Gooseneck Hitches?

[BIG HAULERS]

I need to put a goose-neck hitch in my truck I know a lot of you pull so I was wondering what hitch most of you use. I need a compete setup rails and all. I have checked around town it seems 500 is the cheapest un-installed. Everyone gives the excuse because of the new frame rail design. To me this is high since i spend 250 on my 98. Any suggestion are appreciated.

 

[TCDiesel]

Gooseneck

I had made a custom build hitch, With a Atwood plate which sits on 1" steel supports that have cu-sit, that are wire fish and bolted to frame rails. at 44. 5 TDC. Most of the bolt inns are 48" plus which puts you to far ahead for a lot of equipment. Off road use is out of the question at 48" plus you will HIT your box sides. One member who has a car-hauler has posted his damage. A&R welding install it at a cost of $350. 00. TRAILER GVW 16K to 22K. GVW 25K plus regularly.

 

[roperteacher]

I had the Draw tight installed on my new 600. It cost about 500 for the parts, 250 labor. I have no idea how to do it myself so was at the mercy of the shop. I guess steel prices have gone up they said, and also the new body style . It needed to be custom ordered and delivered before Install. That figure did include a custom brake bok and a custom trailer plug in the bed of the truck... .

 

[DE Jeeper]

I put a PopUp brand gooseneck hitch and rail in my truck. It cost around $360 and I eassily installed it myself. It just required a drill, hole saw and basic hand tools. I shouldn't take more then a couple of hours for the install. Also, this hitch was one of the most perfect fit of an aftermarket part that I have ever intalled.

 

[wyosteve]

You can get a B&W turnover ball on ebay for $295 shipping included. Install yourself. About a 1. 5 hr. project.

 

[KS_Cummins]

I got a B&W turnover ball installed for $385. 00 plus sales tax here in Kansas. I've had them in two trucks now and am a very happy customer.

 

[PPeters]

I'm running one of these on my '92.



www.unagoose.com



Works great. Drill 4. 5" hole in bed, new design for the hydro frame uses clamping style end plates (no frame drilling). Gonna reuse my cross tube in the new 600 when it delivers, just ordered the end plates.



Pat

 

[SRadke]

Mine is made by Diamond hitch but similar deal as above. Advantage here is no relaese handle in the wheel well.



-Scott

 

[ksadz]

B&W Turnover paid $350 plus $135 for the install. They charged $45 to install a plug in one of the bed walls. Might seem high but I feel better having them do it.



I think the basic GN balls are rated the same. The different companies have different accessories like GN extenders and 5th wheel attachments that may be a factor for you.

 

[BIG HAULERS]

thanks a lot yall have been a great help

 

[Wolffman]

i have the unagoose on my 03 and had one on my 2000 model and they work perfect. I have pulled in excess of 30,000lbs with it with out a bit of trouble and the ball pulls out real easy with out any levers to clog up. I won't ever use another gooseneck as long as they are making them. I would recommend them to anyone and I installed it myself takes about 1. 5 hours.

 

[bpenrod]

Wolfman,

Did the clamp style ends interfere with anything on your truck? I was wondering about lines running on the inside of the web or anything. Other than that it looks like a great setup!

Bill

 

[Fred Swanson]

I've got the B&W TurnoverBall, and it is easy to install. Nothing special needed but the 4 1/4 inch holesaw. Everything mounts up perfect.

 

[DPKetchum]

B&W turnover ball. Got prices as high as $1200. I paid $585. 00 including a Reese brake controller and plug in the bed. Installed. Waited on it took about 2. 5 hours to do all. Got storys like bed has to be COMPLETELY removed and such.

 

[bpenrod]

Does anyone with the B&W have the mopar wheel well loners installed? I'm wondering if they will interfere with the release lever??



Bill

 

[stick]

Bill:

Iv'e got the liners on mine. Had to make an extension to get it outside the liner'

Stick

 

[Peter Campbell]

Or use the hole saw from the "bed cut" to make a hand hole in the liner at the right location. The bed does not need to be removed. For the third gen removal of a small triangular piece of the bed to sidewall weld flange allows the angle iron and 1 x 2 steel to be passed through. Need a chainfall or a rope to the cieling to lift the plate. you would need to be a strong contortioist to hold the plate lined up with the bolts without some help. With the driveshaft, differetial pumpkin, exhaust and fuel tank all put in the way- just for this job!

 

[bpenrod]

Stick / Peter,

Thanx for the valuable input. That make me look at the Unagoose even closer since it'e locking mechanism does not require a rod into the wheel weel. The link is further back on this thread if anyone wants to look at it.



Bill

 

[wyosteve]

My tip fwiw. Since I couldn't get mine in the garage or anywhere to have something overhead to hoist the plate up, I took a 2x4, laid it across the bed rails and then used a ratchet strap (like you use to tie down a load) to lift and hold the plate in place. Worked slick.

 

[Wolffman]

bpendrod,



The clamps don't interfere with anything at all and are real easy to install. They take advantage of a rise in the frame at that location so the clamps can't slide forward at all and they get plenty tight enough to where they are not going anywhere at all. I have never had a B&W, I hear they are great but will never find out because I love my unagoose too much.