GooseNeck mounting ?

[SteveAnsley]

I have a '98 that has a Draw-Tite Remov-A-Ball gooseneck installed.

http://www.hidden-hitch.com/prod.asp?pc=6300



It's installed in what I assume is the most standard way. The plate is on top of the corrugated bed using the shims so the plate does not compress the sandwiched trucked bed.



I know it's not much, (yes, I can be a bit anal ) but, I'd like it if the plate did not stick up the 1/4" above the bed.



Any reason I couldn't scribe the bed along the perimeter of the plate, remove the hitch and cut out the bed so the plate can be bolted directly to the cross member w/out the shims and not have the corrugated panel sandwiched in-between?



I don't have access to a plasma cutter. I was planning on using a pneaumatic grinder/cutting wheel for as much area as possible and then slowly 'struggle' w/ a Roto-Zip for cutting the corners.

Is this totally stupid?

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

The gooseneck hitch we have on a company Cheby dually DM has a round hole for the ball which flips over when not in use. And there are two square "u-bolts" for the safety chains which recess flush to the bed when not in use. This means the hitch frame is under the bed and all you see is the round hole (or ball) and the flush safety chain attachments. I will look and see exactly what make it is tomorrow.



Gee, I like flatbeds for hauling trailers

 

[JRMora]

The gooseneck hitch we have on a company Cheby dually DM has a round hole for the ball which flips over when not in use. And there are two square "u-bolts" for the safety chains which recess flush to the bed when not in use. This means the hitch frame is under the bed and all you see is the round hole (or ball) and the flush safety chain attachments. I will look and see exactly what make it is tomorrow.

It's either a Uniball or a B&W Turnover Ball.



Don't have Uniball's website, but B&W's is www.turnoverball.com.



In the end, I'd change the hitch before hacking out a large portion of the bed. It'd proabaly change the stiffness of the bed significantly plus you'd probably never get a good fit. If a 1/4" would make your anal tendencies come out, I'd bet 1/8"-1/4" gaps all around your hitch plate would be worse.



BTW, I've seen the turnover ball hitch for well under $300, both locally and on the internet.



Juan

 

[LesStallings]

Get one of the spray in bedliner companies to put a thick coat on the bed, masking off the hitch. They can build up the layer fairly thick and reduce or match the height.

 

[SteveAnsley]

Get one of the spray in bedliner companies to put a thick coat on the bed, masking off the hitch. They can build up the layer fairly thick and reduce or match the height.

That was my first thought. Already have what appears to a thin quote of Line-X in there. Stopped at a Rhino dealer the other week. if I do that I'll need to keep w/ the same 'type' if liner (ie: hard as opposed to the rubber Rhino style).



My intent is to keep cost at a minimum. That's when I thought about cutting the bed for a inset cutout for the plate and then using a good gaulk/sealer to give it a finished look. Would be a little nicer when loading certain items in the truck and not have to worry about snagging the hitch as bad as it is now.

 

[SCosgriff]

Get the B&W, if you pay yourself minimum wage to hack up your bed or pay someone to spray it you will pay for the hitch easy. Bolts right on in a couple hours leaving bed flat when gooseneck ball is out or turned over. Only leaves a 4 inch hole in the bed of your truck.