Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Grid heater fix

[Motorhead]

Pretty slick and simple idea Dean!!! You say the codes won't show up (except on checking for them) and it won't goof up the ECM? Chris

 

[Extreme1]

Is that oil pressure switch rated for that kind of current?

 

[WeirCummin]

Chris,

We have not seen a problem in the ECM or otherwise with any of the trucks that running around here. There are many codes that can be generated and never trigger the MIL. If it's a concern about the grid heater circuit codes then all that needs to be done is unhook the switch wire going to the solenoids and reconnect the factory wires, they are just ground wires. Then head down to the parts store that has a scanner (Autozone & others) to have them cleared.



Extreme1,

The switch is used in the control circuit, not the load circuit.



Dean

 

[abranz]

heater grid

Originally posted by WeirCummin

Chris,

We have not seen a problem in the ECM or otherwise with any of the trucks that running around here. There are many codes that can be generated and never trigger the MIL. If it's a concern about the grid heater circuit codes then all that needs to be done is unhook the switch wire going to the solenoids and reconnect the factory wires, they are just ground wires. Then head down to the parts store that has a scanner (Autozone & others) to have them cleared.



Extreme1,

The switch is used in the control circuit, not the load circuit.



Dean

 

[Texas Diesel]

One caveat (SP?) here: When using the Borg Warner S320 switch, you need to make sure you have no oil leaks. The plug you will remove has a O ring to seal it, the Borg Warner S320 has a flat for a sealing washer. I went to Ace and bought a copper sealing washer (thick) and it seals fine for me now, just tighten the sender in enough to slightly flex the copper washer in. Check for leaks at first, then at every oil change, still none.



This mod is a nice inprovement but, like Dean said, if you cant live with two codes being set, dont do this mod. My MIL lamp does NOT come on either.



Dean: Did you break your void sticker at the LSTDR event?

 

[WeirCummin]

Quote by Texas Diesel

The plug you will remove has a O ring to seal it, the Borg Warner S320 has a flat for a sealing washer.

TD

I changed this fix so the switch is mounted in the pressure port on the oil filter/cooler assembly. This is for simplicity sake, not on the side of the block where mounting is difficult. Yes the sticker was broken, hopefully someone will post a picture of it.



Texas Diesel has the first design I tried. It mounted the pressure switch on the left side of the block in an oil galley plug. The problem was that if you didn't use the sealing washer and O-ring properly (and sometimes even when you did) there was a good possibility of an oil leak. Thats why I've given ya'll the S320 PN it is a 1/8" NPT where the port on the side of the block is 10x1mm. I wanted to make this fix as simple as possible for ya'll, that's why I changed the switch and mount location.

Dean

 

[truckstom]

Simple is GOOD

 

[Motorhead]

VW uses a non tapered, copper gasket sealed oil pressure light switch on the older Rabbitts-gas or diesel. They are a Normally Closed switch meaning that with no oil pressure it makes contact.

Chris

 

[MLee]

pressure switch

went to napa's site on line they have an eclin switch, looks to be tapered,with the same cross reference #, check it out.

on the wires---- mine is a tan with black stirp on one and a cream with black strip on the other. the other wires is lite green with black strip. its a "95" i would guess that all models are the tan and black for the ground???????

marv.

 

[WeirCummin]

Marv,

It doesn't matter what brand of switch you use as long as it's 1/8"NPT, normally closed, open on rise.

As for the color codes on the wires, I'm sure DC has changed the colors numerous times All you need to is verify they are ground, this can be done with a Ohm meter.

 

[1tuffram]

So you are saying NO harmful effects will result from the heater not cycling once the engine is running? will this have any effects on idle quality right after start-up in say near or below zero temps? Guess I don't know the reasons DC and/or Cummins has the heaters cycle AFTER start-up, is it purely an emissions issue or are there other reasons???

 

[MLee]

re:grid heaters

thanks wier for the come back, did the ohm thing, thought i had it figured out, the green/ black was 0- ohm, turned on key, tried to verify, to ground, then nothing, you can imagine what went through my mind. blew the engine fuse in the dash fuse block. it must still be the tan/black colors for the ground.

have to look further on th switch specs for the proper one.

thanks again



sorry for the length

marv.

 

[WeirCummin]

So you are saying NO harmful effects will result from the heater not cycling once the engine is running?

1tuffram,

None that we've seen down here, but then again it rarely if ever gets down to 0*.



Like I said in my original post, this fix may not be for everyone. I have put it out there as an alternative to other fixes. If it doesn't seem right to you, don't use it.

 

[Motorhead]

The 12 valve engines that we have at UPS have NO grid heaters at all. These package cars are used all over the states. I think it is purely an emission thing at idle. to my knowledge, I have never seen them engage at higher RPMs. Chris

 

[Roger rodbolt]

I've ran with and without the intake heaters. Performance depends on how cold it is. With temps in the teens and below, starting and idle for warmup are noticeably affected. I see little or no reason to cycle the heaters while driving though. Just my $0. 005 though . Larry

 

[Josparkz]

Good trick

I like that pressure switch idea. Simplicity at it's finest. I have my bypass filter feeding out of the vacant port on the oil filter. Actually , I switched the lined with the turbo feed to get the plumbing in a little better. But I know I can stick a tee in there somwhere. I'm thinkinking maybe in the return line from the bypass filter. This might give just a slight delay , so to speak. That would be a good thing.

How much pressure does it take to open those switches , any body know ?

Thanks

 

[Steve Campbell]

I can not answer that question.....

Josparkz, but if you hooked it up to some air pressure and a guage?????? Maybe someone can do this, or just call NAPA and ask them.

 

[Sticks]

Performance Update

OK, It' half the winter has gone by now. Has anyone that has doen this in a cold dlimate area experienced any problems with this other than the two codes being set?

 

[99guy]

I’ve been experimenting with this since mid Jan. It’s been in the low teens quite a lot, few nights –2, -3, once –10 or so. I get in the Ram around 7 a. m. or so. I have a switch in the cab, not the oil press switch- not plugged the block heater in during this time. Oh, I’m the guy with the either button too. From what I’ve experienced I think I’d go with the cab switch in cold climates. Below 15 or so the Cummins is gonna clobber around and spit up some smoke for a minute or two or three without any grids at all. I’ll go out on a limb here and guess a number of TDR guys wouldn’t care for it. I can flip the switch on / off from the cab but if you were on an oil press switch you won’t have that option once pressure opens the switch. Jus my $. 02 …



To answer your ? sticks, no – no other problems

 

[Wyomingcowboy]

Anybody have any updates on this system? Any problems from the last 4 years? This is to be my 2nd winter with my CTD and I am also sick of the constant cycling of the heaters as it is below the minimum temp off and on here for a good 8/12 months.