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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Good brake advise

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) HELP! getting starter off!

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Need to find a truck

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Two operating conditions materially affect brake wear. They are bedding the pads and rotors together, plus the pressure applied and time spent on the brake pedal. Bedding new brakes is often overlooked but is vital to long pad, and especially rotor, life. The idea is to introduce new pads and rotors to each other with enough heat to transfer some pad material onto the brake rotor, but not thermally shock the rotor. By having a "transfer layer" of brake pad material on the rotor, rotor wear is greatly reduced. Typical easygoing street driving does not bed the brakes because they do not get warm enough.



A series of ten 55-mph-to-25-mph braking events would be one likely bedding procedure. Another is ten full stops from 35 mph, with 30 seconds at 35 mph for cooling between stops. Often bedding instructions are included with new pads or rotors.



The important point when bedding brakes is to brake with moderate pedal pressure. Too light a pressure will not transfer material; hard braking is like dropping an ice cube into tap water. That crackling sound is the brake rotors relieving heat stress.



Achieving maximum brake life in normal operation again involves the difficult-to-describe "moderate" pedal pressure. Baer Braking Systems says maximum brake life comes when braking is initiated and completed with authority, but without hard pedal pressures. Avoid prolonged light pedal application at the end of the stop (a common practice), and don't sneak up on brake pedal application like a limousine driver with a bowl of goldfish on the seat.



Performance Friction, well known for its brake pads, said smooth and easy pedal work slows brake wear. With more of an eye on racing and hard enthusiast driving, they recommended braking early and heavily, with reduced emphasis on trail-braking deep into the corner. Being king of the late brakers also makes one king of the brake buyers, they point out.



Staying out of the ABS aids brake and tire life because of the on-and-off chatter it produces.



On a truly long downhill stretch we'd cycle the brakes using a series of moderate pressures. Long, light brake applications are brake heaters, so don't do that.



Drum brakes reject heat more slowly than disc brakes, so we'd avoid enthusiastic braking with them if possible; the various disc brake designs should not affect our advice.



Finally, brakes are a consumable. Using them up is far preferable to overworking the transmission and clutch in search of braking economy.
 
Pardon my ignorance, but how do you manage to stay out of the ABS when your roads are totally snow covered. As a matter of fact I'm not even sure mine works, at least it doesn't react like my wifes Explorer when it starts to slide. I almost slid into a TT the other day on a slight hill going into an intersection. He wasn't slowing down for me and I'm sure he seen me sliding.
 
This is a good breakin proceedure and usually assures good stopping power and less noise. The transfer of material from the pads to the rotors is the reason that carbon mets don't wear out the rotors. This proceedure may not be advisable on semi mets or pads of a lessor quality because they may not be able to handle the heat buildup. ----Sam
 
Brakes! We don need no steenking brakes! :D



When I was training for road racing one of the exercises was to run lap times with zero brakes :eek: really opens your eyes to proper apex setup and how fast corners can be taken. But we didn't race in snow ;)



One tip from I got from the Performance Friction folks was to sand the rotors with 120 grit to remove all the previous pad material before installing PF pads.
 
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