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H1C upgrade or HX 35 questions

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Can 60#valve springs cause lower oil pressure?

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Who has upgraded their H1C? What were your results? Who has gone to an HX 35 and feel it was worth it. I am torn between the two options. I crave more power but for now just want to lower my egts and try to preserve my clutch :rolleyes: . I am also debating the 16cm housing as an upgrade at this point because I could use it with either option.

Thanks for any input.
 
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I replaced my stock H1C with a rebuilt H1C (to stock specs) and a new 16cm housing. It was ok but after spending a fair amount of cash on the rebuilt turbo and only using it for two months, it developed a chatter that led me to believe the blades were touching the housing just before coming down to idle while driving. Since I had to do something, I went for the PDR HX-35 and it was worth every penny - I wish I had bought the HX-35 first. I reused the 16cm housing and that combo works great for what I need.
 
Well I called and talked to HTT and after I talked to them I decided that their stage 3 upgrade for the H1C and a 16 cm housing were a good upgrade for me. I just have to adapt the inlet and outlet to fit my airbox and crossover tube.
 
I went the new 35 route cause I knew that I would be building the truck up and wanted a reliable unit. Not a warmed over one. They are both good units and can both be modified considerably. A rebuilt H1C would be just as good I suppose. The two units are very similar. However, a Stage III H1 is different from a stage III 35. Don't know why. Talk to HTT and they will help you decide.





Well, guess I was too late. You must have been reading my mind.
 
We did a stage III upgrade to the WH1C that was on my son's 94. It can support a lot of HP I can attest to that.

Good choice.

Now send me an email to -- email address removed -- and I'll send pics of how I modified my crossover tube to accept a full sized H1C.

Jay
 
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Cancel upgrade, headgasket first.

I had to call and cancel the order when my haedgasket blew this morning. :{ Oh well I won't spend all my money on the gasket and I'll get my upgrade bought next payday, hopefully. BTW I know it's the gasket because it is squirting out right above the oil filter housing.

Thanks for everyone's input.
 
If you do it yourself using cummins parts you can probably get the parts for less than $200 (it was only $130 for my 4BT gasket kit). Make sure you get the right valve seals for the kit though, mine came with ISB valve seals and had to take an extra trip just for the valve seals. Have the Cummins guy read up on the notes on this. Machine work less than $200 if you find a reasonable shop, I would have it machined.



I have a 4 cyl but I am loving my larger impeller WH1C versus the H1C with a smaller diameter housing, similar to what you are talking about with the 16 cm housing, but I would get more impeller as well if it were me...
 
A headset was $170 at cummins and I will check the head over closely, but I think 230,000 miles and 35 lbs of boost was just too much for the stocker. It leaks into the coolant system and out the side. :(
 
Make something good out of something bad, now would be the perfect time to do the o-ring thing not to mention 60lb valve springs and when you slap it back together, go with an arp head stud kit then you probably won't loose that head gasket again, unless you've done those things allready then i don't know.
 
HTT Stage II vs. HTT Stage III

I too am looking at the H1C upgrade when I put mine together. The question is which stage to go to? I am looking now at doing new injectors (POD vs. 190)?, BHAF, and probably fuel pin grind. What kind of HP could I be looking at then? The HTT folks told me that up around 300HP they recommend the stage II over the stage III.

Since I am doing a full rebuild would a stage 1 port from Piers do much for me, or is that for much higher HP ranges???

Thanks for the ideas.

Ken
 
When you go to do the gasket could you let up know if your bolts are lose?



I have read alot of posts about bolts being lose. I had a small leak in the front corner of my HG. I hit the bolts with the TQ wrench set a 115ftlbs and thay all went 1/4 to a 1/2 turn. the leak is totaly gone now and I have done many mods since. I don't think it could hurt to much it give our heads a check at 100k or so. I think alot of HG probs could be prevented buy checking the bolts.
 
I simply cannot imagine... ... ..... The best method would be to remove one at a time, clean the hole, clean the bolt, clean/clean/clean and then lightly oil the shoulder/threads and torque to 120/125 lbs ft. Just like installing a head stud.



To retorque an existing bolt would be odd (to me) The corrosion and no oil to lube the shoulder etc. would provide a false reading..... right?



You pull that head and you'll want to check out tons of stuff. This could get to be expensive. If you only replace the head gasket, that would be something a used car dealership would do. If you plan to keep said truck and modify you need to look things over well and (possibly) upgrade the head along with valve job/springs etc. etc. etc. etc. etc.



-S
 
The bolts on the head are loose probably only had 40 to 50 lb ft of torque left on them. I plan to check the head over closely as I might have this truck for a while. I plan on a max of 40-45 lbs of boost. Does everyone think a stock gasket should hold? I plan on studs but not right now.

Thanks for everyone's thoughts.
 
Truck is rattlin again.

I got her back together this morning. I have to say one thing these 12 valves are easy to get bled and restarted. I pumped for about a minute then left the injector lines loose. It turned over 4 times and was squirting fuel out then I tightened the injectors and it fired right off even though it was in the teens last night and I didn't have the grid heater in yet :D .
 
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