2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Going to do the front brakes - any words of wisdom

[VicR]

I think I am going to tackle the front brakes tomorrow. Any words of wisdom from TDR land before I try this? Been reading up on it in the FSM and search posts, and it looks pretty straight forward.



The only thing I don't have is a big C-clamp. Can I get by with a big screwdriver?



Also have to go grab a 3/8 hex wrench. NAPA here I come.



Thanks,



-Vic

 

[sdalton]

Spend the extra bucks and get a C-Clamp. they are cheap, and useful for other things. I dont see how you will do it without one. You will want one to apply constant and even pressure on the piston. I havent done one on my truck yet, but have done about 10 on other cars I have had. Very easy. Easier if you have someone helping, when time to bleed the brakes.

 

[csutton7]

sdalton is right--get the clamp--other than that it's pretty easy---chris

 

[VicR]

As long as I have to go buy that hex socket, I might as well grab a C-clamp. I am guesstimating that a 6 inch would do it?



By the way - why do they use special hex sockets on the calipers? I'm sure they have a reason...



-Vic

 

[T-Bone]

It takes a little bit of time to return the pistons in the calipers. Be patient and go slow. I left the old pad on the caliper and used it to compress the piston.



I polished the pins with emery cloth and lubed the bushings. New bushings and grease to lube them were supplied by Sam Peterson along with the pads. I also cleaned up (sanded) the area of the caliper where the shoulders of the pads ride. Look before you remove the pads, you will know where this is.



I used a bit of wire to hold the caliper up when working. Not a good idea to let it hang on the brake line.



My only problem when done was a squeak. On advice from Sam, I sanded down the outside ridge of rust on the disks. No more squeak.



T-Bone

 

[radixr]

We don't need no stinkin' C-clamps!

Just loosen the bleeder and you should be able to pry the piston back in. I've seen more than one post recommend opening the bleeder anyway to prevent pushing the fluid back into the master cylinder.

 

[pathaymond]

for what ever its worth I just use a nice clean turkey baster and remove the fluid from the master cyl with it Just take some out and then slowly clamp each cylinder open. checking to make sure you are not about to overflow the master cyl or get it to empty. Open the calipers just enough to install the pads . to far I am told can cause damage to the piston. top off the master cyl before you apply brakes for the first time and then top off and you are done no bleeding. works great for me the several times I have done my brakes. Easy job to do really

Patrick

 

[illflem]

Re: We don't need no stinkin' C-clamps!

radixr's advice is best. I've seen several master cylinders damaged from forcing the fluid back. Just open the bleed screw and the piston pushes back easily with your fingers, no need to bleed afterwards.

 

[Dennis Garrett]

If you have a lot of miles, it's a good chance to clean, repack, & snug up (or replace) your wheel bearings, & replace the seals. Might take the rotors in & check them for run out. I was one of the luck ones. No premature wear on the fronts. I got 80k out of the original pads, replaced them with Lifetime pads from Car Quest. I've got almlost 100k on them now, & they still look good. Had the rotors turned once, & they're still pretty nice. When I replaced the original back brakes, (at 160k) I put the bigger brake cylinders on from NAPA. They are a little bigger in dia. than the originals my 2500 came with. Feels a little better stopping.

 

[Bigramguy]

Large channellocks

A large pair of channellocks or water pump pliers can also be used to press the caliper piston back. Use the old inboard pad to protect the caliper piston and boot. I find it easier and use them instead of a c-clamp.

 

[tgbol]

Make sure to crack the bleeder valve open before compessing the caliper. If you don't, you run the chance of forcing contaminated fluid into the anti-lock valves. I have seen lots of failures caused by plugged valves in the anti lock system.

 

[rchall]

no bleeding of breaks

Place a clear plastic hose over the end of the bleed screw, and place a small cup under the hose to catch the run off then open the bleed screw and let it stay open until you finish the break job then close off the bleed screw and You will never have to bleed the system!!



Dennis is right about cleaning, repack, & snug up (or replace) your wheel bearings, & replace the seals. Use a good high temp grease!!

 

[C. Harlan]

Advice

If you cant be done with both sides in less than 30-45 minutes, something is wrong! I can have both sides done, replaced with new pads, and reinstalled usually within 30 min. . It's a snap! plus with my front end replacement bumper, I go through pads like no other!



-Chris-

 

[JohnE]

Completely remove the caliper.

Use compressed air and blow the cup out.

Thoroughly clean caliper.

Installl new o-ring and dust boot.



Drain as much fluid as possible from master cyliner.

Re-fill and pump system until lines(disconnected from caliper) flow clear.



Install calipers with new pads following regular fill & bleed process



Overkill, maybe.

Ever had a problem without doing the full schbang? Yep.

I can do the whole process in under 3 hours.



Repair braking systems as if your life depends on them... because it does!

 

[VicR]

Thanks for the help!

Thanks for the posts and PM's. I did it this morning and have to say it was fairly straight forward and easy.



One thing that bothered me a little was the 'slight' resistance that the wheels have when they are spinning off the ground. I would think they should spin freely, but the old pads were like that so I guess its the way its supposed to be.



My owners manual says a few hard stops to set the pads? Does that sound right?



All four of the old pads were worn very evenly too.



-Vic

 

[Rob Levandoski]

If you're handy at all this job is a piece of cake. I bought some really hard brakes from a TDR post several months ago and have been very disapointed. They were supposed to be US made and when I looked at 'em they said made in China. Brakes squeeled since day 1.



Anyway, get some decent brand semi-metalics. Also, check the rotors (if appliable) and turn 'em if needed. Again, not a hard job to do but you need the correct tools and resources.



Good luck.