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Gov spring question - Moved to correct forum

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A few questions about a 93

1992 Ram 250

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Buddy just picked up a 12 v and had to replace a gasket on the pump. This pump is only 6 mos old but the previous owner did something to one of the lines, whole different story, anyway he has the cover off to replace the gasket and we're wondering what gov spring he could get to help make a bit more power. It's all stock right now . . . :-laf But not for long if me and baby brother Joe Mc have anything to say. Ah, how bout this fuel plate sliding forward thing we've heard about? Obviously we're 12v virgins and have often wanted to play with a 12v so our buddy Dan having this 12v is our chance to play.



Thanks



Joe Mc - from Kelly's PC
 
You really should have asked this in the 2nd gen forum. P-pumps are way different than the VE used on the 1st gen 12 valves. I know governor springs are about $120, and they are in the roughly 1" sized port on the side of the pump. You have to do 1 set, then turn it over 1/2 a turn, and do the other set.

If you just loosen the plate, and slide it ahead, you'll see! I hope you put guages in already, you'll need them!
 
Buddy just picked up a 12 v and had to replace a gasket on the pump. This pump is only 6 mos old but the previous owner did something to one of the lines, whole different story, anyway he has the cover off to replace the gasket and we're wondering what gov spring he could get to help make a bit more power. It's all stock right now . . . :-laf But not for long if me and baby brother Joe Mc have anything to say. Ah, how bout this fuel plate sliding forward thing we've heard about? Obviously we're 12v virgins and have often wanted to play with a 12v so our buddy Dan having this 12v is our chance to play.



Thanks



Joe Mc - from Kelly's PC





Sorta depends on how much fun you wanna have. They come in 3K, 4K, and 5K RPM varieties. Sliding the plate forward will give you more fuel. Different plate profiles will vary when the fuel comes in along the rack travel. Advancing the timing will give you more power, too. Much above stock performance will also give you a dead stock clutch or automatic transmission. It's also advisable to install gauges before starting to play. That'll give you a little warning about your head gasket failing or your pistons melting.
 
Archives-------READ-----READ----READ_______LEARN!!!!!!!!

What year 12 valve? Do the Dowel pin asap. Also read up on that little "pita"
 
Its a 93, auto, std cab, long bed, L/S rear drive only. We're working on getting him gages first and foremost, also membership. We're familiar with KDP, just trying to learn more about the 12v pumps and "Easy+Cheap" power mods. So far, muffler gone and pump back in runs smooth and strong. I think its just over 100k.
 
If it's a '93 it has the VE pump and the govenor springs are not springs it's just a spring and it's under $50. You take the top lid off the VE pump and it replaces the stock one in there... pretty easy to do.
 
If it's a '93 it has the VE pump and the govenor springs are not springs it's just a spring and it's under $50. You take the top lid off the VE pump and it replaces the stock one in there... pretty easy to do.

Thanks,
So replacing the spring merits nothing in the way of power increase = basically $50 for nothing, if the spring is good now its not needed?

Kelly - you reading this stuff?
 
The spring is about $16 to $20 at the fuel shop. It increases fueling (power) all across the band, and raises the defuel point. Stock defuels at about 2600, the 366 spring raises that to 28-2900 rpms.
 
Kelly has a spring coming from ??? that's supposed to increase the fueling range up to 3200 rpm.



Now what about this "sliding the fuel plate" business:confused:? Where is it? What does it do (duh, I hear it makes more power) but how does doing this make it make power? And, do VE pumps have this mysterious (to me at this point) plate? If anyone could send a picture and simple instruction that would be greatly appreciated. :eek:
 
Kelly has a spring coming from ??? that's supposed to increase the fueling range up to 3200 rpm.



Now what about this "sliding the fuel plate" business:confused:? Where is it? What does it do (duh, I hear it makes more power) but how does doing this make it make power? And, do VE pumps have this mysterious (to me at this point) plate? If anyone could send a picture and simple instruction that would be greatly appreciated. :eek:



VE pumps don't have a plate like the P-pumps. There is not a rack to modify travel as the VE is a rotary pump not an inline. All the fuel rates increases are done internal with a governor.



Gov spring is a start on mods, there are other internal mods to help fuel flow and of course injectors. Take a look at the FAQ forum at the top of the forum page. There are excellent articles in there with lots of pictures, advice, and experiences.



Good luck and ask away when you need clarification.
 
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The whole fuel pump confusion started in the 1st post when he said "slide the plate". I guess we shoulda asked more questions sooner! :eek:

If you read the stickys, there's a ton of info. Like Cerb said, if you get confused, just ask!
 
Cool thanks guys. Like I said in the first post (I made from Kelly4463's computer) "obviously we're 12v virgins". So we / I appreciate your tolerance with the questions that don't make sense - P pump / VE pump never knew there was anything on a 12v other than a "P", learn something every day here. The TDR what a great place!
 
WOW... that was confusing! I had to reed it twice to figure out what pump in what truck ya'll was talking about... :-laf



:D
 
WOW... that was confusing! I had to reed it twice to figure out what pump in what truck ya'll was talking about... :-laf



:D



Sorry bout that - I guess it even had the Moderator confused as the post was moved twice.



Like I said we're 12V virgins so it was inevitable for us to screw up totally. :-laf:confused:
 
Sorry bout that - I guess it even had the Moderator confused as the post was moved twice.



Like I said we're 12V virgins so it was inevitable for us to screw up totally. :-laf:confused:





Yeah, you had us all chasing our tails. :-laf :-laf



However, if we, especially ME, had asked for a definitive make-model-year to start with... . well... ... . :eek:







Sometimes we are so busy solving problems and trying to help the easy things slip by. :rolleyes:
 
That $16 spring is what takes your truck from boyhood to manhood. It increases fueling across the band, increases the rpm range, and really brings out any other mod you do to it's fullest.



I did the whole bigger injectors, cranked the pump, put the fuel pin in, bigger turbo... they were all great wonderful improvements and all. Then I put the gov spring in and blew my transmission the next day.



Check out the stickies, like everyone said. I think we have one for turning up the pump... maybe... I'd have to look again. Either way, it's also been talked about in about 4000 past post before with detailed instructions. Pretty easy. Free power. Get an EGT gauge so you don't torch something. If you get stuck, we're all here to help.





As a side note, the 89-93s (all first gens) had the Bosch VE rotory pump. That's probably the main difference in the motors between the first gens and the second gen 12 valves.
 
That $16 spring is what takes your truck from boyhood to manhood. It increases fueling across the band, increases the rpm range, and really brings out any other mod you do to it's fullest.



Made 300/800 without a gov spring, might get over 350 HP now. :D



There are other ways to bring the engine power levels up, but, it is a cheap easy way to break more pieces. :-laf
 
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