H.O. or no H.O.

[1BIG44]

Re: One last thought!

Originally posted by Wiredawg

just for the sake of conversation...



If DC offered an ETC/DEE AND an ETH/DEE, I would go with the ETC engine and use the money saved towards bombing.



A friend has an ETH/DEE with EZ-Comp and 275s. I have TST PM-3 Adjustable and 275s. Dyno results as follows:



ETH/DEE 315. 4 HP/668 Ft Lbs TQ

ETC/DEE 315. 3 HP/774 Ft Lbs TQ



So, you can see we're pretty close. I'm reckon the EZ-Comp and TST PM-3 Adjustable are comparable.



Anyone else like to add their thoughts?



Wiredawg

Sounds more like numbers from an EZ and not the comp box. I have an ETH with 275's.



add the EZ 310 hp

add the comp 357 hp



I'm pretty sure he was running the EZ back when you guys dynoed.



Wes

 

[Idaho CTD]

I'm with wiredawg

An etc 6spd and I'd be all over it.

Mark,

I just want to be able to use some of the power I have without melting down. I took my truck out for a run tonight and it ran to 38psi. About the time I hit 38 psi I also hit 1200* and it was climbing fast. This was at level 9 and wot. The weird thing is the other night it didn't seem to want to build boost while towing my trailer. With just the dd2's I could only get 22-23lbs. The temps were above 1200* too. I think I'm going to skip the B1 stage and try to build my own twins with my stock hx-35(add on 14 or 16cm housing) and my pdr hx-40. I talked to piers about it today and he said a guy in WA did it with good success until part of his weld went through a turbo. I read his post a while back and I think he was getting 50psi with no temp probs at all. What could it hurt? I already have the turbos and even if someone had to pay another to weld it up I bet it wouldn't cost over 500. 00. A whole lot less then a B1. I think I might also get an EZ for the timing aspect. Just my . 02.



Nathan

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

1200* is optimal. uless temps hit 1300 or more there is nothing to worry about.



1200* means you have almost exactly enough air for the fuel you are burning. lower is a lean state, higher is overfueled or 'rich'.



twins are a good option and the B1 is expensive. but it's a bolt on that fuctions as well as twins to 430hp





not eveyone has the skill and technology or desire to fab a set of twins.



The heat problems are just as bad on an ETC... it's caused by overfueling not the ETH engine.





If you haven't already, put in a 180* thermostat. it gets better mileage and stops the water temp from fluctuating.



Later,

Mark

 

[Idaho CTD]

Mark,

I ordered a 180* thermostat from Geno's but the are being held until they finally get my FP guage in. I think they are going to be in tomorrow. I was ok with the way the truck ran tonight but I'm waiting to see what happens when I haul my trailer home tomorrow. Like I said it ran weak when I left. The trailer will be about 2500lbs lighter (600ft of pipe gone). I dont mind running up to 1200* but I want to do it without slowing down or going over that temp. Right now I cant even turn my box on or I will be over 1300* easy . The trailer I pull isn't very heavy and the wind drag is minimal due to the flatbed.



Thanks for your input

Nathan

 

[WadePatton]

Then I'm all set, huh?

I have the 2000 with NV5600 and ETC!



Jest got the truck with 47K on it. AMAZED at the power over Dad's 160HP and love the 5600 over Mom's juicer (auto).



I know "Guages First" but I like thinking/planning the bombs.



Questions: (send me to the threads where applicable--I often get lost in the search)







Given that: I'll be towing 10% or less of the time and I'm not in the mountains. I'm not going to be racing (officially). And I don't want to buy a clutch right away.



1. Won't a fueling box be enough?



2. Has anybody bought one box and decided that they'd really rather have another -similar power level- unit?



3. Anywhere I can go and get a feature comparison chart of the various units?



4. What would you do different if you were starting anew like me?



5. EGT pre or post turbo? I see you folks measuring both ways.



6. I'm planning boost, EGT, and fuel pressure guages-need more? [and a 180 stat]



Thanks

 

[Idaho CTD]

What I would do

Wade,

If I was to start all over I would buy an Edge Drag Comp and not hook up the pump wire until I was ready to purchase a clutch. The next thing I would go for is stage 3 injectors (I have dd2's in my HO and BD3's in my etc, 3's are much more impressive). Not long after all this you'll be looking for a bigger turbo, exhaust, and fuel system upgrades.



Just my . 02

Nathan

P. S. Yeah I think you got lucky in the ETC/DEE combo atleast for towing. For just fun and light towing the 5spd or auto is better. IMHO

 

[Diesel Freak]

My $.02

I have an early 2001 ETH DEE



stock

max boost: 22PSI

Highest EGT: 1100F

worst towing milage: 14 MPG... this was on a trip from Oregon to Colorado with a GCVW of 14000#. This was my Break in run. The truck only had 1500 miles on it at the beginning of the trip



I never dyno'd it stock, but here are my results after bombing... . all runs were on the same Dyno.



with 275's: 233 HP

275's and Puck: 302HP/753 FtxLbf

DD3's and Puck: 358HP/876 FtxLbf



Highest EGT is current form with DD3's and Puck: 1300F

Highest Boost in current form: 38 PSI with stock HX35 (on a side note my truck came with a 14 cm housing)



curent milage averages close to 17. Highway milage I can hit 19 MPG if I keep it at 2000 RPM



I have not towed enough to get any milage readings since installing the DD3's... but I bet it is around 12-13 MPG when over 15000#'s

 

[Diesel Freak]

Wade Patton:







1. Won't a fueling box be enough?



If you want to tow stick with a mild timing box like the VA, Puck and EZ, and not a box that taps the Pump wire. Injectors are also a better choice over fueling boxes when towing.



2. Has anybody bought one box and decided that they'd really rather have another -similar power level- unit?



I am sure that has happened many times



3. Anywhere I can go and get a feature comparison chart of the various units?



no



4. What would you do different if you were starting anew like me?



dyno my truck in stock form first, and save up for a clutch from the beginning





5. EGT pre or post turbo? I see you folks measuring both ways.



Pre Turbo to monitor full load EGT



6. I'm planning boost, EGT, and fuel pressure guages-need more? [and a 180 stat]



only if you want the extra 'Gizmo Factor'

 

[Chipstien]

Wade, I whole heartedly agree with Idaho CTD. Get DD 3's and disable the wastegate first before anything. My Egt's are fine and the thing has great power and little smoke. Then when you can afford a box, go with a Comp or UFM. I made the mistake of buying a EZ and had to sell it and get the UFM. Eventually you will need to get a turbo but that can wait.