Here I am

Grinding halt due to wheel spacing

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

First ball joints and tie rods, now steering gear!!

An Awesome Look!!!

Status
Not open for further replies.
I was just about to drop some cash on a set of American Racing Mohave's in 18x9 (Chrome) only to find out that they don't have an optimal offset.



I see a great deal of aftermarket wheels on trucks, so I can only assume that these trucks are all having abuse done to their bearings.



Aside from the Kore rims in 18x8. 5 are there any safe options? I was going to purchase the Kore leveling kit to accomodate the American Racing rims but if the Kore's are my only option I may just leave my truck stock :rolleyes:



Also, does anyone have the Eagle 101's or 102's? I live in Chicago (land of road salt) and wonder how bad the polished finish would get abused.



Thanks in advance.
 
I have the H2 rims on my truck with the Kore springs. The rims are so cheap you can afford to detroy them.
 
Last edited:
I saw that write-up on the the Hummer install. Very nice. I'm however going more for the "poser" aspect instead of the "utilitarian. " :cool:
 
The Mojave's were my first choice in wheels for my '03. But after checking, I went with the Kore wheels. No regrets. These wheels will outlive me... .

TP
 
tpuig said:
The Mojave's were my first choice in wheels for my '03. But after checking, I went with the Kore wheels. No regrets. These wheels will outlive me... .

TP

How do the center caps attach?
 
These are what I'm saving for. American Eagle 114's or 133's have around 20-22 mm of positive offset in the 18" size which translates to 5. 4" to 6" of backspace depending on the width of the wheel. It's only 20mm off of what stock offset is. They are not hub-centric though. You can buy adapters here.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Spooled-up said:
These are what I'm saving for. American Eagle 114's or 133's have around 20-22 mm of positive offset in the 18" size which translates to 5. 4" to 6" of backspace depending on the width of the wheel. It's only 20mm off of what stock offset is. They are not hub-centric though. You can buy adapters here.



Stock offset is 40mm. To determine how far an aftermarket rim will protrude out compared to stock, you:



1) Subtract aftermarket wheel offset from factory. For example,

40 minus 20 = 20mm. 20mm = 0. 8 inches.



2) Subract stock wheel width of 8" from width of aftermarket wheel. Example:

9" rim - 8" =1"



3) Divide step 2 number in half (1"/2 = 0. 5")



4) Add the two numbers from steps 1 and 3:

20mm ( 0. 8") + 0. 5" = 1. 3"



Therefore a 9" wide aftermarket wheel with 20mm offset will extend out 1. 3" more than stock. Add beefier tires you'll extend out nearly 2" over stock.



When looking at backspace you'll want 6" minimum on a 8. 5" wheel, 6. 25 - 6. 5" for a 9" wide rim.



Who makes anything that fills the bill? The ONLY wheel I know of are the KORE supplied Weld wheels. The closest American Racing, Centerline, etc. can get is +20 offset and 5" backspace. . . not close enough for me. Most likely you'll be OK running these, but don't be surprised to have accelerated bearing and suspension wear.



Vaughn
 
Last edited by a moderator:
How do the centercaps attach?...

Bertram 65,

I only used the front caps. The mount the same way as the stock caps. Just push them in. There are tabs and a thin metal ring to keep them tight. No problems on the front, but the rear caps are very very tight. I didn't bother to use them.

Figured if I had such a hard time putting them on, I'd end up swearing up a storm trying get them off in the rain on the side of the road... ;-)

Frankly, I'll just paint the ends and not use the caps in the future, front or rear. I'm not much into cosmetics, and only use these wheels off road anyway. If I could have gotten the Kore wheels powder coated or painted flat, I would have.

TP
 
Nice pic Spooled Up. That diagram shows a Negative offset wheel (deeper on outside than hub side). That one would be like -20mm. That's like what you see on some of the ricers around here :rolleyes:
 
The thing that no one has convinved me of yet is that a wheel with less absolute offset is harder on bearings and suspensions. It doesn't seem to jive with a simplisitc view of the physics involved. (i. e. less leverage should mean less forces being transferred to the hub) :confused:



I mean, why does everyone assume that the automaker has maximized the design for wear? That is almost never their number one goal. Do you think that Cummins 5. 9 is tuned to be the most efficient engine possible from the factory?
 
Last edited:
I haven't seen anyone that has mentioned that their wheel bearings failed because of the offset in their wheels. I think the design is plenty strong. It would make sense to me that just the greater height of a tire would make for a longer "lever" that would exert more force on the hub during a turn when the wheel was side-loaded. Compare this to the offset which amounts to what would seem minimal change in forces because people usually go wider as well as less offset. I'm probably asking to hear about the problems people have had because of installing larger wheels and tires. :D
 
I've run 35" tires on all my trucks and have always had a 4. 5" backspace on my wheels. I've run anywhere from 12. 5 to 15. 5 wide and while I have had to replace ball joints prematurely I have never... ... . ever experienced wheel bearing failure. It's just not something I'm going to lose sleep over.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top