Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Hard / Slow to start when cold

[bnbrown]

The wifes 2000 (200k miles) has been slower to fire than it has ever been, it also has been colder than the truck has ever been in (was -10*f) last night. It is parked in a barn, but cant be plugged in (no 'lectricity out here). The grid heaters seem to cycle fine, voltage drops as normal when they cycle. Takes probably 10seconds of cranking. Smokes white like a wet campfire for probably 10 minutes. It also will not accelerate immediately after starting, will make maybe 1200rpm WOT, I have to pull it out of the barn or it smokes everything out.
Once it warms up everything is ok, runs, starts, etc.
Colder it is, harder it is to start, if it is over 30* it isnt a problem, still smokes, but will fire right up.
This morning it took two cycles of the grid heaters, 10 seconds of cranking and it still choked and sputtered pretty bad, when I gave it throttle it sputtered worse, almost died (was -10 last night, had been sitting 2 days).
FP is good, comes up with key on, after failed start, running. . the usual.

I will check resistance on both grid heaters, and check voltage on them to make sure both are operating.
I am hoping it is not the VP (looks to be the original), think it had a 1693 code last time i checked, just put a new VP in my 99 so not jumping up and down to fork over the $$ again right away. #@$%!
Any thoughts would be appreciated, fuel level doesnt seem to matter, its parked level in the same place every time. Cycling grid heaters doesnt make a huge difference, some improvement but still coughs and farts to get started after 2 or 3 cycles @ 8*.
Update: I checked the resistance on both grids, both show the same, seem to be good. Also both show voltage when engaged (~11 volts)

 

[2-ND TIME]

Hard to start!

What is the distance to the barn? For I am going to tell if you tell me the distance from the house what wire size cable to get. Or you would be better to have it by the house and get a set of battery warmers as well so it can be warm. I also use 1/4" bungie cord to go around the warmers it applies an even pressure to the battery warmer. you would be much better off. Mine is out side now it is only -13*C but if -40C out then the block is at least partly warm . Forgot where you were but if there is a farm store near baler belting with punched holes in one end with 500 lbs test 1/8" string strung between the two hood supports works well to hold the baler belting in between the rad and intercooler. Varied with the temp outside. Hope this helps also switch to synthetic oil all the way around better. Your choice in brands. It is much better.

 

[bncech]

Does the manifold heater cylce once it starts ? I had 1st generation that chugged and smoked just plane didn t wanna run becuz the grid didn t cycle once started

 

[bnbrown]

The manifold heaters cycle normally, one good long blast prior to start, then the usual shorter hits once running.



2-ND time - We are pretty far off the beaten path out here, kind of near cheyenne, wy and laramie, wy. When I say there is no electricity, I mean there is no service to the area currently trying to work a deal with a neighbor to allow an easement, but still looking at about $20k to get it to our property. Currently using generators, inverters and batteries... considered going full off grid, and the concept is still on the table, just with the extra cost of equipment... in any case running any kind of electric heater is not really an option at this time.

have thought about putting some high tech cardboard or a mudflap between the intercooler and radiator, but for the most part once it gets up to temp it will maintain it (180*F T-stat) at about 170*-180* depending on if it is above 20*F ambient or so. If it is below 20*F she does have trouble keeping 170* or so, and starts sounding a little cold. Havent seen the trans temp make it to 150* in three months :-laf We have several farm/ranch stores nearby, will take a look at baler belting next time I am at one.

I have straight synthetic in the trans and diff, prem. blue in the motor (found some old stock CI-4+)

 

[timbo]

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? Could possibly be gelling? -10 is pretty cold!!

 

[bnbrown]

Sure do, key on it jumps up to 13-15psi, then drops back down to 0 by the time to start, pump is getting a little old (think it is almost 1 yr) only holds about 10psi under normal conditions, drops to 3 WOT.
I run B20 in it most of the time, and keep a bottle of diesel 911 in case. . but so far have not had any problems with the fuel.

 

[timbo]

I run bio also and have found it smokes just as you describe for just a few sec ondes. I also live in pa and the coldest i see is 15 anymore. Bio has a higher flash point than diesel. I would try cutting out the bio to see if cures it.

 

[mhenon]

... I run B20 in it most of the time, and keep a bottle of diesel 911 in case. . but so far have not had any problems with the fuel.

Maybe the fuel is your problem. I've run B20 before and the engine like it just fine. When winter hit though I would cut it down to no more than B2.

It might just be your biofuel gelling slightly and plugging the filter. Try a tank full of D#2 once and see if your starting problem goes away.

Mike

 

[bnbrown]

I fueled up with regular dino-diesel, but burned through it before it got cold again
I have noticed the Bio smokes a little more on cold startup, also has a little stronger scent to the smoke from cold burned bio...
I like to run it as it is a few cents cheaper... and gotta keep the soybean farmers busy. Will try Dino-diesel again when it gets cold again (was 45* yesterday! t-shirt weather and actually breaking a sweat loading my Hay auction winnings).
I also checked for codes, none... had batts disconnected for about 48hours a month ago to replace the AC Evap and Heater core... so nice to have heat again... the ice forming inside the truck was getting old (while driving)