Hard start after fuel filter change

[Davison]

Did my first fuel filter change and it all went as it should, except:



1. The new filter had an O ring. My factory unit did not. I put the o ring on the screw on lid. Seemed okay.



2. I ran the pump 6 cycles and tried to start the engine. After several minutes of trying (giving the starter a rest at the right intervals) in frustration I pumped the accelerator like mad and cranked hard. It FINALLY caught.



I was wondering: What did I do wrong, or is this normal?



Thanks!

 

[Pogodually]

Hate to ask a stupid question, but did you add fuel to a clean and dry filter. Then pump the plunger a few pumps to add or completely fill the bowl. Has to be full of fuel or else won't start.



Hope it is as simple as lack of fuel.



Good luck

 

[csutton7]

Davison---when you say cycle--do you mean turn key on and then off or did you turn key on and bump the starter each time???----



as stated it's a smart idea to pre fill the filter cannister first, but you really don't have to--or anyway I don't, I just bump the starter a few times so the pump runs 20-30 seconds and that should fill the filter---chris

 

[JPittman]

Don't feel bad, I had Cummins West change mine, and the tech could not get it started after doing all the right things. He finally got his computer and got it started using the computer and the software. Just glad I was there and not somewhere else.

 

[Ladders]

Cost?

JPittman;

Out of comparison, how mucho did the Cummins shop charge to change it? Nice to know how much we that do it save!



\\BF//

 

[JPittman]

Ben,



The fuel filter is $17. 52 & labor is $48. 83. I know I can do this myself but glad I had Cummins do it since the only way they could get it started was with their computer. They're close to my work and it's more of a peace of mind thing since it always seems to be hard to start after a filter change. This is a 99 3500. The tech has figured a way of putting the new style filter on this and when he does his, I'll look at it and probably do it too.

 

[Davison]

Pogo:



Yes, I think so... ...



First I drained the canister. (I noted that I'd like to get a longer plastic hose to be able to direct that old fuel more accurately to a container rather than all over the front diff!)



Then I used the 1 1/4 socket to open the filter canister.



Removed the old filter, comparing it to the one I had to be sure I had the right one... .



Put the o ring on the lid and re-assembled.



I then bumped the starter a total of six cycles. Upon bumping it, I could hear the electric fuel pump working. Seemed to cycle about 15 or 20 seconds, then I'd repeat.



I'm curious, should I have opened the fuel filter drain as it is filling up with fuel?



If not, where does the air go?



Knowing how to change the filter is critical to me. I've driven diesel for over 17 years and I've had several filters clog on me for various reasons. I ALWAYS keep at least one spare in the truck! A fuel filter change can be the difference between being stuck, and back on your way!



Thanks for any and all input!

 

[Ron Bissett]

Filter change

Originally posted by JPittman

Ben,



The fuel filter is $17. 52 & labor is $48. 83. I know I can do this myself but glad I had Cummins do it since the only way they could get it started was with their computer. They're close to my work and it's more of a peace of mind thing since it always seems to be hard to start after a filter change. This is a 99 3500. The tech has figured a way of putting the new style filter on this and when he does his, I'll look at it and probably do it too.

ONe Time should be par for the course , don't let them change the filter housing as the one on the 99 has two test port plugs and can easy made to add pressure guages and a fine place to bleed air from system chang filter, bleed and start under twenty min cost filter app 12 $ and s&h 3 $ Do it one time and you will not let any one do it after you see how you have ben wasting money . one thing I found is to only drain a small amount of fuel and then remove filter wire hook up turn can and remove . LOOK at what is in can to see how filter has removed any crud and see if any alge is in system . save old filter if you don't have a new spare (if not cloged you can still use it till new filter is avalible . instructions on new filter . If you don't save filter at least save O rings they may be needed some time . small dab of lube on o ring and wrap and store . saves anguesh later. P. S the new filters have plastic tops . New inproved ? LOL

 

[tmacc]

I just charged mine this evening. They are very similar to the PSD system. Don't re-use the o-ring. They swell from the fuel and can be a bear to re-install. That's why they give you a new one. One tip on re-starting. After you've bumped the starter several times, hold the peddle down about half way. This always seems to work for me. FWIW The manual says that you can safely crank the starter for 30 sec. Look at your watch. 30 sec. is along time. Allow adequate time between cranking for the starter to cool. Piece of cake.

 

[work2muchplay2little]

Haven't seen a late model filter housing, but do you have a port to bleed air post-filter while the lift-pump is running? On mine, I do this until only fuel comes out - usually only takes twice and fires right up.

 

[WyoJim]

Kurt is right

We have two 98 24 valves. Just changed a fuel filter. Cracked the post filter plug. Turned the key on then off, then bumped the starter for the second cycle to happen. Started squirting fuel in about 15 seconds. Tightened the plug and it started right up.



Quick fill up like that has to mean the lift pump is in pretty good shape.

 

[tmacc]

Kurt and Jim,

The 01s and I assume the 00, don't have the bungs at the top of the filter housing. The filter canister top unscrews and that is how you replace the filter. Hence, nothing to bleed the air when the lift pump is running. But, really after 3 bumps on the starter and the peddle held down half way, Mine never fails to start. At least in the 4X that I changed it. Of course it will probably bite me in the a$$ next time I change it for making such a boastful statement. LOL When I "checked" my injectors, I used the same procedure and it started right up. I mean I cranked it for about 20-30 seconds and it started right up.

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[Missouri Mule]

Why are you bumbing starter when priming fuel pump?



On my 99 freightliner ( the big trucks get new toys first) it has the srew off filter cap. Yes 24 valve 5. 9 Cummins.



Because it has electric fuel pump the engine manual states to turn ignition to run position for 25 seconds and that should refill fuel canister.

Have had problems restarting it but air finally exits system.



Also I don't know if it will do it when cranking starter but if you open drain valve while engine is running you have turn off engine to shut valve.



I will have to re-read engine manual to see about any bleed screws( air outlet). I know for air in system and hard to start it suggest while cranking engine unloosening(until fuel is seen-then re-tighten) injectors one at time untill engine starts. (I have used that method once when I ran it out of fuel and it works).

 

[AggieJustin]

I'm not sure if it is different Freightliners or not... but on the Dodge, if you don't bump the starter the pump only runs a couple of seconds. When you turn the key to run, it runs a few seconds and stops. When you bump the starter it runs for 30-45 seconds to fill the filter canister.



And just for my $0. 02, if I don't have any clean fuel to fill the canister with before replacing the filter, I'll cycle the pump three or four times then try starting with my foot halfway into the go pedal. This hasn't failed me yet...



JRM