guage install?

[bgilbert]

I want to buy and install a boost, egt, tach, transmission and coolant guage. My ? is how difficult are they to install? Do I get everything needed for the install when I buy the guage? Will there be instructions included? I know these are lame questions but, if its not a difficult task and everything is included in each guage, I will do the install myself instead of paying Scheid here in Terre Haute,IN. Thanks Bill

 

[Tim1]

guage install

Bill, the install on these guages is real simple, just take your time. The isspro tach comes with good instructions and personally I like the mechanical oil pressure guage. I used a piece of grease hose to go from the engine to the firewall and then used copper tubing to go to the guage. I had a bad experience with that plastic tubing once and won't use it again. I pulled the turbo off to drill the hole for the pyro probe, just get off to the side a bit as there is a rib in the center you don't want to tap through. Use never sieze. Boost guage already has a tapped hole in the intake system not being used of 1\8" pipe, real nice! Be sure and get a boost guage that goes high enough in case you make a lot of boost. Good luck. Tim

 

[CDegner]

OK, gauge gurus!

On the ISSPRO transmission temp gauge, the lead to the sensor is fairly short. Is there any problem splicing in additional lengths of wire to make it long enough to reach? I know some instruments are calibrated with certain lengths and types of wire ... just wondering about this one?



Carl

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Nope, no problem splicing additional wire as need on the transmission temp gauge.

Also, when you install the sensor "T" consider doing it were the transmission outlet line turns upward to the oil cooler. Anywere after it starts upward will do.



Next they are compression fittings, and can leak if they are under tightened or over tightened.

Snug it up just enough to prevent drips or "sweating". You may need to take one or two "runs at it" to get the snugness right.



I recommmend the 'verticle' run because the horizontal section is snug up against the other transmission line, and against the bottom of th bell housing/inspection plate and that is a crappy place to try and get those large open end wrenches in to tighten up the compression fitting. You need to make the final call but keep the issue of accessability and convenience in mind when it comes to install and working space.



The pyro probe should be mounted in the "back" port of the manifold outlet. This is often the hotter port since it vents the rear cylinders which run a bit hotter than the front 3.

Your probe, when installed should protrude into the exhaust stream about 1/4" to 3/8". That is plenty.

Last, when you go to drilling you have a couple options. One is to do it with the turbo on the truck. If that is your choice, then do this:

Center punch about 1 1/4" back from the gasket surface and just slightly left of center. When you drill, coat your bit with thick grease. This will snag alot of shavings as you drill and you can clean it off as you go. When you "break thru" you can use a mechanics magnet to fish for any shavings inside. Then use the same method while tapping..... grease the baby up, tap, clean, grease, tap etc. Again, use the magnet to pull any shavings out.

Don't worry about any tiny bits that "may" have eluded you, they'll blow out when you fire it up.



The other method is removing the turbo so you can actually see inside the manifold outlet. all you need to do is stuff a big rag into the rear port, drill, tap, and pull out the rag. Good to go.



Hope that helps... .



bob.



Hope that helps.

 

["Mad Max"]

Some ideas for you...

BG - There are so many options out there on what brand to buy, where to place them, how to install them, etc etc. You are in the right place to discuss all of the above. My best advice is read a lot, measure 5-6 times, and drill ONCE. Fabrication work on the installation of the gauge pods or panels or what ever may be a bit intimidating, but when you've done these mods and put cool gauges where you want them, you will be extremely proud of your work. And, if it isn't perfect you can usually remount a gauge, but with the drilling and tapping, be sure you only drill once.

Below is a link to a thread with some pics from my rig - only for variety. There are more in my readers rigs. Have fun. Any q's send a reply or PM.

- Sam





https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=71990

 

["Mad Max"]

Pic of manifold drill/tap

At the end of the thread link below there's a pic of my manifold drilled and tapped. Drilling is easy, make sure it's aligned and just make a hole, but make sure the hole is the correct size to match the tap you will use for the threads of the fitting. Tap only what you need. Tap a bit, test the fitting, and tap some more if the fitting isn't threaded all the way in. Try to get all the threads below the surface of the manifold, but not lower. Remember to remove the burrs on the inside as well.

- Sam



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=76744

 

[Greenleaf]

Something To Think About

When it's time for me to install my trans temp gauge I'm thinking "why not remove the oil pan, torch a hole in it, weld in a pipe coupling, install the sensor?" Could even use a weather-pack connector to assist in R&R of pan.



Has anyone tried this? Wouldn't it give an accurate reading. I think I'll try this.



Scott



Great successes never come without risks

 

[bgilbert]

Thanks guys, I will buy a tach, coolant and boost guage. Probly will wait for the pyro until I come across a 16cm exhaust housing, or if not too expensive new I will buy one. Might as well do that mod when the turbo is off and then drill and tap into the exhaust manifold. Usually when I start a project with limited time the truck is down for awhile. So I probly wont start this project until the Scheid Diesel extravagansa is over. I missed Muncie cause it was down. Bill