2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Hard cold start - "mystery" solved

[Song Dog]

I've had no grid heaters for 15 months. The truck has been to the dealer three separate times. Each time I was told both grid heaters are cycling properly, the relays are fine, no codes were set, and I'm essentially full of crap. Still, the symptoms remained -- it was hard to start in 35 degree temps, there were huge clouds of white smoke on each attempt, the ammeter wouldn't drop when the "wait to start" light came on, nor would the headlights dim.



I've read all related posts on the forum, and posted one of my own. I've followed the suggestions (those I understood), including replacement of the AIT sensor. No dice.



Yesterday, I grabbed the thick 3" wire in front of the grid heater, and moved it. Dust crumbled from the upper end. I moved it a little more, and it broke off. I'm guessing it's a ground wire. The lower end is attached to a terminal, and the upper end is attached to a bolt. Anyway, I stripped the insulation, cut off the corroded end, reattached it, and guess what -- the grid heaters work great.



As you can tell by the simplicity of this fix, I'm an idiot when it comes to mechanical and electrical gadgetry. But, what does that make my dealer?

 

[snowracer69]

Originally posted by Song Dog

But, what does that make my dealer?

The exact thing/reason that some of them DESERVE to be called that "sensored" word that sounds like they are stealing something from you... hint, hint... . nudge, nudge... .



Some aren't worth their weight in cow I TRIED TO BY-PASS THE CUSSING FILTER, others are worth their weight in platinum.

 

[DBCooper]

Don't feel too bad. My local "dealer" couldn't diagnose a frayed throttle cable last week. Did the TSB and gave it back saying they couldn't figure out why it wouldn't idle right. I put a new cable in in about 10 minutes. Last time I go.

D.

 

[Cooker]

Song Dog, sorry to hear about you all to typical dealer expereince.



When I had my throttle cable replaced they broke my TPS and made me pay for a new one



With intelligence of the TDR members and a set of tools I am thankful I that I won't have to go to the dealer again

 

[dieselshu]

Grid Heaters

SongDog, I have seen the many post's concerning the grid heaters and such. . so I installed some green LED'S to monitor the heaters operation. They work great, cheap and simple insurance for future problems. If you need some info let me know.





Dave

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

A potential problem area is that the airhorn hold-down bolt used as securing point for the grid heater ground is an anodized bolt, which resists current flow - you can check DC continuity by testing for continuity between the ground lug of the heavy lead of the heater ground strap to the ground post of the bettery - it should be zero ohms or extremely close. If not, good possibility the hold down bolt needs to be removed, and the threads and area on the underside of the bolt head thoroughly wire brushed or ground lightly to remove the anodizing plating. A quick check can be made bu testing again with an ohmmeter between the cleaned threads and underside of the bolt head for continuity. Once reassembled, a good quality stainless starwasher on each side of the grid heater ground lug, plus some anti-oxidant paste will help keep contact good.



Here's a pointer that might help with this sort of problem with grid hetares, as well as other related problems:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=89040&highlight=grounding

 

[ntillm01]

Another way to check grounds is a voltage drop method. I prefer it over the ohm-meter method because it actually tests the circuit under load. I have seen several high-current ground or power circuits test good with an ohm-meter, that failed under a load.

Take a test light, or voltmeter and connect one end to the terminal that is supposed to be grounded, and the other to a solid ground point (bare part of the block, battery negative, etc. ). Turn the circuit on, or know that it's supposed to be on and watch. No meter voltage or no light=no voltage drop=ground is really a ground. If the meter indicated something, or the light lights up, the ground isn't getting to where it should be.



Too bad the dealer didn't know about this... after all, it IS in their service manual. Gotta open those things once in a while...

 

[StakeMan]

I had a similar problem last winter. Ground was fried. I went to the local car audio store and bought some heavier gauge power wire and made my own. No worries now.