Attention: TDR Forum Junkies here an install I did. It might help give you another idea for the filter mounting if you need one.....
I changed all my fuel lines over to stainless and all the fittings -AN. I know, I know... . some of you will think it's over kill but, I figure I want to do the sweetest job I can with all my mods. Plus, to change a bad lift pump or its filter… all I need is a crescent wrench.
I don't know if it's because I have an 07 but, with the filter mounted on the relocation bracket any where I tried to mount it on the frame rail, the filter hung at least 2" to 3" below it. This was unacceptable, not that I was going to be rock crawling but it was just too exposed. I didn't care for the horizontal option either, that would make a mess of a filter change and you’re taking the chance of letting dirty fuel into your CP3 line.
So, if anyone else has this problem... . here's one idea to deal with it. The relocation bracket comes as kind of an L shape with 2 support braces on it. I took a grinder to the spot welds on the braces and removed them.
Then, I used a table vise to straighten out the bracket so it was flat. I ran a little tig weld bead across the seam on the bracket to help make it rigid.
As you can see in the picture... I was now able to screw the bracket to the support beam for the cab. There's plenty of room once the screw goes through for it to NOT penetrate the floor of the cab and the filter is above the frame.
Dropping the tank is the biggest part of this job. It sounds intimidating but, really… it’s not. I was able to drop and reinstall the tank by myself. It sure helped that it was just about bone dry! I did help too that my truck is lifted 6”.
Without releasing the rear tank strap all the way, I did remove the front strap and used a floor jack to support it while I removed the OEM fuel lines and harness plug. Then it was just a matter of releasing the rear tank strap for it to drop right out. Then it’s time to drill your hole in the tank for the bulk head fitting. Be SURE to collect up all the shavings after drilling. I used a 15/16” paddle bit. I held my hand in the tank under the bit to try and catch everything. A few nice chunks got by and fell in the tank though that would have been a real problem had they not been removed. That's it! ;-)
Anyone planning to install one of Richards kits... . don't be shy at all. It's easy as pie. Richard’s kit comes with everything needed for the job and complete detailed ( with pictures ) instructions. One thing I should say about the rubber hoses and JIC fittings that come with his kit…. Be SURE to seat the hose all the way to the yellow thingy. Leaks are likely without doing this.
If you’re interested in doing the SS route like mine, it does obviously add to the cost. I may put together a few SS kits so, let me know if you’d like one. Or, with the correct sizes and time it’s easily done by yourself ;-)
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I changed all my fuel lines over to stainless and all the fittings -AN. I know, I know... . some of you will think it's over kill but, I figure I want to do the sweetest job I can with all my mods. Plus, to change a bad lift pump or its filter… all I need is a crescent wrench.
I don't know if it's because I have an 07 but, with the filter mounted on the relocation bracket any where I tried to mount it on the frame rail, the filter hung at least 2" to 3" below it. This was unacceptable, not that I was going to be rock crawling but it was just too exposed. I didn't care for the horizontal option either, that would make a mess of a filter change and you’re taking the chance of letting dirty fuel into your CP3 line.
So, if anyone else has this problem... . here's one idea to deal with it. The relocation bracket comes as kind of an L shape with 2 support braces on it. I took a grinder to the spot welds on the braces and removed them.
Then, I used a table vise to straighten out the bracket so it was flat. I ran a little tig weld bead across the seam on the bracket to help make it rigid.
As you can see in the picture... I was now able to screw the bracket to the support beam for the cab. There's plenty of room once the screw goes through for it to NOT penetrate the floor of the cab and the filter is above the frame.
Dropping the tank is the biggest part of this job. It sounds intimidating but, really… it’s not. I was able to drop and reinstall the tank by myself. It sure helped that it was just about bone dry! I did help too that my truck is lifted 6”.
Without releasing the rear tank strap all the way, I did remove the front strap and used a floor jack to support it while I removed the OEM fuel lines and harness plug. Then it was just a matter of releasing the rear tank strap for it to drop right out. Then it’s time to drill your hole in the tank for the bulk head fitting. Be SURE to collect up all the shavings after drilling. I used a 15/16” paddle bit. I held my hand in the tank under the bit to try and catch everything. A few nice chunks got by and fell in the tank though that would have been a real problem had they not been removed. That's it! ;-)
Anyone planning to install one of Richards kits... . don't be shy at all. It's easy as pie. Richard’s kit comes with everything needed for the job and complete detailed ( with pictures ) instructions. One thing I should say about the rubber hoses and JIC fittings that come with his kit…. Be SURE to seat the hose all the way to the yellow thingy. Leaks are likely without doing this.
If you’re interested in doing the SS route like mine, it does obviously add to the cost. I may put together a few SS kits so, let me know if you’d like one. Or, with the correct sizes and time it’s easily done by yourself ;-)
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