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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Got fuel to injectors but wont start

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) ARP studs

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My aftermarket carter pump finally failed after 11 years and truck quit. Installed new pump, bled injector pump (got fuel) bled injectors and got fuel but truck refuses to start. No codes on code reader but odometer gave me the p1694 code. Any suggerstions on what my next step should be? My truck is a 2001 HO with numerous upgrades and has been running flawlessly for over a 100K miles.
 
How much did you crank it over? Even after getting fuel to injectors you might still have to crank it over a few times but it shouldn't take a bunch. I assume you did the "bump the starter" trick to cycle the lift pump at least 3-4 times to make sure everything is primed at least to the injection pump. Once it is primed it doesn't take that much cranking, bleeding the lines to the injectors isn't that necessary. After priming the lift pump I just start cranking, usually starts after 3-4 rounds of cranking it 15 seconds at a time.
 
Make sure the batteries are fully charged, then HOLD THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL TO THE FLOOR while cranking.



Good luck,



John L.
 
I assume you looked up the code already if not. P1694- No bus messages from companion module. I would look for loose or corroded connection to the ECM or a bad ground. There is a possibility the ECM is bad.
 
If you truly do have fuel to the injectors and it ran before the lift pump failed you will probably need to crank a bit more. You do know to start it you must bleed at least 3 injectors to get it to fire. At that point it may run a bit rough till the other injectors are free of air
 
Does the truck show any signs of life like the others said may just need to crank it enough. That would be nice but since you listed the code I went that route. You will need a DRB Scan tool to go through and eliminate possible causes. Heres all the causes listed in the order. 1. DRB not display operational. 2. CCD bus(+) circuit open. 3. CCD bus(-) circuit open. 4. ECM ground circuit open. 5. Engine control module. This is about all I know about this since I have never encountered this problem. I wish I could help more and if anything changes I will keep an eye on this thread and try to help. Good luck.
 
Going to try bleeding injectors again this weekend after I put all the parts back on that I took off to examine the ECM. Hope it works this time. I have cranked enough to recharge batteries twice. Disconnected negative cables two days ago to make sure computer is completely brainwashed when I try again. I thank everyone for all the help so far.
 
I'm not even close to an expert but it's possible to hot wire a VP44 which basically eliminates everything except the engine & VP44. It'll only idle but you'll know if it's ok. If that works then something else has gotten unplugged or failed. Even something like the CPS (crankshaft/camshaft position sensor) can keep it from running.
 
I'm not even close to an expert but it's possible to hot wire a VP44 which basically eliminates everything except the engine & VP44. It'll only idle but you'll know if it's ok. If that works then something else has gotten unplugged or failed. Even something like the CPS (crankshaft/camshaft position sensor) can keep it from running.



Those would set a dtc... ... ... .
 
Went out and put all the parts back on it, hooked up batteries, had daughter crank it over while I bled injectors again and still no luck. Will pull crankcase position sensor today and see what's up. Are there any tests for it to make sure its working correctly?
 
Did you replace the injection pump yourself? Are you sure you set the timing correctly when you put the pump back in? Given the 1694 code I would be leaning more towards ecm related. Are all your grounds in good cond? If I remember correctly, there is a ground ddirectly from the ecm to the battery, double check and make sure all are clean and tight. You may need to get ahold of a diagnostic tool to further diagnose it.
 
Did you try the No Start Tests I posted a link to? That should at least get you close to the source of the problem.
When you put the pump in did you put the key that came with it and did you put it in the right way? They have specific offsets that are calibrated to the pump individually and you can't swap them. But usually when that happens it will still start but not run that well.
 
Well here it is. After replacing fuel tank sending unit, pusher pump and injector pump, checking all wiring, etc. bleeding injectors no less than 15 times----it was my ECM that had gone south for the winter. New ECM and truck runs like a champ.
 
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