Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Got boost issues after P7100 tuning.

[JGheen]

Well, I figured I would start posting it here since nobody really responds on the "Truck 911" forum.

Anyway, I just did my 3K GSK install this weekend, moved my Banks Otto mind cal plate all the way forward(towards the front of the truck), and turned my AFC star wheel about 25-30 times( I lost count cuz it was hard to turn with a screw driver through that hole but that is about how many times I heard clicks and I turned it towards the engine). I am running the Banks Twin Ram intake on my engine since it was part of the package I got from Banks. The Banks stuff has been on there for about a year, I just now got my 3K gov and did some tuning. So after my inital install and test drive I, it had major get up and go in second gear but when I shifted to third and fourth it was low on boost about 8 psi and it didn't pull very hard, if not worse than before. So, I took it on a grade that same test drive and even in fifth gear climbing the opposite side of the Grapevine, down here in So. Cal it had low boost and seemed to be even slowing as I was driving up the hill

So I replaced the intake gaskets and used silicone on the 8 bolts holding the intake down, checked all the other lines. Took it for another test drive and STILL low on boost pipnning the throttle in third and fourth. Second gear still had a mean acceleration.

So then I thought the AFC line from the manifold was cracked, so I replaced it with some new nuts, ferrules and some good vinyl tubing. I also replaced the clamped part of the wastegate actuator line going across the engine, new clamps and fresh hose.

Took it for another test drive and STILL low on boost, not pulling very hard and getting it good in second gear. I though I saw a little more boost, about 2 psi from the gauge when I was stomping the throttle in the test drive, so I was curious about that. But I am just absolutley out of ideas for the whole thing. The fuel shutdown solenoid still fluxes properly, pulling the lever all the way up when I start the engine. I just don't know.

So, please throw your advice and opinions at me, I appreciate it very much. Thanks.

 

[SmokinU]

I'd be willing to bet that the governor lever needs to be re-adjusted. I had the exact same problem as you after the 3K GSK install.



Brandon

 

[bmoeller]

http://piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by SmokinU

I'd be willing to bet that the governor lever needs to be re-adjusted. I had the exact same problem as you after the 3K GSK install.



Brandon

Well, how did you fix it??? From that next post on the Peirs website it looks to me like i have to remove the pump to adjust the lever, if that is the issue. Please educate me on this. Does the engine have to be in a certain position? Can I just romove that cover on the back of the pump and "feel" my way in to the adjustment stud?? It seems to me like that would be a PITA!

 

[Jim Fulmer]

You don't have to remove the pump you just have to remove the inspection plate on the back, if you will put your plate back some the Gov arm will hit it again.



With your AFC off so you can see down in the pump and the fuel shut off up advance the throttle with your hand while looking down into the pump and you will see the Gov arm comes up and hits the plate, if it's close to the nose of the plate or goes under then you either have to re-adjust the arm or move the plate back so it hits just above the nose of the fuel plate. I'd move the plate back to 3/4 forward and try that first, but do the look see at the same time!



Jim

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by Jim Fulmer

You don't have to remove the pump you just have to remove the inspection plate on the back, if you will put your plate back some the Gov arm will hit it again.



With your AFC off so you can see down in the pump and the fuel shut off up advance the throttle with your hand while looking down into the pump and you will see the Gov arm comes up and hits the plate, if it's close to the nose of the plate or goes under then you either have to re-adjust the arm or move the plate back so it hits just above the nose of the fuel plate. I'd move the plate back to 3/4 forward and try that first, but do the look see at the same time!



Jim

But if I want to leave the plate where it is, can't I jut remove the plate on the back and adjust the lever to hit the edge of the plate?? Is it a PITA to see where the lever needs to be??

 

[Cooker]

Originally posted by JGheen

But if I want to leave the plate where it is, can't I jut remove the plate on the back and adjust the lever to hit the edge of the plate??

Yes, this is exactly what the adjustment is for. I think Jim was just suggesting to try moving the plate first to see for sure if that solves your problem.

 

[JGheen]

Moved the plate back.

Well, I moved the plate back to the original position this morning and it had even less boost and less get up and go in all gears. WTF!!!??? Man, now i am all confused on what could be happening. Please help!!

 

[TPCDrafting]

Did ya do a check see while slding the plate back?

R. ebel and I did the gov lever adjustment on mine a few weeks back. HUGE improvement.

Do Not need to pull the pump.

pull off the AFC housing

turn on ignition, make sure shut off solenoid is all the way up

twist throttle linkage so that you can see the gov lever come up to meet the plate. It's not hard to see.

Like said above, if the plate is hitting at or near the bottom or under, you need to adjust.

Pull the cover off the back. I couldn't get the screws loose using a screw driver, so I just got on the side of them with some vise grips and they popped loose no prob.

Find the correct screw lock nut to loosen, (look at Piers pics)

Turn the screw (I think) out a few turns, twist the throttle linkage again, look at the gov. lever to make sure it's moving up. With the #11 plate I put the gov lever up about 1/2 way on the lower ramp.

Make sure to tighten that lock nut down good before buttoning it up.

Made a big difference, it jumps right up to 30 psi now and big time SOP HP gain.

FYI I set my plate about 1/2 way forward for trailer towing and egt reasons.

 

[JGheen]

Originally posted by TPCDrafting

Did ya do a check see while slding the plate back?

R. ebel and I did the gov lever adjustment on mine a few weeks back. HUGE improvement.

Do Not need to pull the pump.

pull off the AFC housing

turn on ignition, make sure shut off solenoid is all the way up

twist throttle linkage so that you can see the gov lever come up to meet the plate. It's not hard to see.

Like said above, if the plate is hitting at or near the bottom or under, you need to adjust.

Pull the cover off the back. I couldn't get the screws loose using a screw driver, so I just got on the side of them with some vise grips and they popped loose no prob.

Find the correct screw lock nut to loosen, (look at Piers pics)

Turn the screw (I think) out a few turns, twist the throttle linkage again, look at the gov. lever to make sure it's moving up. With the #11 plate I put the gov lever up about 1/2 way on the lower ramp.

Make sure to tighten that lock nut down good before buttoning it up.

Made a big difference, it jumps right up to 30 psi now and big time SOP HP gain.

FYI I set my plate about 1/2 way forward for trailer towing and egt reasons.

No I didn't see any lever that you guys were talking about. I bet it is out of adjustment. So what do you mean "twist" the throttle linkage?? Do you mean just hold it wide open and look down the AFC housing to see the lever??

So with the ignition on, the fuel shutdown solenoid all the way up, throttle wide open, I should be able to see this lever?? And as for the removal of the cover on the back to do that adjustment, there are just two bolts that hold it on right?? It looks like it is a complete PITA to do that adjustment, am I right??

 

[mikel]

I find it easer not to turn the ignition on, but to take the fuel solenoid off as you remove the AFC housing.



Reach down and pull up on the fuel shutdown lever with your hand (the piece that is moved by the fuel solenoid that you took off earlier), then move the throttle linkage in the direction of full throttle. The shutdown lever *MUST* be in the up or "run" position or you will get the wrong results.



As you do this, look down inside the p-7100 past the fuel plate and into it's guts. You may need a light, but you will see the lever you are looking for move up from the rear of the pump and either touch or go under the fuel plate.



If you need to adjust it then see the link above to Piers site.



Yeah, it's a PITA to get in there and adjust it, mostly due to cramped quarters.



Mike

 

[JGheen]

Well, I am gonna try something that Mark @ Peirs told me to do. I told him that during the GSK install one of the springs measured differently than the other. One measured like . 040" and the other measured like . 055". He told me that could be the issure right there being that the springs are compressed @ different heights. I am going to back out the one that is higher first and see what happens, hopefully making them the same height will fix this issue. I guess those springs are really sensitive to changes.

 

[TPCDrafting]

No, you don't have to twist the throttle wide open. Just enough for the gov lever to move forward enough to contact the plate. Make sure the shut off solenoid is all the way up or you won't see the lever at all. I turn the key on to free up a hand when twisting the throttle so I have one to scratch my head with.

Yes it is not a terribly easy adjustment only due to lack of space and you have to go by feel, you can't see the adjustment screw at all when you have your hand down in there feeling for it.

There are only two screws that hold on the back cover. The heads of the screws protrude enough that they have holes through the side for the factory to install a "no tamper" wire twist on. This enlarged protrusion worked out nice for me to grab the screws with a set of vise grips to crack them open and to re-tighten them when finished. Be sure the rubber gasket comes off with the access panel and goes back on with it.



I would suggest going with what Piers/staff said to try first. They are the experts.

 

[JGheen]

Well, I did what Mark said to do first and it is still kind of operating funny. I backed the one tightening nut off the higher governor spring to match the other @. 040". Took it for a short test drive and first off it seemed to idle better, like stock almost, so that was an improvement. Next I took it out on a short road here by my work and got on it what I could and it still seemed to build boost real slow with still a lower peak, about 6-8 psi. lower than before all this tuning. Smoke is not an issue, not excessive, nor too little. Just right IMO. It did seem to have more pull in the upper RPM range, due to the spring change, I guess; but I was still slower RPM acceleration and the boost was climbing just as slow as the revs?? Not sure what is happeneing now, but going to call Peirs again.

BTW, I didn't have time to pull the AFC housing off and check the lever, but this morning I had moved it back to the original position it was in before with maybe a little more or less than . 010" from the stock scribed position. So the lever has to be hitting the plate, cuz I did nothing to tamper with the govenor lever and the plate is back where it used to be. Is it just slow cuz of the Banks Otto mind plate I have in there, and it is not the hottest plate out there for this set up?? Maybe a #10 would give me the improvement I am looking for???

 

[JGheen]

Called Mark back

Ok, I talked ot Mark again , and he said my governor lever needs to be adjusted. Well, I told him that I really didn't want to do that and are there any other alternatives? He told me that I can junk that Banks plate I have which is not a very forgiving plate, and go with a #10 plate which is very forgiving and I should not have to adjust the lever with that plate. Anyone know this for sure?? I know Mark is a very smart guy, but I thought I would throw that question out there for those experienced with this issue. I don't want to spend the $200 for their kit, cuz I don't need the other parts that come in the kit. So if anyone out there has #10 plate they could sell me that would be great!! Thanks

 

[DSiemens]

So what did Piers say?

 

[JGheen]

You must have been writing when I was, check the 14th or 15th post on the first page.

 

[DSiemens]

I have the 10 plate in a 95. It is very forgiving, but it will need to be adjusted (slid forward) for best results.

 

[mikel]

I'm running a #10 too. Only had it about a week, but so far I like it.



Mike

 

[MLee]

Plate

Could he just pull the plate for a run to check and see if he built boost?? and see if the lever is causing the hang up?

how about RE-grinding the plate to the #10 configuration, or close to it > just a suggestion. or,, just a bad suggestion.

Marv.