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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Hard Start when hot

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Hello all,
I've been digging through the forums for quite some time now (months) and am trying to hold on to hope that I am not in need of a new VP44.
My truck runs great!! Just mounted a fuel gauge on it and it's reading 12psi idle and 8-10 psi wot (pre filter, oops - I'll be switching the port this afternoon).
It starts like a champ cold.
When I lean on it for a spell and have the truck up to temp (again, it drives great). I get to my destination, park it..... go to start about 30 mins after it has been sitting, and poof - it will not ignite (like it has no fuel to it). It cranks and cranks.
**If I start it right after I park, it will usually start right back up - only when it sits for a bit will this happen.

I've gone through:
1. New batteries,
2. Alternator
3. Starter contacts (The Gould kit from Geno's)
4. Fuel filters
5. Fuel filter housing heater o-ring saga (yes it was leaking - thought that was the cure 4 months ago)
6. and now the FP gauge

Not sure what my next step could be. I really feel like I'm losing prime in the system when it sits, but can't trace this to anywhere.

I've now read Bluechip's diagnosis and see that the heat puts a licking on the IP computer and until now, didn't think this was a factor.

After about 2 hours of sitting and more stress on batteries/starter/truck than should ever be (as well as the please start dance outside of my truck in public) - she will fire up and run like a champ again!!

I know this is a similar post as so many out there in the TDR world, but I'm looking for the needle in the stack that will end this battle.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm putting business on hold today and heading home now to get dirty on the rig once again - hope I can catch something I missed.
Thanks everyone here for all of the information and assistance you have posted. I'll keep mine up to date on the findings.
Thanks,
Erik

***more stuff:
1. Showing code P0380 - Intake Air Heater Relay 1 Control Circuit Malfunction
2. When bumping the starter (or cranking on it like I'm not supposed to), the fuel gauge gets to 12 PSI, then when the LP cuts off, the pressure drops - is this normal or is this the sign of a loss of prime?
3. **In desperation as I'm sitting in a parking lot with WIFI and dead in the water - I read BlueChips VP44 Diag once again and have poured cold water on the pump without any result - Following that, I angrily threw the empty bottle at the engine and this also resulted in nothing.
 
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I had a truck do this at work and when I hooked up a fuel gauge to It if I waited untill pressure dropped to 0 then it would start. Try that. It was a bad VP
 
more news:

Found a tiny drip from the o rings on the fuel filter drain assembly. Replaced o rings on this and went to get the truck running. Can't get prime to the #1, #3 locations. Have fuel spraying out at 12 psi through #4 and #5 though... ... been bumping for a bit now. Any thoughts?
 
I've had two trucks with that problem. I found I could get them to start by unplugging the temperature sensor beside the thermostat housing, starting the truck and then plugging the sensor back in. The cure in both of my cases was replacing the VP pump.



Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 
right on Nigel - took a bit, but fired up. Went for a nice test drive and all was well. Parked the truck and sat for 45 mins - right back to the beginning. Ugghhh
Thanks Nigel,
Erik
 
So, I'm still at a loss here. If I finally get the truck to fire up after some intense cranking when hot or, usually right up when cold (went out this morning and it started right up), can this still be the VP? I've killed 2 pumps prior to this and both times were on the road while driving and CLANK, it just died - never went through this issue.
Just grabbing for straws here.
Thanks,
Erik
 
We had a truck come in that had five ip's installed on it for this same exact symptom. By all intents and purposes it looked like it needed another We got dodge to monitor it (they have way more diagnostic software than any independant shop) and it turned out to be a bad ECM.

I would reccomend shopping around for a dealer your comfortable with and have them hook it up. If it needs an ECM they will have to flash it anyhow.
 
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