Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) hard start, put air to system?

[MHalloran]

I posted a thread not long ago about a hard start, then a stall. I've repaired the stall issue with a new overflow valve. That's half the problem solved. I cannot visually detect a fuel leak in my marine hose supply line or anywhere around the lift pump or my not present (got rid of it a few years ago) fuel heater. Any help with this? Put air to tank to push fuel out of possible leak? Best way to do this? Any input is appreciated..... Mike

 

[PToombs]

Put a blow gun in the filler with a rag and blow gently. It won't take a lot before you'll hear the tank balloon some. When you let off, hold the rag to let the pressure bleed out slowly. Sometimes fuel will spray back out a little if you let it out quick. You will want to hold a little pressure on it for a minute or so to give it a chance to seep out of any cracks in the hose. Be sure to look close where the hose is pulled into a tight turn, that stresses it and causes cracks.
Good luck!

 

[MHalloran]

Put a blow gun in the filler with a rag and blow gently. It won't take a lot before you'll hear the tank balloon some. When you let off, hold the rag to let the pressure bleed out slowly. Sometimes fuel will spray back out a little if you let it out quick. You will want to hold a little pressure on it for a minute or so to give it a chance to seep out of any cracks in the hose. Be sure to look close where the hose is pulled into a tight turn, that stresses it and causes cracks.
Good luck!

Pete, has LarryB's marine hose been known to wear out & crack? (any marine hose for that matter) That's what I used for the full run supply & return from tank to engine. I did this job 3 or 4 years ago. Didn't make any tight bends with install... . Thanks... ... ... ..... Mike
.

 

[PToombs]

Mike, any hose can deteriorate after a while. Blow it up and see what happens. It may be leaking someplace else too. One step at a time.

 

[MHalloran]

Yes Pete thanks! Gonna try this coming weekend to get into it. Will let you know how it goes... ... ... Mike

 

[MHalloran]

Well here's what I found. Stuck my head up in between frame & bed to get a look at top of fuel module. Was dry but didn't look too healthy. Kinda rusted looking. Sucks cuz I replaced this thing already a few years back. Blew it off then wiped it down. Had my son apply air to tank while I kept eyes on it & damn!! While pressed up, fuel shot out of a couple pin holes in the 3/8 supply tube coming out of the module about a half inch up. So I guess this would definitely give me my hard start issue huh? I gues this will make it stall too after it idles for about 2 minutes or so huh? Opinions anyone? Guess this means it's time for another new module... ... . ugh#@$%!

 

[GAmes]

There are a lot of 2nd gens going to the boneyard. If you have a u-pull-it yard near you it could be worth the trip. New modules apparantly are gold plated.

 

[MHalloran]

There are a lot of 2nd gens going to the boneyard. If you have a u-pull-it yard near you it could be worth the trip. New modules apparantly are gold plated.

Well I gotta say this brother, first of all thanks for the reply. Secondly, maybe down in your neck of the woods 2nd gens are more plentiful in the boneyards but up here where I'm at you just don't see ANY 2nd gen diesels in scrapyards. They don't seem to make it that far. Gassers as well. Wish I could locate one then I'd be pickin' at it. I priced them on Internet & the cheapest module was $250. The dealer I think is out of the question. Other ideas anyone? Thanks in advance... ... ... . Mike

 

[GAmes]

Oh, I never see diesels here either, but if I'm not mistaken a module from a gasser would work if you remove the fuel pump. An easier solution perhaps is a draw straw. Just don't cut it too short.

 

[PToombs]

Glad you found it Mike! There is a company that makes replacement inserts like the part that rotted out. IIRC, they are about $160, no way I was paying that much. I put epoxy on mine for a temporary fix. It was the middle of winter and I needed the truck to get to work. Last fall I decided I was going to fix it right. I spent several days trying come up with a solution. Gassers are different, or at least the newer ones are. I had access to an '01 tank and the module was far too different to use. I ended up making a bulkhead type fitting from a compression fitting and fuel line from the auto parts store. I won't do that again, I spent too much time and was not happy with the result. I couldn't bend the lines tight enough and the suction line was hitting the box cross member. I won't even get into trying to connect the plastic line in the module. In the end, I would buy that insert if I had to do it again. I painted the lines and top of the module area with several heavy coats of paint, then used spray grease on top after it was connected to help protect them from the elements.

 

[MHalloran]

It's amazing how the tiniest pin hole in the fuel supply can give you such grief. Truck will crank so long so that you have visions of your batteries power dwindling down to nothing. While the crank gets weaker, the truck finally stumbles to life amid white clouds of smoke & rough idle. Oh man this experience just kills you. Another $252 later in a new fuel reservoir module & I've kissed this problem goodbye. Hard start issue has been defeated. Truck jumps to life now with with simple key twist. Thanks to you Pete & GAmes for your assistance. My beloved Cummins thanks you as well. Mike



Oh & I almost forgot to mention, the new module came minus the breather check valve device in the top. Just a hole there. Had to carefully cut the one out of the bad module & re-use it. It worked out but you'd think you shouldn't have to go through this.....

 

[GAmes]

Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet. Glad you got it fixed.

 

[PToombs]

Glad you got it fixed Mike. It just sucks when you need the truck and it won't run. I hope you goobered the top of the module with something to slow down the rust or prevent it.