Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) gsk/#11 compatability

[Forrest Nearing]

I think that bottom one is a #6... looks just like mine did before I converted it into a deep #0



Forrest

 

[Forrest Nearing]

FWIW, this is what I turned my #6 into. I ground it down a hair deeper than the deepest point. obviously if I would have had a stocker laying around, I would have done it to a stocker, but the truck had the #6 in it when I bought it.



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[98rammer]

In fact any more lowering of the arm can easily cause one to lose the adjusting screw and nut into the bottom of the governor case.

been there, don'e that

 

[TPCDrafting]

I only dropped the deep socket in my pump when adjusting the gov. lever. The #11 and 3k gsk work great in mine after the adjustment. Before it ran like stock with the exception of no defueling. Both were bought at PDR at the same time. Maybe they changed things after I made my purchase. The power comes on very early now, I don't seem to need to go beyond 1/2 pedal to make the tires spin in any gear on wet pavement. It made 369/900 (peaking at ~2100 rpm) on the dyno but pegged the pyro. Plate is slid about 1/2 way forward. Exh. , turbo/houseing and new intake are on my overzealous Christmas wish list.

 

[pwerwagn]

I have my #11 slid full foward and have no egt concerns at all, unless lugged pretty good. Idid the gov lever adjustment when it was in stock position. Mines like yours TPC, it takes minimal throttle to get wheelspin on wet pavement. Even on dry pavement I can break em' loose in 3rd. I just dont like it defueling at 2700. Maybe I'll call Piers and see what they say.

 

[Howard Durand]

The bottom plate in my last post was sold to me as a TST #5. It has a #5 stamped in it. I bought it used from a TDR member over the classifieds.

With it in the truck, I had no problem hitting 3000 rpm and my 30# boost gauge pegged out. Based on that, I think the #10 installation needs some more adjustment.



Up to the point that it flattens out, the truck pulls quite well and the egt never got over 1250*.

The first adjustment following installation of the #10 was to move it forward about 0. 030" which helped quite a bit so now I think I'll move the governor arm up a little and see what happens.

I wish I had a better idea how all of the components in the pump work and how one affects the other.

 

[TPCDrafting]

Just an FYI Piers has the 3k gsk on sale this month. What a stockin' stuffer! :-laf

 

[K5IP]

Thanks for all the pictures everyone. I've been trying to understand how large a demensional change is necessary for various performance changes and the pictures are helpful. It would be nice if some measurements, say from the center of the mounting bolts were also included. It apprear that these demensions change considerably.

It seems that a #10 plate from TST is not necessarily the same as one from some other vendor. Also, looking the the TST chart, different plates provide considerable different performance levels with pumps of different year and transmission configurations.

Lots of room for research here. I wish we cold get a complete set of design drawings for all of these things.

Still don't know why I can't use a 3kgsk with my #6 tst from looking at the profiles.

Thanks Guys

 

[boondock]

Buy the #10 plate and 3K.



The #10 slid all the way back will be fine for your stock clutch. I saw no or not noticable power increase from a stock plate slid all the way forward vs a #10 all the way back. If you want more slid it forward.



Mine a tad over half way looking at the screws sliped the clutch only when towing. So a little back from stock and you should be fine. If it slips slide it back a little more. Only take 15 -20 minutes to slide the plate.



BTW now I have it about 2/3 forward from the screws and I can slip the clutch but it is holding it pretty well.

 

[Cooker]

It apprear that these demensions change considerably.

It seems that a #10 plate from TST is not necessarily the same as one from some other vendor.

The #10 in my picture is what I believed to be a TST plate. Although I did not purchase it from TST, it came from a very reputable dealer. I think it must just be a crappy pic that makes it look a little off as it looks just like the one in the pic Howard posted.

 

[C Schomer]

My 3k/11 works great! I have the rocker hitting just above the bottom corner. It pull hard, well past 3k. I have most of the low end smoke adjusted out. It dynoed 292/812 at Castlerock Co, a couple yrs ago. The guy said they've seen more hp but never saw one so responsive and quick winding. They couldn't keep the hose on my tailpipe but it wasn't needed, anyway. One little puff of smoke when they mashed it, then it cleared up. Craig

 

[Howard Durand]

It took most of the afternoon but I adjusted the governor arm about 3/32" up from where it was. What a difference, the truck runs like Seabiscuit.

It ran up to 80 pretty quick and I chickened out at 90. Still had throttle and the boost was well past the 30# on my gauge. I didn't take time to look at the tach.

Hate it that I have to wait until spring to take the trailer in tow.

The plate is still at 30 thousandths in front of stock. The AFC housing is in stock position.

I think I'll leave it alone for a while.

 

[TrqMonster]

Originally before my clutch was installed I purchased a #11 directly from TST at TiM this year. I was going to buy the GSK but they said to work properly I would need a #10. I beleive it had to do with fueling at the the higher RPM's.



Currently I have the plate pulled completly and a had to hook back up the wastegate since I still have the stock turbo and with wastegate plugged it was hitting like 52 with the way it is currently setup. With waste gate its now at 37PSI.



I started a thread to ask what was wrong with mine because that underload, I was not getting as high into the RPM's as others with a 4 GSK. I'm still getting plenty of fuel (smoke) but we think I need more air. So a new turbo is hopefully coming soon.



Does this make since as to why my truck is kind of "cutting me off" at around 3700 RPM or so with a 4 GSK installed. Also when someone refers to a #100 or #0 plate what exactly does that mean.

 

[pwerwagn]

A #0 plate is a plate ground like the one forrest posted in a pic, flat.

a #100 is a plate that Joe Donnelley made for forrest that has the low end contour of a #10, but with not top end defueling.

 

[Howard Durand]

I made a statement earlier that lowering the governor arm could cause one to lose the screw into the bowels of the governor case.

That was incorrect, backing out the screw raises the arm. Too much and out she goes.

 

[NHouse]

Howard, I have felt the same way about my #10 and 3K GSK since I put it in. I have pretty good power down low with some smoke untill the boost comes on, but then it clears right up and seems to run out of steam around 2500 rpm or so. I see about 36psi and have to really work to get temps to 1200. The plate is slightly forward from stock. It is not defueling, but just seems it could use more fuel if that makes sense. I have thought about the gov lever adjustment but have been reluctant to do it thinking that if it were adjusted higher on the plate, I would get to the top "nose" of the plate sooner and fuel would be pulled back even earlier. Is it possible that the arm isn't riding fully up the plate now?



Jim, do you have any input on this?



Nick

 

[Jim Fulmer]

On a #10 setup I'm never concerned about the topend, I set the Gov arm on the nose depending on were the real fuel starts to come on, if it comes on late like 1800-1900 then I drop the nose so it comes on more like 1600, if you don't want it to cut back fuel on the top to control EGT's then you shouldn't use a 10, it designed that way for a reason... ... ... midrange power and that works for most everyone as most don't have the air for the topend.



Jim

 

[NHouse]

Thanks Jim, I think I will probably leave mine alone for right now. I guess I wansn't really looking at it as a good thing.



Nick