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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Governor Lever Adjustment, wanting to slide #10 fwd

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I just got a #10 plate yesterday. Planning on installing it this coming weekend.



If I put it in the stock position (not slid forward) will I see a significant improvement in performance?



What EGT's should I expect to see and how high can I go before I start to worry?



BTW, I had originally mounted my theromocouple for the EGT gauge in the EGR blockoff plate and the temps did not seem very responsive, it would stay around 450 degrees at 70mph unloaded and didn't change much when I accelerated. I finally moved the probe to the exhaust flange just before it goes into the turbo and what a difference! Now I reach 450 cruising down the street and can get up to 650 real quick when I hit 65mph and then it will settle back to about 575 when I cruise at 65-70mph. Much more responsive now.



Anyhow, I can't wait to get that plate in, I just don't want to get my hopes on how much difference I will feel in acceleration.
 
Bseg,



You will definately feel a difference, even in the stock position. After you get used to that, tap it forward . 020 or . 030 - it doesn't take much - for a new experience. Your auto will need attention before long, though.



Keep an eye on the EGTs - make sure your gauge is accurate. Temps climb fast in the upper revs (as you break over 100 mph on the freeway)!



-Jay
 
Bseg ... here's what you can expect:



http://www.tstproducts.com/power_kits_trial.htm





edit :)



here's another with the blanks filled in:



http://www.dieselpage.com/tstpk.htm





One interesting thing is the difference in hp of the #12, 11 & 10. In the 215 pump, the difference between the #12 & #11 is 50hp in the 215 pump & 20hp in the next line up. Now, extrapolate for a minute, using the #8, 6 & 5. "NR" in the 215 pump ... no kidding. :eek: I used the #8 in the 215 pump, centered. Low end was not that great, but hold on to your hat above that. Rear bumpers came up real fast.
 
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I'm seeing that the #10 usually dont need the gov lever adjusted, but what about the #11?

I'd like to know what I'm in for before starting a job.

TIA

Eric
 
I started with a #11, ran it for a while, and moved up to a #10. I have never adjusted the gov lever. Checked it with both plates, and it looked OK. Also had both plates slid forward, and still OK.



Jim
 
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JGK and Forrest, Thanks for the info. I have looked at the TST graph in the past, wish they would specify weather the hp meassured is at the flywheel or the rear wheels.



From what I understand the hp rating of the truck (97 with auto) is ~ 180 at the flywheel and ~ 140 or so at the rear wheels. I was told that the #10 plate will give ~ 220 to the rear wheels which seems like it should make a nice difference.



Once I get it in and see my EGT's I will definitely try sliding it forward.



I will post as soon as the job is done, hopefully with a good report:D
 
FWIW - My 1996 auto (180hp) dynoed at 170 RWHP stock. Depending on your placement of the #10, I don't think you will have a problem getting 220 RWHP out of it.
 
Now I know why I can still get into egt problems with my new hx 40 and BHAF! #10 slid forward all the way. I also checked my gov lever adjustment and it looked fine to me.
 
I'm seeing that the #10 usually dont need the gov lever adjusted, but what about the #11?

I'd like to know what I'm in for before starting a job.

TIA

Eric



Eric,



The #11 plate has a "nose" with an "upper lip" below it. The lever adjustment has you set the lever just slightly above the tip of the nose so it doesn't get hung up underneath it.



As I remember, the tip on the #10's "nose" is right at the bottom, and therefore is a little lower than the 11. There is nothing under it but air. So when I swapped my 11 out for my 10, no change was needed. I confirmed this with Al at PDR who said if the lever is roughly 1/8 inch above the tip on the #10, you're good to go.



It's been working great for my that way.



-Jay
 
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