Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Goerend transmission help

[cluckmaster]

Anybody know how long in advance you have to make an appt. to get a transmission/converter done at Goerend? My transmission just started slipping and if it goes, I don't have a backup vehicle, so I'm shot. I've already spoken w/ him about what I need, but never set a date to do anything. I called four or five times last week and couldn't get a callback or an email return. Will he do something like this w/ short notice if it's an emergency situation?



Also, are any of you guys in the 450/500 or so hp range w/ a regular input? Trying to decide if I need a billet input w/ my realistic hp goals for the next year or two.



How many ofyou guys w/ aftermarket trannies had to have the lines replaced? Thanks! -Josh

 

[TravisG]

I have regular input and output shafts around 450 or so. And I replaced both transmission lines.



Dave is pretty busy he will call you back it might take him a while though. Let him know it is an emergency and he will do his best to help you out I am sure of it.

 

[RDyson]

When I called Dave and ordered my transmission, It was going to be about 3 weeks before he could install it. I decided to have him ship it to me to install myself. It ended up being about the same time because he had hurt his back, and the shipping was slower than expected.



Mine has billet input and intermediate, but stock output. At the time the billet outputs were on backorder and I didn't want to wait as mine was slipping also.



This is the first I have heard about changing the lines. Is that something we need to do with a built transmission? Dave never mentioned it.



Randy

 

[SEmerson]

The rubber on the one line can get old and leak. Also If you need a port for the temp sensor. But that is the only reasons I know of to replace them.

 

[bmoeller]

I already swapped in the hot line for the gauge sender, but had to replace the other 2. They were almost wore through where the plastic clamps were attached to them. Also, if you have the OEM style quick disconnect fittings on the OEM lines, I would replace them. Mine were leaking, and I know one guy that know, had his blow off after Goerends installed the transmission. Happened on the way home. Dave replaced the lines and rebuilt the O/D since it got trashed. Dave covered the whole thing, even the tow back to the shop. He loves the trans, and real happy with Dave.



I have new OEM shafts. Didn't have the cash for the laminated flexplate and billet at the time. I'm up close the 400hp, and haven't broken anything yet. If you plan on towing heavy or for competition, I would suggeset billet shafts. At least the input and intermediate. If you break the output, it won't neccessarially damage the rest of the trans, like the front 2 could could. Shouldn't have disassemble the whole thing either. Just comes out the back.

 

[cluckmaster]

Well, I just left my third phone message in a week and sent another email. I guess they just don't pick up the phone and eveything goes to voicemail? I can't seem to get through to talk to someone. Anyway, Dave was great when I talked to him back in the fall. Can't wait to get the transmission done.



I don't really tow, except on rare occasion, maybe a couple of tractors to a pull or a boat or something. I would like to be able to line up and launch without breaking something. I guess boosted launches are out w/out the billet input. But take a look at my sig, and probably the only mods I'll be able to afford soon, realistically, are a set of injectors, and maybe some DV. I'm not going to be making that much power for awhile. Probably going to grind my 8 to a 100 as well.



bmoeller, did you do the install yourself? If so, was it very difficult? Thanks. -Josh

 

[cluckmaster]

Got a call back! So... here's my questions I forgot to ask

- Any of you guys get a deep transmission pan, or is the regular one fine?

- Do any of you have a lock up switch/ controller and is it available w/ Goerend trannies?

- Did any of you go w/ a reinforced or billet flexplate?



Kind of at my limit financially if I just get the transmission/triple lock converter/ and billet input. Just hate to go "cheap" (the word cheap is laughable when talking transmissions) if it's not what I need.



Also, how many of you did your own install? Thanks! -Josh

 

[Partyat33]

I did not go deep transmission pan- lock it up and it cools fast.

I have a 47rh with a switch for 4th and lock up.

I went with reinforced flexplate. -- Not too expensive if I remember right.

I installed it with a friend. Swapped from a six speed

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Have Dave install a 3 position lockup switch, it's not expensive and does not take very long. If you do towing of any kind it's a great option to have. I used to tow heavy with my '97 and even with the double deep pan it could get hot. I'd hate to see how hot it would have gotten with the stock pan. The dd pan is something you could always install on your own at a later date if needed, it's pretty simple.

 

[RDelissen]

just try and get the better transmission line connections (from the older Dodge CTD), so the POS plastic connections that came on our Dodges are not gonna blow on yah.

 

[RDyson]

I have the stock pan.

Got the billet flexplate. After seeing the stock one I'm glad I did. Looks weak.



I installed mine with the help of a buddy and a 2 post lift. We had it out in 90 minutes. Took me 6 hours by myself to get it back in and full of oil. My buddy had to go Christmas shopping with his wife. Probably could have done it faster, but I was double checking everything. Didn't want to screw something up.



Randy

 

[bmoeller]

bmoeller, did you do the install yourself? If so, was it very difficult? Thanks.

Had them install this one. I replaced the one in my Ford myself (with help from my dad). Time and shop space were also an issue. Didn't have either. They got the install done much quicker than I could've.



Make sure to have the lockup switch installed. I keep kicking myself for skimping on that one. Would help out towing.



IIRC, the laminated flex plate is less than $200. I didn't get the DD pan. The stocker has been just fine for me. No temp problems at all. This trans runs 20-50* cooler than the stock one did.



If you know someone with a lift that you can use, it will be a HUGE help. If not, put the truck up on some 12"x12" blocks for more elbow room, and for room to slide the trans out. Helps a LOT, even with a 4x4 truck.

 

[cluckmaster]

Thanks forthe replies guys. . Think I've decided on the built transmission, triple lock converter, billet input, and reinforced flexplate, and do the install myself. More than I want to spend, but it seems like you can't do anything fun (pull or race) at all w/out doing the input and flexplate. I think my cousin had a transmission lift at his shop (works on farm equipment) that I could borrow for a day.

Anybody know what kind of line couplers this truck has (quick connect or screw in) for the transmission lines, or know where to look to tell? I need to know so he can send me the right ones.



Are you guys using a simple switch for the lockup, or a controller/module like the ATS co-pilot? How hard is it to do myself? Thanks. -Josh

 

[bmoeller]

My '97 had the crappy quick disconnects. New style now. They are towards the front of the underside of the engine and radiator area, IIRC.



3 postion lockup-



#ad




regular mystery switch-



http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque Converter Lockup Switch.pdf

 

[WaynesWorld]

cluckmaster,



Dave did my trans & plate. Oo.



I did the deep pan, color coordinated to my truck. The rear cover is the same. It looks great underneath the truck. If you are worried, install a temp gauge to monitor the trans.



MOST IMPORTANT--------

Talk to Dave abouty what stall speed you desire.

Plus where you want to go in the HP & TQ range.

We all know you will be beating the ---- out of the truck.

Try to guess on the high side.



By the way , Dave "IS THE BEST" when you are at his shop, explaining anything about your transmission that you have a question about.

I had mine done 3 years ago. i have almost 500 hp & 1000 lbs of TQ in the old girl now. :--)

AND its a daily driver with one charger.



WAYNES WORLD

 

[cluckmaster]

Well, I told him I was looking probably at 450-500 as a goal for the next year or two, and my truck is a daily driver but I want to be able to drive it hard and race occasionally. He was talking about 900/400 and 800/300 or something like that, which I guess is measurements of the stator fins? It was going over my head. There was an option to get a 10 blade stator, but it was xtra money, and he said the truck has to be set up just right for it, and didn't really recommend it for me. We didn't talk about the stall speed- what did you all get? Hopefully with the info I gave him on what I'm trying to do, he'll set it up right for me. If I knew a little more about trannies I'd be better off.



Just checked my line connections - up in the front they are quick disconnect. Where they hook up back by the transmission they look like metal screw in. Can I change the connections without changing the lines?



Also, I thought I'd read on here that someone switched the hard transmission lines to hydraulic lines. Seems like that would be a lot cheaper if it turns out mine are leaking. Anybody tried that?

 

[WaynesWorld]

Well, I told him I was looking probably at 450-500 as a goal for the next year or two, and my truck is a daily driver but I want to be able to drive it hard and race occasionally. He was talking about 900/400 and 800/300 or something like that, which I guess is measurements of the stator fins? It was going over my head. There was an option to get a 10 blade stator, but it was xtra money, and he said the truck has to be set up just right for it, and didn't really recommend it for me. We didn't talk about the stall speed- what did you all get? Hopefully with the info I gave him on what I'm trying to do, he'll set it up right for me. If I knew a little more about trannies I'd be better off.



Just checked my line connections - up in the front they are quick disconnect. Where they hook up back by the transmission they look like metal screw in. Can I change the connections without changing the lines?



Also, I thought I'd read on here that someone switched the hard transmission lines to hydraulic lines. Seems like that would be a lot cheaper if it turns out mine are leaking. Anybody tried that?

cluckmaster,

You need to ask Dave about your questions. He is the best at knowing what you are asking about. Be honest with him in that you don't understand what he said.

You can ask him about Waynes trans since you are heading to the same area that I'm at. Definitely change the lines !!

 

[cluckmaster]

Talked to Dave some more and have a much better understanding of this stuff. Going w/ a 15 blade stator, valve body that'll lock up in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and the "noisy pump". Sweet. Oo. Can't wait to get this thing in the truck.

 

[WaynesWorld]

cluckmaster,



When you do get the trans in, kindly let us know how you like it. Oo.



When are you going to go to Davers ?



WAYNES WORLD

 

[cluckmaster]

Will do! I'm installing myself, b/c I figured the money would be better spent on upgrades on the transmission. He's trying to get it shipped out today, but may not until Mon. If it goes out today, it'll be here next week!!!!