Off Roading greaseless u-joints - yae or nae?

["Mad Max"]

Howdy peoples -

Building a 78 Ramcharger (not a diesel... yeah I know... but I got my Cummins project on deck ) and I am using the u-joints that don't require to be greased all ths time as they are self-contained and pre-greased. As I understand these are the same u-joints we've been using on our 1st gens forever, maybe the 2nd and 3rd gens as well(?), and I've never heard of anyone tossing a u-joint, ever. I gotta think these are just as good for my gasser, yeah? The 440's cranking about 300hp/500tq at the crank.

- Sam

 

[SEmerson]

You will get better life from the greesable one. Especaily if they see water alot.

 

[E7mack96]

There is a slight strength advantage to a greaseless u-joint due to no cross drilled grease feeds, but a greaseable one will outlive a lubed for life joint assuming it is greased regularly, and after trips into/under water.



If you break a joint from raw power alone, then you need bigger joints.

 

[Mad Bomber]

If you break a joint from raw power alone, then you need bigger joints.

From what I've heard if your putting the U-Joints in a cummins you should get non greaseable. With 1K of torque you might just break them. BTW the gassers I own do have the greaseable type.

 

[BWillard]

I ONLY use the solid joints, for strength you can't beat 'em! I DO check them at every other oil change to re-grease and check for damage before something has a chance to go wrong.



just my 0. 02!

 

[JGheen]

I just replaced all three of my rear u-joints and my carrier bearing. Got all the parts from Quad 4x4 and Dan the Gearman recommneded using the non-greaseable ones due to longer life and strength. He told me from his experience he has seen the non-greaseables last longer mainly because people tend to neglect the greasing of their greaseable ones. I had the greaseable types and the grease fitting fell off my rear u-joint and burned up from not having grease(obvioulsy ). I just went ahead and got a set of the non-greaseable so I wouldn't have to worry about the fittings coming out, nor greaseing them every 5000 miles.

The ones in my front axle have lasted forever(non-greaseable) and they have seen water, mud, hard tire spinning and they are still just as strong and tight as the day I bought the truck. Gotta love the strength of a Dana 60! Oo.

 

[cyborg]

I go with the zerked joints every time. There is nothing like regular maintenance to make something last.

I plan on drilling my rod ends for zerks also.

In my Ramcharger experience the weak links are the CV joint on the front shaft and the transfer case adapter. I would pull my front shaft off annually to make sure I had it lubed. If your putting serious power through it, the adapter cracks on the bottom where the base bolts to the mount.

I finally took a virgin adapter, pre-welded where it cracks and drilled the web to relieve stress.

 

[RustyJC]

The non-drilled u-joints are certainly stronger. If you do use a drilled u-joint, index it at installation such that the Zerk-fitting drilling is in compression, not in tension.



Rusty

 

[rivercat]

SAM dont forget if you are useing stock running gear the fittings behind the brake rotors!!!



If you take the wheel off there is a hole in it and if you rotate the hole to I "think" 12oclock there is a grease fitting that you can lube through the hole. The damage from not lubing these fittings is bad wobble in the steering and I think that the affected parts are not easily changed off of the front axle assembly. My friend parked a ramcharger at the young age of 68,000 miles with little if any other problems because he dident know about the fittings and wore out the steering knuckles. You know that dodge specific running gear is hard to find, for those years around my town it is.



just a helpful hint hopefully you frontend was greased often and doesn't have this problem already or you are useing a diffrent front end already sorry for the long post that is only partly related to the thread.

 

[cyborg]

SAM dont forget if you are useing stock running gear the fittings behind the brake rotors!!!



If you take the wheel off there is a hole in it and if you rotate the hole to I "think" 12oclock there is a grease fitting that you can lube through the hole. The damage from not lubing these fittings is bad wobble in the steering and I think that the affected parts are not easily changed off of the front axle assembly. My friend parked a ramcharger at the young age of 68,000 miles with little if any other problems because he dident know about the fittings and wore out the steering knuckles. You know that dodge specific running gear is hard to find, for those years around my town it is.



just a helpful hint hopefully you frontend was greased often and doesn't have this problem already or you are useing a diffrent front end already sorry for the long post that is only partly related to the thread.

I remember those on my 76 Ramcharger. 300k full time 4x4.



Same-o-same-o on the BR/BE dodges?

 

[JLEONARD]

I vote non greasable... . I know you guys are talking driveline U joints... . But I'm a steering shaft U joint engineer/supplier and I vote for non greasable...

Ours are lifetime... yes they really are.



Jay

 

[evldsl]

Yea for water nea for sand

 

[Pmaloney]

From what I have learned being a professional mechanic is that non-greasable u-joints like everyone has said are stronger and they use better seals (to keep the grease in, and other stuff out), a testament to the durability is my Chevy has 175,000 on the odometer and have never changed a u-joint. That should be enough in itself.