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2016 headlights vs 2013 headlights

Locking diffs

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I cannot imagine being 1" off side to side would have any significant effect on drive line angles. I would split the bags so you can fill each side independent of the other. That is generally a better set up anyway.
 
I cannot imagine being 1" off side to side would have any significant effect on drive line angles. I would split the bags so you can fill each side independent of the other. That is generally a better set up anyway.

I think his are split already and people are telling him to T them. SNOKING
 
I deflated my air bags and measured and I'm 1 full inch lower on my right side from the left at the peak of my rear wheel wells.


That should not be on a new truck. If anything, the left is usually slightly lower due to the fuel tank and driver weight over time, breaking down the left side suspension. Make sure you are on concrete or black top, not dirt. Is it possible you have mismatched tires? I know that sounds wild but anything is possible on a new truck and that would surely cause a launch shudder :D An inch mismatch is a lot.

PS: Measure the front also, left to right. With that much off on the rear the front will be off some too. Maybe the right front has a 2500 coil spring in it or the rear is a 2500??

Nick
 
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The new manual trucks have a traction shock mounted from the top center of the diff to the frame to combat pinion angle change.I haven't paid attention to know if the mounting boss exist on the aut trucks.It usess a Yellow bilstein f4 be5 1987 w1
 
I had aftermarket air bags installed. I wonder if the hitch shop that put them in had to undo something to get them installed and didn't put things back in the same holes as factory. Exactly one inch sounds like the spacing on an adjustable mount somewhere.
 
The new manual trucks have a traction shock mounted from the top center of the diff to the frame to combat pinion angle change.I haven't paid attention to know if the mounting boss exist on the aut trucks.It usess a Yellow bilstein f4 be5 1987 w1

Do the 2013's have this differential shock?
Did you say it.is useless?
 
Do the 2013's have this differential shock?
Did you say it.is useless?

I see very few manual trucks.Just paid attention to it because of this thread and it may help some with autos.If your diff has a 4 hole mounting pad on it you could add it very easily.There is also a company in washington that has been playing with this concept
 
OOOPS! I inadvertently started a new thread called "Box Unlevel Side To Side" regarding the 1" difference. Sorry guys! I guess I'll have to keep an eye on both. Must be an age thing.

Here is my post update after going in for service:

I took it it in to the dealer today and they shimmed the front right box corner so it's the same distance when looking at the box line against the bottom of the rear window, however, when I measured from the ground to the top of the box at each rear corner, it's still 3/4" difference.

I asked the service manager "How can this be as the box floor sits directly on the frame rails"?

He scratched his head and said "I don't know!"

I told him, I'm concerned that if they shim the box on one side, with my 5th wheel hitch bolted through the box to the frame rails, it's going to cause a different issue.

I can't stand it when I hook up to my 5th wheel and look out my rear window and see the gap between the box and the 5er nose narrowing from right to left.

Am I being to anal about this?
Could the frame be twisted?

It's a brand new truck and built in a factory under controlled conditions!

I will take Nick's suggestion and present the thought of checking the leaf springs to the dealer.
I did check the front end wheel well measurements and they are within 1/8" difference side to side.
 
The new manual trucks have a traction shock mounted from the top center of the diff to the frame to combat pinion angle change.I haven't paid attention to know if the mounting boss exist on the aut trucks.It usess a Yellow bilstein f4 be5 1987 w1

Yes, the mounting boss is there (at least it is on my 15).
I asked about the absence of this kicker shock when I first bought my truck (because it is pictured in the brochure) and someone (probably here) told me they only came on the Hemi trucks. But it seems logical that a manual would benefit from it is as well, regardless of engine type.
 
I have the Aisin. 342s.. Pulling 13500 up steep grades. In the first two or 3 gears I do get the shudder...driveline, torque converter Or trans?.
 
Launch Shudder...

At the end of the day after the angles are all correct you have to replace that squishy soft center bearing mount with poly. Put a camera on the driveshaft and watch it jump 1-2" during Launch Shudder due to the soft rubber around the center bearing. Even a 'low power' hopped up GM 6.2 will do this with a trailer load so it's really not because of all the power but it's damn near impossible to control with throttle application. The downside we noticed is a high speed driveshaft vibration at 75MPH. YMMV.

Your angles change from loaded and unloaded and can cause this issue.

Poly center bearings and more info on angles here:
http://www.iedls.com/Center-Support-Bearings/Pickup-Trucks.asp

So, would a 1 pc driveline fix this? THANKS!!
 
So, would a 1 pc driveline fix this? THANKS!!

We were traveling 299 between Redding and the coast. Lots of road construction. We would have to stop on grades of 8 percent. Starting out the truck would shudder, or chatter. This truck has 3000 miles. Trailer is 3610 Montana with a dry weight of 12200. I thought it was a transmission issue. Or maybe, the 3:42 axle. So this shudder won't hurt anything?. Question 2: I tow in tow/haul mode. Should I be using the -+ on the gear selector?. If I leave the selector in D the transmission hunts a lot in mountain terrain. It will up shift from 3 to 4 then back to three again..thanks....
 
Yes lock it in the lower gear so is does not hunt. Snoking

I'm thinking it's the 3:42 gearing..I think my mega cab is a single piece drive shaft. I notice the shudder when the rims are below 1500 rpms. A 373 would probably be a better choice, however, you can't get a 3:73 in a megacab...after market to do front and rear swap is about 1200....
 
I'm thinking it's the 3:42 gearing..I think my mega cab is a single piece drive shaft. I notice the shudder when the rims are below 1500 rpms. A 373 would probably be a better choice, however, you can't get a 3:73 in a megacab...after market to do front and rear swap is about 1200....

I was answered your question on hunting between 3rd and 4th gears. Changing gears will most not likely fix the U joint issue that causes drive line stutter.

SNOKING
 
I was answered your question on hunting between 3rd and 4th gears. Changing gears will most not likely fix the U joint issue that causes drive line stutter.

SNOKING
I don't know, but the owner's manual called it torque converter slippage...I just checked it out..they said it could affect transmission longevity. The hunting of out are right, Don shift to a lower gear.
 
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