had differential service today - help!!!!

[Spooled-up]

I wouldn't.

After seeing the insides of the differential, I would rather be sure that all of the oil was out of there. There is a channel at the bottom of the case that you'd have to be sure to "vacuum" out. It sits at the bottom of the ring gear, and I used my finger to sweep most of the oil out of it. I couldn't imagine doing it through the fill hole and not being able to really see anything. It's pretty tight in there.

 

[draymorris]

Lots of advice and opinions

I had mine replaced at the dealer once. I watched them and learned - I have a great dealer with great technicians. After that I have replaced my fluid twice myself in the rear and once in the front.



1. The gaskets are reusable and have never given me a problem with leaks. No silicone required.



2. I don't recall seeing "stops" built into the gasket but i do beleive they are there because the gasket did not even try to push out.



3. The bolts bottoming out to establish the compression of the gasket is incorrect. The service manual I downloaded from a thread about 6 mo ago clearly states 30 ft/lbs. You might do a search on this sight to get that manual - someone put a link to it and it took about 20 min to download with out DSL - but it is worth it. If you have problems PM me and I will try to help or put it on disk and mail you.



4. Take the cover off to change the fluid! As stated earlier, there is a deep spot where all the metal goes. Even if I had a drain plug, I would rather take the cover off to get the metal out. Mine continues to produce more metal than I like to see.



5. When the tech did it at the dealership, he pulled the cover, let the fluid drain by holding the bottom of the cover before completely removing the bolts, after letting it drip for a while, he washed the inside down with brake parts cleaner(this really cleans the inside), then he soaked the remaining fluid in a rag and wiped out the bottom with a rag(this is where a lot of metal was seen). Blew it out with air, cleaned and replaces gasket and cover, and refilled.



6. As for the 75-90 or 75-140 arguement, use your own judgement on the advice. It seems that it is not clear whether AAM or DC will say that it is OK - Amsoil thinks that 140 is fine in hotter and heavier conditions, but 90 is also sufficient. I think I will stay with the 75-90 even though I may run 39k GVW in 100F TX heat.



7. As for the 15k change interval, I agree that it is probably overkill and refuse to follow that schedule - as much as I pull, I think I will go every 25 K or more. But I continue to check my magnet for metal and still see lots on it - so 25K will be enough. If I did not pull heavy loads, 50 to 100K would not worry me if I used synthetic. I know trucks with over 300k that have never had the rear changed and still drive every day - they may be worn, but a 300k everything is.



Hope this helps.

 

[Krahner]

I just changed my 04 axel fluids and a friends 03 axel fluids, both had reusable gaskets, we used a little blue thread lock on the bolts and snugged them down tight - There are a couple of threads (as mentioned above) that have torgued the bolts to 30lbs and have snapped the bolts.



1st time changing the axel fluids - used Amsoil SVG 75W90 - it was a very easy job. Cleaned the inside of the cover and removed all shavings from the magnetic full bolt. the 03 had significantly more shavings than the 04. both had similar miles.



I also agree with the comments above - just because you take your truck in to a professional shop for work - Does not mean you will get a professional job. Its better to do the work yourself - this way you know how things work, you can inspect for wear and damage and you know how it was put back together.