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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Hard Start in Cold Temps

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My truck continues to have extreme hard-start problems in cool temperatures, even at temperatures as high as 30 to 35 degrees, and even after cycling the grid heater 2 to 3 times. Each attempt ends up in a huge cloud of white smoke.



I've had it to the dealer several times in the past year and a half -- each time I'm told the grid heater is working fine. When I turn the key to cycle it, I do hear a "click" when the "wait to start" light goes out, so I assume that means it is working. However, before this problem started, I could see my lights dim and amps drop when the grid heater cycled as I drove away from a cold start -- IT DOES NOT DO THIS ANYMORE!!! It certainly seems to act as though the grid heater is not doing its job!



Prior to October 2002, it started perfectly in temperatures as cold as the teens. That's when I had TSB 18-019-01 performed for cold idle engine warming. I've since read that TSB is only approved for automatic transmissions. I have the 6 speed manual. Could this explain why I've not seen any of the "cold idle engine warming" features work? Could this also be the cause of the hard-start conditions that have occurred ever since?



Should I have the cold idle engine warming TSB "reversed"? It isn't working anyway...



Is there some other troubleshooting I can try? I've already checked grid heater relays, and connections are fine. Anything else before I resort to going back to the dealer?
 
It certainly sounds like your grid heaters are not working properly. Those things draw a lot of voltage so you should see a draw on the voltmeter & the lights should dim. I believe there are two grid heaters so maybe just one is working.

Mine ( '99 2500) starts fine on 1 heat cycle down to -10. It isn't happy but it starts.

Good luck,

Brian in NH
 
I agree with BDMiller. Sounds like the grids aren't working. You may be hearing the relay but the grids themselves might be shot. It should crank with no problem at 30-35 without a lot of white smoke.
 
Song dog, check the relay, its below the drivers side battery, sometimes its as simple as a loose connection. The same thing happened to me and it was a loose nut.
 
I've already checked all relay connections on the grid heater, but just did it again to be sure. Tight as a drum.



But, for the heck of it, I opened the fuse box under the hood. I noticed a relay and a 40 amp fuse, both referred to as "fuel heater diesel". I pulled the fuse, and the wire was broken (not burnt).



What the heck is a fuel heater? Have anything to do with my hard-starts in cold temperatures?
 
If you can get to a shop that has a scan tool. I have used a Snap-on scanner and you can cycle the heaters on and off independantly to see witch on is working and witch is not. They do draw a lot of juice if you doubt your volt gauge hook up a Multi meter to the batterys and see what you are getting. If I am not mistaken they only cycle 1 heater on at a time due to the hight loads.



Craig
 
fuel heater

The fuel heater is just that. It warms the fuel before it enters the filter. This thins the fuel to improve flow and helps prevent fuel filter clogging in jelling conditions. It is not the same as the intake heaters. They warm the air in the intake manifold.
 
Thanx, WestTN. I'll replace the fuel heater fuse and note any changes in a cold start-up. I'm not real optimistic, though. Fuel shouldn't gel at 30 to 35 degrees. I agree, though, this does nothing for the grid heaters.



If the dealer insists the grid heaters are working, is it possible that something is not telling them to cycle? Like, maybe the ECM? Remember, this seemed to start when they reprogrammed the ECM with the cold idle engine warming TSB.



What about the IAT (intake air temperature sensor)?
 
I believe the TSB for 3 cylinder idle was put out as a ETC item and not ETH but nobody seems to know why. I do know there are people that have had it done with the HO. Now with the High Idle/3 cylinder idle the grid heaters should be in no way be affected. As far as it not working how cold has it been? I usually have to see under 25 f. without the truck plugged in and sitting out all night (12 hours) for it to activate. Then down to 5 or 10 f. for the 3 cylinder thing to happen. Seems like the biggest problem with this program not working is techs not fully reading the procedure and not enabling the program. This is what happened to me and countless others on this board. In the end I had to show the tech how to enable the program.



For the grid heaters, if your ammeter isn't moving and your lights aren't dimming you have one of two different conditions, either the sensor that tells the grids to come on doesn't work right or the grid circuit is open somewhere. If the dealer says the grids work, then that may be the case, but the truck isn't seeing the right temperature. Go somewhere with a scan tool that can see these values and have them check it and replace the parts yourself it'll be cheaper.
 
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