2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Grid Heater Question

[JHastings]

I just bought my 98 12 valve and my grid heater does not work. I read a few threads about the relays on the fender well going bad so I took a look at them. Oddly enough, I found a wire with a terminal on the end of it that is disconnected. It is the two wires that come off the posts closest to the drivers side (Outside terminals) and then come together at a little 1/2 inch washer looking terminal. What does this thing connect to? Any help on this one would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jamie Hastings

 

[Signal73]

If its 2 wires that splice together into 1, it sounds like the fusible link that should be connected to the positive post on the battery. The current condition you have would provide no power to the grids or relays, so that can be your problem.

 

[Signal73]

PS I see in your sig you have a 160 pump, how'd you get stuck with that? 98 5sp should be a 215, no?

 

[JHastings]

i bought the truck from a guy who had twins on it and a race pump... When he put the HX-35 back on he put on a rebuilt 160 pump that he had laying around. He said that he liked the pumps better than the 215 for some reason. Is there really any difference between them? Anyhow, I need a plate in it I think. Any reason why I shouldn't go to a #8 or even a #6, it would do about the same as a #11 or #10 for the 215 pumps right? Thanks for your help on the grid heater.



Jamie

 

[Reno Guy]

When you first start, check with a test light to see if you are getting power at the different posts on each of the relays. I found that only one of the two grids were working when I checked mine out last winter. One of the relay housings was cracked and subsequently got corroded inside. What set me on to this is I installed indicator lights on the dash. Even though on wasn't working, the other was doing double duty during the cycling.



Just my $. 02

 

[JHastings]

Went and hooked up thoise wires and nothing realy happended yesterday. No change on the voltmeter and no sounds from under the hood. Light still goes on and all. This morning though (55 degrees) I went to start it up and there was a snap crackle and a pop under the hood. Went and opened the hood and a whole bunch of smoke came rolling out. One of the wires off the battery had blown up and it wasn't like it grounded out or anything. I don't know, i guess i will go get some new realys and go from there. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

Jamie

 

[Signal73]

Them are fusible links, sounds like they went? must have a short or bad grid maybe? some else gotta know.

 

[CarlJensen]

Grids are run by a simple relay system controlled by a sensor in the manifold that turns them on at 50 deg. or so. Can't remember the exact temp and they vary by year. The relays are powered by the wires you found through a fuse link. Blue colored wire at batt. terminal. Look real close at this link for cracks, corrosion or melted link. Relays can be replaced and Ford starter relays work well and are much cheaper and can be found everywhere. I installed a switch in mine so they can be turned off when not needed. The engine will start in very cold weather without them.

 

[JHastings]

My pickup has been changed around a lot and there are a lot of loose ends under the hood. I don't see the blue wire. The lead with the terminal on the end of it had been removed from the battery and taped with electrical tape for some reason. I just hooked it directly to the battery and when i went to start it, the wires blew up. Tonight I took the relays off and they appear to look ok (no cracks or anything) could it be that the actual heater itself by the intake manifold is bad? If so how do I check it out? I know I probably don't need them, but I'm taking a little trip in a few weeks up into the cold with no place to plug it in at. Also, I have quite a bit of white smoke in the mornings, is this bad?

Thanks

 

[CarlJensen]

I will get out my book today and take a look. Sounds like they have been disconnected by previous owner. They could be rewired with a fuse if the grids are good. Idon't think the basic circuit has changed in the different years, just the temp they turn on.

 

[JHastings]

How do I go about changing the grids? Do I take off the intake maniforld and intake tube to get to them where those two wires go?

 

[rweis]

How much amperage do EACH of the fusable links take? IF greater than 30 amps, where can you get fuse holders for the higher amperage square fuses.



I can imagine trying to find a DC fusable link out in the middle of no where. However any AutoZone type store has the square fuses.



Bob Weis

 

[CMckee]

You just have to remove the air horn going into the intake and the grids are right there. You should be able to check them with a meter to see if they are shorted or open. They draw 90amps each. Same with the relays you can check if the coil side is shorted or open as well.

 

[CarlJensen]

Fuse links are sold by most auto parts stores. Reinstall links by crimping into new wires, if needed.

 

[JHastings]

Thanks a bunch for all the help, I will look at those this weekend and see what I need to do to get them working again.

 

[Extreme1]

i bought the truck from a guy who had twins on it and a race pump... When he put the HX-35 back on he put on a rebuilt 160 pump that he had laying around. He said that he liked the pumps better than the 215 for some reason. Is there really any difference between them? Anyhow, I need a plate in it I think. Any reason why I shouldn't go to a #8 or even a #6, it would do about the same as a #11 or #10 for the 215 pumps right? Thanks for your help on the grid heater.



Jamie

I'd call TST. For a 160 pump you would want a #4 or #5 plate. Don't buy the junk off ebay unless it comes in a TST box, there's a lot of people taking a grinder to an old plate and calling it a #8 (or whatever).



Yes, there's a big difference between a 160 and a 215 pump, about 55 hp. The 160pumps have small cams, 131 delivery valves and are governed to a very low RPM (under 2400). A 3K or 4K GSK would be a better start if the pump is stock.