GM 6.5TD - more problems

[DPelletier]

Hi, I posted a while back that my '93 6. 5TD had died again. Had the mechanic rip it apart finally and it has a burnt valve on #6 cylinder. I just had the heads rebuilt 12,000 mi ago (10 months). by the time the dealer was done with me last time it was a $4,700. 00 bill It was a bent valve last time. Does anyone have any thoughts about what could be causing these problems? carbon build-up? I would post on the chevy site, but they probably wouldn't believe me. The TDR is the best.

Thanks

Dave

 

[FFutch]

Cummins time

Sounds like it's time to convert to a 5. 9. I really don't know a whole lot about the 6. 5 except it's kinda gutless. We had 6. 2's in the Army and I was never impressed,not even with the "high performance "HUMMV's. Go with a 12valve and crank it up,you'll be like Oo. Oo. ... Doug

 

[JoeyD]

Sounds like that dealer did some stealing.

$4700 for a head job, was that all they did?

Did they give you a new head? Sounds like a rebuilt one. Anyways the only head problems have been, gasket which would have other syptoms or the head is bad. They do crack between the valves on some trucks so they should have been checked.

Post any info about it on the GM site, someone will help you out. Unless your post sounds like FFutch's

 

[Mr. Brewski]

I had a 6. 2 that was bending pushrods - and it ended up having bad roller followers (Lifters) - Ya might wanna check them out to, my was pumped all the way up and it would not collapse. The lifters can be changed with only removnig the valve covers.



In defense of the Chebby Diesel - That "Gutless" 6. 2 would show tailgate to my brothers 1st gen ('93 5sp) easily. It was BOMBED with a Banks Turbo.

 

[DPelletier]

Thanks for the replies. The heads were rebuilt, but it wasn't all they did. Price breaks down as follows;

- Oil filter and oil change: $43. 71

- replace lift pump: $ 216. 50

- replace diesel filter $ 85. 35

- replace air filter $ 47. 70

- replace front brake hoses $ 87. 74

- Parts for head replacement $ 937. 60

- Labor for head replacement $ 1195. 20

- rebuilt heads $ 1159. 87

- diagnosis parts and labor $ 86. 44

- replace broken wheel stud $ 36. 00

- enviro fee etc. $ 24. 87

- taxes $ 568. 56



Grand total: $4,489. 54



I talked to the dealer again yesterday and the best I can get them to do is warranty the heads (unless they can find a problem that caused the heads to fail) and split the labour bill. I expect that I'll end up paying about $1,500. 00 plus the time for the independant mechanic that I hired to diagnose the problem in the first place. I could live with the fact that the original big $ repair only lasted 10 months IF it stays fixed this time. I expect that I should get 60,000 mi out of an engine that has been fully checked out (compression good, etc. ) and has new heads, etc. etc. But if the damn thing dies again by this time next year, it is going to the autowreckers.

Replacing the engine with a cummins isn't a viable option. This isn't a truck that I drive personally and by the time I found an engine and paid someone to do the conversion, I would be way farther ahead just to sell it and buy a dodge/cummins. Unfortunately it is still cheaper for me to fix the 6. 5TD.

Dave

 

[78repowerwagon]

I have a spare motor with a broken block. PM me if you need any parts.

 

[DPelletier]

Update:

the valve was bent, not burnt. The explanation given is that there are plastic tabs on the rocker bar that keep the rocker arms in line and this plastic tab broke off on #6. #3 is cracked. I can't believe that they would use plastic for such an important part! Anyway, $1,300. 00 later, new plastic thingys, one new valve and the truck runs again. I just wonder for how long.



Dave

 

[Bill Lins]

bye-bye

I believe I'd trade it before it breaks again.

 

[jgil104]

why not shift this over to the diesel page im sure jim bigley will happy to give you good advice

http://www.62-65-dieselpage.com/they are a pretty knowledgeable group with alot of members north of the border.

 

[jgil104]

jim' email address is: -- email address removed --

 

[drees1]

I had the same thing happen with my 455 buick. The plastic button that holds the rocker in line broke, bent a valve and kissed the piston. Those plastic buttons are like the fir tree buttons they use all over the interior, only nylon and very tight fit in the rocker shaft. The second time I heated mine in boiling water to soften it before I installed it. They are easy to crack or shear when they are installed. Definitely labor related to the person who rebuilt the rocker assy. I would ask for full compensation as this was a human error on the part of the mechanic. Good luck