier Diesel GFS-392 lift pump kit today to replace my weak lift pump. The unit is pushing 20-21 psi at idle and never drops below 15 psi, the batteries which showed no signs of trouble before are now practically dead, am having major hard start issues, and if the truck sits for more than an hour the injectors have to be bled to start!!!! Anybody have any ideas what is going on? I bought the GDP unit based on recommendations from TDR users.

 

[obert]

If they are orig. batteries its about time for them to crap out, thats probly a seperate issue, although coincidential (sp?). Also the engine might still crank, but will NOT fire if ECM see's 10v or less. Check Batt voltage while cranking.



As for injectors..... If your really getting air when you bleed the lines, some thing is leaking and allowing fuel to gravity back to the tank level, at least a foot lower than the Injection pump. Scrupulously inspect the fuel supply system, especialy any connections you disturbed on the new pump install, remembering that suction lines between pump and tank might leak air in, but little or no fuel out.

 

[BTowler]

The batteries are about 3 years old, diehards, could be going out but I would hope not. Will check the lines, but I question the pressure relief valve in the system, this might allow fuel to drain back. The high pressure is a big issue as well.

 

[Scrappy]

try pulling the fuse to the pump (reinsert it after it is running) and start it to see if the starting issues go away. Some have had starting issues from too much pressure.

 

[BTowler]

Just talked to Rich at Glacier, he gave me instructions for reducing the pressure on the bypass. The batteries apparently were weak and the hard start killed them, picking up new ones today and after I make the adjustments everything should be fine.

 

[Crazygoat]

BTowler,



What did Rich at Glasier say? I just bought a system from him (392) and I am about to install it next week. I remember talking to him and he mentioned that the pump can be adjusted to provide 15 psi by removing a washer/spacer inside the pump. I am wondering how is this related to the backflow valve you are modifying?



JC

 

[Joe Mc]

Crazygoat - look at the relief valve in your kit, it has one end that turns off the main body, inside there should be a valve, spring and 2-4 varrious sized spacers. Based on the number and thinckness of spacers is what regulates the amount of "excess" supply pump pressure returning to the tank via the manifold, which is part of the kit and installs in the hose from the fill neck to the tank inlet collar. My truck has 149k on it and I've only had the GFS-392 about two months or so. My idle fuel pressure is 20# and WOT on 5-5 never get's less than 17#, that's with the big lines, no banjos and Vulcan draw straw and only Mach F-1. 6 sticks. The reason I mention all this is because I'm not sure if mine has the original VP but, I am sure it's got at least 75k on it and I've had no hard start issues before or after the GFS-392 install. The more probable area BT has a problem with is the VP to tank return line, which is the reason I installed the Vulcan draw straw - the metal supply and return pipes on my tank module were so rusty they leaked. However, I never had a leak before I installed the big line kit - I messed with the tank supply pipe to connect the new dorman to big line connector and must have split the line. In BT's case he may have done the same except on the return line causing an air leak/drain back to the dank from the VP etc.

Rich is the man, any problems with install or otherwise he's there for you - give him a call. Have fun with the install!!!

 

[BTowler]

JC, as Rich explained it to me, you remove shims from the relief valve to reduce pressure. He told me to remove the two smaller shims to get it around 15 psi. I plan on doing this tomorrow and will let you know how it turns out.



Joe, I did not install the big line kit yet, and have not messed with the return at all. After I installed the new batteries today it started right up, but as the day progressed the hard start began again, getting a little worse each time. At this point I am thinking it is either a weak alternator or something is grounding out and draining the batteries faster than they can be recharged.



Thanks,

Bruce

 

[DMannon]

BT,



Did you run new fuel lines from just forward of the tank to the filter housing, with the Walbro pump somewhere in the middle? If so, disconnect the fuel line at the filter housing, put the end in a bucket, and bump your starter.



Get out and look at the fuel flow coming out. You should get about a 1/2 gallon in the 20 seconds the pump runs. It should come out of the line clear and without bubbles or foam. If you have bubbly foamy fuel, you're getting air in the lines. Also, listen to the pump while it's building pressure. Does it make any kind of clicking sounds? That's cavitation from air getting in the line or a plugged pickup.



I just replaced my whole fuel system from the tank pickup to a new Blue Chip VP44 (I had a 216 code and low pressure with the stock LP). Went with Glacier's 3/8 lines all the way from the tank to the VP.



After replacing the lift pump and the VP44, I had exactly the problem you're talking about. It would run OK, but started hard or I had to bleed the injectors to get it to start.



My problem was a broken in tank pickup that was sucking air when I was at 1/4 tank. It seems to me that someone having fuel pressure problems ought to include scrutiny of their fuel pickup in their search.



The Draw Straw looks like a good fix for the fuel pickup...

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164221



Once I got that straightened out, no more problems, runs like a champ. Richard at Glacier and Chip at Blue Chip were incredibly helpful, not to mention patient. I can't say enough good stuff about those two outfits.



I'm real happy with the Glacier, and will probably remove one shim from the bypass valve to get the pressure down around 15 consistently; runs 19-20 now.

 

[Joe Mc]

JC and BT - DMannon hit the nail right on the head. See here for some snaps of the Vulcan Draw Straw install. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&userid=8327&albumid=18623

 

[DMannon]

Here's a pic of my install, pretty straightforward...

#ad




The blue/red inline prefilter came from Kragen, made by Spectre Performance. I drilled out the inlet and outlet holes in it a little bigger to improve flow. I like it because you can see if there's any crud buildup. Replacement filters are easy to get and cheap.



Doug

 

[Crazygoat]

I am installing a new VP 44 from Industrial Injection as well as the Glasier system with a big hose kit to the VP. I will also instal a pre-filter that I bought from Richard at Glasier; although I like DMannon's setup better because you can see if you have crud in the line. I'll report back after it's all in. I am also trying to leave the old Carter pump in place and keep it as a back up. Maybe I can plum it with a bypass valve...



JC

 

[BTowler]

OK, latest update. Went to start the truck this morning, first try, started right up like it should. Went to my brothers shop and checked the alternator, it was a little on the weak side so I picked up a new one to replace it. In all the driving around I did it did not hard start once. Got back to the shop and replaced it and when I went to start the truck it hard started again and hard started the next few times I have tried it. Nothing like it did immediately following changing the pump, then it would crank ten to twelve times before it would even try to catch, if at all, but it goes four to six cranks before firing. I have not tried checking the fuel output of the pump for aereation yet, but since it seems to be an intermittent problem I don't think that would be the problem.



I do need to drop the tank, my sending unit is sticking, so I will try a Vulcan draw straw kit to make sure everything is good and sound at that point.

 

[BTowler]

Well, I have had a few people tell me what I did not want to hear, a dying VP44, since it was replaced about 14 months ago!!! :--) I even talked to the guys at Blue Chip and they said the symptons sound like the computer on the VP44, which is what causes hot hard start problems. Oh well, I guess my next question would be the Blue Chip pump which is supposed to be more reliable or a HRVP44?

 

[Crazygoat]

From what I been reading the II HRVP44 is a high performance IP, if you are moding your truck it will probably work great, but if you are running it close to stock I would stick to a stock pump. From what I read Blue Chip's high end rebuild is the shisnitz, but at $1600 it is a bit too pricey for me. I just bought and had installed a Industrial Injection pump ($1100 or $1050) with a Glasier LP system. We had the Glasier system routed so that if it ever fails on the trail I can re-connect the Carter LP. Now I just need to get a new fuel pressure gage, i am thinking Westach but maybe Isspro? Any suggestions?



JC