Off Roading Good tow strap?

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In preparation for some cross country trips I'm wondering what style tow strap (Rope, webbed strap?) and length would be good for all round emergency use.



I see a ton of different styles with many types of ends, loops, hooks etc.



Let me know... . and where to buy on-line?



Ron W.
 
Tow straps are great as long as you have the right kind of shackle to attach it. It needs to swivel in any direction and shouldn't be over itself. Looping it thru itself or putting it around something wears it REAL fast. I broke one this week towing out a Chevy :{
 
Find a Tractor supply store. They sell MANY different sizes of tow strap. I have been using a 3"wide 27'(I think it's 27') 30,000 lb. with LOOPED ends. I dislike the hooked ends... as the hooks themselves are usualy NOT rated as the same strength as the straps.



I have 2... one of them has been between a powersmoke and an older dodge powerwagon... unfortunately the ferd had to pull out the dodge. (I did not have my cummins at this time or I wold have pulled the PW out. The dodge was sitting on 36" swampers and they were UNDER the mud. It took the ferd 4 full throttle snatches with a running start to get it out... and the strap held up fine and I'm still using it today.

They have larger straps too... I believe they sell one rated @ 50,000 lbs and they also sell several different size clevis' (we call them clothespins)

OR you could hunt some army surplus stores and locate a TANK STRAP. Problem is that these suckers weigh in at over 100 lbs BUT they were used to pull out tanks!
 
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I agree with XJSuperman - Looped ends and use a clevis or shackle. I personally believe that you can't have too heavy a strap. When you're throwing some momentum into that strap, you don't want it to break like a giant rubber band. In my truck, I carry two logging chains, a 30,000 pound strap, and numerous clevises, 1 clevis with chain hook (for using the strap with a chain), and 1 really huge shackle (tank pulling size). Also, bear in mine that most states require a yellow flashing warning light on the vehicle if you are extracting vehicles along a road way. I know in MN, if you are caught pulling a car from a ditch and do not have an amber light, you CAN get ticketed if the cop is in the mood. Furthermore, if you are being the good samaritan and pulling someone else out, LET THEM HOOK THE STRAP TO THEIR OWN VEHICLE!!!!. You can stand there and advise, but make sure the final decision on where you are hooking to their vehicle is their decision. That way, when you rip their bumper off, they are less likely to blame you. Basically, C. Y. A.



Tractor Supply of a similar store would be my vote too, but if you want to shop online, check out these links

:

http://www.warn.com/truck/accessories/kit_camouflagebag.shtml



http://www.talcospecialties.com/web6.htm



http://www.tellico4x4.com/recoverygear/
 
I agree with the two posts above. You can never have too big a strap. Hook-ended straps are typically very light duty; not suitable for use with our trucks.



Making the other guy hook up is a good idea. However if its your strap, give the guy input or you'll be buying a new strap because of his ignorance.
 
Thanks for the good info; 30,000lbs never would have thought I would need that strong a strap... . :eek:



Off to do some shopping.



Ron W.
 
On a safety note, be careful where you hook up to. The British Army only allow the use of Kinetic (snatch) ropes on armoured vehicles, due to the danger when things go wrong. I once saw the tow hitch let go on a bottomed out Land Rover, it went through the back window and split the roof of the Range Rover that was snatching it. By some miracle no one was hurt. The effect is a large lump of metal fired by an even larger slingshot



:--)



Cheers,

Cam
 
We would put a blanket or the like at both ends and the middle. And I use the 30,000 lb strap with my jeeps as well... . 30,000 lbs is the weakest strap I will use.

I had a tow hook come off and hit my ankle about 15 mos ago. They ran their strap around one hook and anchored it on another. . so the strap was pulling on the hook like a slingshot. This persons jeep did not have strong enough bolts and it sheared them right off and the strap slingshotted the hook right into my ankle... I was 40 ft away and it hit me hard enough to knock me over and I was unable to walk for a week... had it been a few inches higher I still would not be walking on my own foot AND if it were a few feet higher I'd most likely be dead... no I am not exaggerating. You can NEVER be too careful with recovery of any vehicle.
 
The rule of thumb I've always used is to have a strap rated for at least 3 times the weight you will be pulling. I carry a 40k strap in my truck. Also I make sure the ends are doubled and reinforced and make sure the stitching is good. One brand I haven't had good luck with is Keeper - I've never had one break but they've freyed pretty easily. The strap I have currently is made by a company that makes straps for helicopter cranes. A good strap isn't cheap - mine cost me just over $100 for a 40 ft strap. It has a lifetime warranty covers it for everything except if you cut it.
 
TDR , What a great site..... I learned alot about towing by reading your posts, better than the trial and error method. I know I would have made some of those mistakes.



XJSuperman,



I'm heading down towards Ocala with my wife and our new truck camper. I think we will visit Silver River park and Rock Crusher park. Are they decent places for camping?



Ron W.
 
Ron. . Silver River State park is very nice. We only live about 5 miles from there. It's clean and fairly quiet.

As for RockCrusher... I'm not familiar with it. If you'll let me know about where it's at I'll do some investigating fro you.
 
I always thought there must be a safer way than loading up a strap. Its bad enough to break something but the misile effect has killed many people. A Few years back a guy around here was killed with a trailer ball and a strap. Never ever pull on a ball even just a little tug. This guy was just trying to get a schoolbus moving on an icy low spot in the road. I'm sure this was quite memorable for the kids on the buss.



If have been advised that a two inch strap can best be attached to a receiver hitch by putting the end in the reciever and putting the pin through it. Does this sound right? I not asking a 2" is enough I am wondering if the attachment method is ok. Assuming the hitch is worthy.



From what I have read I think people are typically killed by stuff that breaks off on the ends (bumpers, tow hooks, chains, shackles, etc. ) not the straps breaking themselves. But I would be interested in hearing more experiences from members.
 
I currently have a 4 inch strap that the ends are doubled so they are 2 inches wide. I put that in the reciever with a heavy duty hitch pin and have never had a problem. I am not sure if this is an accepted method but it works and the way I see it the pin can break but unless the reciever comes apart from the truck you shouldn't have a projectile from that attachment. I ALWAYS tie a blanket or jacket around the strap too.
 
Buy at least a 3"/30,000lb rated strap. I have pesonally broken 2 2" straps with my Toyota pick ups when pulling other Toys out.

I have always used Keeper branded straps but others are on the market now. When I bought the one I have now, I got it from Summit. Yes, the speed and car supply house. They had the best price on it anywhere. I think ProComp or Explorer are two other brand straps I have seen.

I connect to my CTD with a pintle hitch. I also have a double hooked 3' length of 3/8" chain to connect to the vehicle being pulled if they don't have a solid connection readily available.



Glenn
 
I have a clevis hitch that goes in the 2" receiver. Looped end goes in and I drop a pin through it. Works real well. But usually when I pull a car out of a ditch, I use my chains and pull in low range first gear and ease them out. Less potential damage to everything. Momentum is what breaks stuff and sends things flying. Just ask Josh Peters. He put a chain through his windshield so hard it dented his dash. Since that, I don't like momentum, and furthermore, chains are not snatch straps! :)
 
I agree with everyone. What ever you do, no hooks on your strap. You could probably survive a flying strap, but not a flying hook or clevis. Always treat the item you are hooking to as a potential projectile. Use common sense and a good strap and you'll be fine. :)
 
Have any of you guys heard of or used Plasma Rope? I personally haven't used it, but have heard great things about it.



It's lighter, and takes up less room than straps, less expensive when comparing the same weight rating. You can also get it in bulk, or have it made any length you disire. Here is a link to check it out yourself... . http://www.masterpull.com/results.cfm?catid=360



Rob
 
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I use the winch rope from master pull, it is not the plasma type but the ultra high molecular weight poly proplene type. It is stronger than steel cable of the same width and have almost zero stretch, so if it breaks they tell me it just ffalls to the ground, no snap back. The newer plasma type is better but at quite a price. Another advantage the winch rope is much lighter than stell cable and our diesel rigs don't need any more weight up front! It floats too, making it easier to hook up in a stream.
 
I like the new winch ropes. . BUT I have heard (not seen) of them breaking... and they are ilke a strap. . when they break things start to fly. At least if a cable breaks it won;t fly very far... it will (usually) just break..... again though... I have only heard of them breaking. . never seen it first hand.
 
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