Happy Customer with FASS

[Eric Lee]

I installed my FASS system the other day that I ordered through PDR. I am very pleased with the value recieved. The unit is large and heavy duty, quality throughout. Kit was well designed and fit like a glove on my short box. I added one 90 deg elbow on the return to clean up hose routing.



I'm not sure how the product improvements have progressed but I read many posts on this system and concerns about bracket strength, filter, increases in performance etc. - I can not talk on reliability yet but if it lasts for more than a few $150 carter lp replacements I'm sure I'll get my moneys worth.

Entire unit is impressive quality -

Brackets are beefy. -

Filter was CimTek 3 Micron -

Pump starts up for 2-3 seconds at key turn to 'prime' the system and then back off to release pressure at start then back up to 14-15 psi. I never saw my stock setup jump the needle to give a little pressure to the system like the ECU obviously intends prior to actually hitting starter.

I plumbed the FASS feed line to the empty fuel filter to make use of the heater and WIF sensor. Also ordered another Genos banjo bolt with bigger holes for what's left of the stock fuel line between stock filter and inj pump - I already had one with a tap at the bottom of filter for my FP sender.



I really like this system Oo. - I even like the way it sticks out under the bed - should've come out of the factory like this -

 

[Don-T]

What did you use for a fitting to get the fuel line into the stock filter housing? I am thinking about doing the same thing.

 

[Eric Lee]

Don T - That fitting is included in the install kit with the FASS. The only fittings I added that were not included was a 90 deg female flare to male flare fitting out of FASS and the 2 banjo bolts with larger holes at the bottom of filter ( with tap for gauge) and at the injection pump. The fuel to motor and the return to the overflow to the tank both exit the FASS from the same side of unit, on the shortbox those lines head in different directions. One back to the tank and one forward to the engine. With the 90 I didn't have to wrap the return around the cab mount and back to tank - quick 90 out of unit and the hose made the other 90.

The FASS is installed differently on the short box and the long box, I'm not sure if those two lines both get routed in the same directon on the long box.

This location for my gauge really turned out nice also - leaves the shraeder valve at inj pump available for temperary guage to double check system. I used a high quality 18" grease hose out of an 1/8"npt 90 at banjo from there to sender mounted on custom bracket at dipstick mount on intake for sender.

 

[MKresch]

i just purchased the fass system. it should be here in a couple of days. hopefully soon because my truck is down. my question is how did you prime the system after you installed the pump?

 

[Mad Bomber]

my question is how did you prime the system after you installed the pump?

What I did was leave the hose off from the back of the injection pump and cycled the FASS and had a full stream of diesel in less than 1 cycle.

 

[Don-T]

Eric,

Are you pushing the fuel through the stock lift pump? On my truck the lift pump is bolted to the side of the stock fuel filter. I have to get an adaptor that will replace the stock lift pump in order to use the stock filter/heater/drain. The fittings that came with my FASS are for tieing directly into the high pressure pump.



I just noticed you have a 2001 truck, I guess it is not the same as my 2004.

 

[Mad Bomber]

Eric,

Are you pushing the fuel through the stock lift pump? On my truck the lift pump is bolted to the side of the stock fuel filter. I have to get an adaptor that will replace the stock lift pump in order to use the stock filter/heater/drain. The fittings that came with my FASS are for tieing directly into the high pressure pump.



I just noticed you have a 2001 truck, I guess it is not the same as my 2004.

Don, I belive the stock LP should be deleted. I have my FASS into the back of my stock filter can and no filter. The lines between the stock filter and the VP 44 are all A-N -6 lines.

 

[Eric Lee]

Don T - I have mine running the same way as Mad Bomber - with the exception of using the stock line from filter to VP with drilled banjos. I'm not sure how the '04 is configured - so I can't speak on it. I liked the idea of making use of the WIF sensor and fuel heater. I too am running without filter in stock can.



I have heard of hard start situations with the FASS so please ask around to as why and maybe you can save some hardship.

I oiled all slip connections well before assembly - they push on a little hard and it might be possible to damage hose lining or give up before they are fully seated. I think if each joint is prepared carefully to as not allow any air into system you will be good. I would recommend familiarizing yourself with hose routing and precut to enable you to make slip connections out in the open before you try to make it in cramped space. It is almost impossible to force that hose completely over barb if you don't have a death grip with both hands.

I still love my FASS - Eric

 

[Eric Lee]

The install manual suggests loosening water separator cartridge until it unseats and you hear the pump prime - then retighten. Worked for me -

 

[Supermod56]

Use a heat gun on the end of the hose and a little oil/WD40 on the fitting, works great!! We do it on the race car all the time



Tom

 

[Mad Bomber]

Fass

Use a heat gun on the end of the hose and a little oil/WD40 on the fitting, works great!! We do it on the race car all the time



Tom

I wish I'd heard that when I installed mine what a real PITA

 

[Supermod56]

Yeah I know, my driver laughed at me the first time I did it without the heat gun!!



Tom

 

[mmclaughlin]

Heat gun? Now why couldn't I have figured that out when I installed the thing - probably the hardest part of the installation was getting the hoses over those fittings. They've been on for about a year now (close to 30k miles) with no probems at all. Love the system! As for the hard start, I haven't fugured out why people have a hard time with this. When I turn the key, I get the quick 1-2 second run or the pump that gets my pressure up to about 10psi for a second, then drops down to 0 a couple seconds after that. One short kick of the starter is all it takes for her to fire up. Is it possible that people are not waiting at all during the ignition sequence, and are trying to start the truck when there is full pressure in the lines (i. e. not waiting the 2-3 seconds for the pressure to drop)? Just wondering. My pump runs at a constant 15 psi.



-m

 

[JTruelove]

Have you been happy with the Banks system?

 

[tractorface]

Heat gun is a good idea

Vaseline will also work. With Vaseline no heat is needed as long as it is at least 75 or so outside. In the winter you gotta have heat.

No vaseline jokes either

 

[Eric Lee]

TrueLove - About the Banks - I'm still happy with it - but after reading this board I'm getting itchy to try the Edge Comp box. As far as it goes - a 'full' system was good for me to start with - but horsepower is addictive. I could not leave good enough alone. I have a PDR 35HX on the bench now ready to go in, and you see I also have Jammer 2's (and thinking about 3's) -

If I did it over -

Banks exhaust - KEEP

Banks High Ram - KEEP (maybe no HP but I run cool on EGTs)

Ottomind - Maybe not - I like the EGT safety feature but I guess since I have never tried another box I'm wondering... ... ... ... . Edge Comp

Guages - Any good gauges will work - Minimum EGT/FP/Boost

Turbo Mod - DITCH - I'm changing that now ... .

K&N Filter - DITCH - 89% Efficient - ProGuard s going on with turbo.....

- Eric