Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Governor Lever Adjustment, wanting to slide #10 fwd

[Got Smoke?]

Ok well hopefully I'll be purchasing a Scotty II air system soon so I can slide my #10 plate full forward without melting my engine. :-laf



I've heard a lot said about Governor Lever Adjustment and I've looked at Piers tech page several times and it just looks to easy to be easy. Make sense



I have heard of what a improvement the lever adjustment to a new plate can mean so after moving mine forward surely it would need it



Anybody care to shed some light on this?

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Mark I would have to say that every truck needs to be checked and some need adjusting, sometimes when you slide a plate you will need to adjust the arm. There are a few things to note when doing it, when you remove the back cover make sure the gasket stays or you don't drop it, you don't necessarily have to remove the fuel filter(I never have) use a 1/4 drive, 10mm deep socket to loosen the nut then use a short small screwdriver(mine's like 3" long) of you turn the screw out too far it will come off and drop into the pump(reason to have a magnetic pickup tool) DON'T PANIC, if you can't get it from the back hole get it from the side hole for the gov springs. Keep this in mind for the position (think nose to nose) for the arm/plate location, not way below and not above. With the AFC off move the throttle forward till the arm smacks the plate to see were it hit's, some have said to do it with the fuel shut off open(run position) but I have found this to be no different.



Jim

 

[Dennis Garrett]

I've messed with/changed my plate several times over the years, and never toughed the lever adjustment. Then I put in the 3K GSK, and the truck would'nt get out of it's own way. I checked everything I could think of, then tried the lever adjustment, took it for a spin, and it ran like a rocket. For some reason, changing the gov. springs required the adjustment. Someone here suggested the lever was catching & hanging up on the nose of the plate, & I guess he was right. Never have figured out how gov. spring installation could have caused this, but somehow it must have.

 

[Tom C]

GotSmoke,



I just installed a #10 and 3GKS on my truck. lever did not need to be adjusted. I even tried the plate full forward (pegged the egt gage ) but the lever still did not need adjusting. even with the stock plate full forward the lever has always been on the same spot on the plate. If you do adjust your plate you might check the lever just to be safe.



What egt's are you getting? With the #10 in the middle I get to 1500 goosing it (1/2 to full throttle) going up a 5% grade at 75MPH. I tried the plate back 1/8" from middle and that made no difference. I have a 16cm housing on order. hope it helps.





Tom C

 

[Forrest]

If you use a regular 10mm socket, be careful pulling it out. It can catch on the pump housing & pull off the socket ... bloop.



A magnetic pickup tool on a flexible shaft ... nice thing to have before you start.

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

I just installed my #10 a couple weeks ago. I checked the adjustment at that time, and from what I've read, it looked OK, so I left it alone. Just tryin' to say, it may not need to be adjusted.



Jim

 

[egould]

Got Smoke,

I changed my #11 to a #10 on Sunday night and slid the 10 full forward to begin with. I took it

for a short test run and fried tires and clutch fiber:--) I called Piers Monday morning to check on the gov. lever adjustment and they said

to leave it alone if the truck was running well. Said that the #10's profile usually lines up well with the lever even when full forward. I,m no expert,but maybe this will help.

P. S. the truck is a 97 5 spd. was 215hp!!

 

[Reb.B]

Piers says that 90% of the 10 plates that he installs there is no adjustment required because of the catch plate design. The scotty II is a great filter but i'm almost positive that it is going to allow u to push the plate full forward with crazy egt's, ... especially with 300's

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Reb. B

The scotty II is a great filter but i'm almost positive that it is going to allow u to push the plate full forward with crazy egt's, ... especially with 300's

I don't understand what your mean in this sentence?

 

[Reb.B]

oops, i meant to say it is Not going to allow u to push the 10 plate full forward.

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Reb. B

oops, i meant to say it is Not going to allow u to push the 10 plate full forward.

Even drawing off both holes? Thought the Scotty II provided up to like 300*F reduction in EGT? Surely that would keep me out of the danger zone, or at least knocking on its front door and not out in the back yard

 

[Reb.B]

i'm not saying it won't help, but 300 degrees is not likely. I've run them before didn't see too much reduction. u'll peg that 1500 degree gauge no problem. it just might take a sec or so less. But the Scotty II does help and they sound really cool too.

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

The AFE Mega-cannon really helps, too. And if you like the sound of the turbo spooling up...



Jim

 

[egould]

I'm running an AFE intake and 4" exhaust and the egt's will get too hot way too quick if I'm not carefull with the right foot!My thermo probe is right behind the turbo in the cast iron exhaust elbow. I back off the throttle at 900 deg. but it would go much higher than that if I stayed in it.

Be carefull with that #10 slid forward

 

[nfox]

#10 plate

Where should the lever first strike the #10 plate?

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

With stock governor and rocker position, the deep region of the 10 will correspond to 1900-2400 rpm.



For a bit of history, I called the first ten "2x" because I made it from a spare #2. I sent it to Mark to put the profile into the computer and made another (2x') because I didn't want to go back in fueling while waiting for it to go into production. The lowest power plate for the 215 hp was the 12 (originally only the 2 was hand-stamped on the plate as there was no 2 to conflict with it). The next step Mark and I developed was the 11, a 50 hp increase. The 2x was for fun & games, but also gave at least another 50 hp, and I convinced Mark he should market it. 10 was the logical number to give the production plate. The predecessor to the 2x was the 1c (my third revision on the #1 Mark gave me) and even it was enough to kill clutches and give "full" egt We did about a hundred dyno runs, and spent many hours on the phone discussing ideas, while developing these plates.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Where should the lever first strike the #10 plate?



Nose to Nose with the fuel shut off in the up position, I've had it like that with the best responce.



Nfox, if you want to try that plate I'll send it to you, if you like it then you can buy it! Sound fair enough!



Jim



Joe Donnelly, how does the #4 work with a stick truck, I have a spare now!

 

[nfox]

#10 plate

I just recieved my #10 in the mail wednesday morning and going to install saturday and see if it is any better than the stock camplate? Thanks for the offer jim!!!Oo.

 

[Got Smoke?]

Re: #10 plate

Originally posted by nfox

I just recieved my #10 in the mail wednesday morning and going to install saturday and see if it is any better than the stock camplate? Thanks for the offer jim!!!Oo.

:--) HELL YES its better than the stock plate!

 

[JGK]

For those running into high EGTs after improving intake and exhaust aif flow, you might consider bumping the timing up to 16* to 16. 5*. That seems to shave a few more degrees off. A bud saw about a 100 degree improvment just going from about 15. 6 to 16. 2 on his timing.



-Jay