Grid Heaters.. To Be? or Not To Be?

[MCummings]

All-right, My first post of this got lost in the great crash of 2001.

I'll sum up my post.

1. When removing my intake plenum to drill and tap a pickup for my boost gauge, I saw that the grid heaters ate up about 25% of the allready tiny intake hole.

2. I got a bright idea about disconnecting and removing them. Only problems I saw were clearance problems. (I would need spacers to take the place of the absent grid heaters)

3. I reasoned.
Reason A: It is ALWAYS Very warm here in the summer, NEVER Below 75*F (overnight low)

Reason B: If I removed the heaters. .

1. There wouldn't be a chance for them to self-destruct
2. I would be getting more air to the engine, and that would mean lower EGT's.

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Okay, Those are my points for removing the grid heaters.

Has anybody else ever done this?

Would it harm my engine to do this in the summer? ( *I* Woulnd not think so. . but. . Ya Know)

I would think taking of my grid heaters would be similar to taking off the Fan (aka Going Fanless), as in, If it gets hot and you are without a fan,, You overheat. If it gets cold without your heaters, You get excessivly cold intake air temps.

Ideas Anybody?

MerrickNJr

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1998. 5 Dodge 3500, 2wd
5-Speed, Light Driftwood
STRAIGHT PIPED!
3. 55_LSD
A. R. E. Camper w/side pop up windows
Michelin LTX A/T 245/75/16's
Autometer Gaugeworks 3 Gauge A-Pillar Pod
Fuel Pressure (0-15Lbs)
Boost Pressure (0-35Lbs)
EGT Gauge (0-1600*F)
ATS Manifold too!!
My"REAL" Hobby

 

[hammong]

Over about 62 degrees F, the grid heaters don't cycle anyway. If it's always warm in your location, you're safe to remove them entirely.

I believe HVAC has permanantly removed his intake heater for airflow benefit reasons. Any comments HVAC?

Greg

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Y2K Dodge Cummins QC 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 Long Bed, 4. 10/Auto, Forest Green/Driftwood, 265x75R16 Michelin LTX, 6 speaker CD, Camper/Tow/Plow Packages, Westin Black Nerfs, Mopar bedliner, Ultra bright diamondplate toolbox, K&N Filtercharger, Autometer Ultralite EGT and Boost gauges in 2-gauge pillar w/tweeter, DD Stage II injectors, boost module, and boost elbow. Yee haw!
http://www.rints.com/hammond for photos!

 

[Mopar-muscle]

yes Hvac gutted his heater using the body as a spacer , the airhorn will not clear the TPS i think without it , Cummins must have a different airhorn or a spacer to replace it . i thought about do the same , except milling a spacer from a piece of billet stock wouldn't be that hard , also going to look at the banks hi ram for this , nice thing about the hi ram allows you to get in both hands for tv cable adjustment , not that that is a weekly occurance .

 

[MCummings]

Okay,, forget the grid heaters for now, I am facing this REAL problem now.

Thanks for all the replies so far though,, #ad


MerrickNJr

 

[My 6 Eats V8's Old File]

I've had mine out for about 4 years now and acctually was the one who convinced Nowel to take his out I think. I've never had a problem getting started at any temp even below freezing. #ad


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96 4x4, 3. 54 posi, 6. 5"lift, 35" bfg m/t's and 35x14. 5x16. 5 boggers,dual stabalizers, aluminium wheels, sport headlights,billet grill, K/N 0880, NOS, Performance Diesel LPG, BD Pulling/Competition fuel injection pump,370hp marine injectors, ported head, Hx40 w/ 16cm2, 4" exhaust w/ 2 chamber Flomaster, BD copetition auto transmission and torque converter, Kenwood sterio System, Westach 60lb boost/ egt guage with warning light,aluminium bed rail covers,chrome diff covers, 5 foot traction bars,
475hp and 1050lb of torque on #2
530hp and 1140 with bullydog lpg maxed(only 55hp)
590hp and 1200 with lpg and nos
all done in 5th gear with 35's.
have a great day.
Adam

 

[JJW_ND]

Your fine down to about 20 above. Then one heater helps. I got my truck started with one (of the two grids working) heater at -2, barly. Really cranked and sputtered. I would think you would need ether below -5 (no heaters to go BOOM!).

I never wait to start until below 30 anyway. Truck starts fine. 12Valve that is.

jjw
ND

 

[Crankshaft]

I e-mailed bomber on this. Cummins does make a bare block spacer. I bought one when I put on my Banks High Ram. Cummins calls it a "Connection Spacer" part# 3922484 cost me $26. 74, but we get a discount,still wont be over $30. 00; Hammer Down #ad


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98. 5,4x4qc,sprt,lthr,24v,5sp,354,Banks Stinger Plus with High Ram manifold,BD High Pulse injectors,BFG 265's,DMI chome rear bumper, gooseneck hitch