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Got a hard starting problem on my 03. It starts fairly quick when cold but when hot it can crank up to 10 seconds before starting. On occasion I have had to crank it twice before it starts. I was told to check the injector leak back. I have ordered the cap nut from Cummins to test the injectors. Anyone done this procedure before and have any tips on the process?
 
Thanks Andres,

I appreciate the info. I am also curious about injectors. I see threads talking about 50 hp to 120 hp injectors. I'm assuming they are larger and just deliver more fuel. Is there any articles in the newsletter to get more information on them?
 
Got a hard starting problem on my 03. It starts fairly quick when cold but when hot it can crank up to 10 seconds before starting. On occasion I have had to crank it twice before it starts. I was told to check the injector leak back. I have ordered the cap nut from Cummins to test the injectors. Anyone done this procedure before and have any tips on the process?

got a Part# for the cap or size? didnt know they had one always pulled all 6 and had em tested:mad:
 
Thanks Andres

I meant to send you a message earlier. It is injector 1 that is giving me trouble. Funny thing though... the starting problem is better since then. Not back to normal but still cranks for about 4-5 seconds. Only a couple incidents when it cranked longer than 10 seconds. I haven't had time to put the injector yet. I'll have time next weekend.



Thanks again for the info,
 
My problem started the same as yours. I guess at first you don't notice the little bit longer cranks even when cold. When warm however it just kept getting worse. Long story short, injectors were all leaking. Sent to Industrial Injection for a rebuild and upgrade to 60hp and lets just say that i'm not regretting it. Total process took four days. Now i've got my old "one crank and fire" truck back
 
I would say don't ignore the hard-starting issue. I did for awhile, but yesterday I stopped my truck while it was hot, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, and it would not turn over at all, no matter how much I cranked on it. It finally cranked off after I let it sit awhile more, but this is getting serious. It's not fixed yet and I'm perusing these pages before I do anything else. Thanks for the tip on leaking injectors. Sounds like injector cleaners won't do any good.
 
Out of curiosity, if I have to use starting fluid to get the engine to crank, should I shoot it into the intake tube while cranking? Kinda hard to do unless there are two people doing it.
 
OK, so it's more complicated than removing the aFe air cleaner and shooting it down the tube. I'm thinking it was like we used to do with carburetors. Remove the air cleaner and shoot a little gasoline directly into it.
 
It may be just me, but with the starting grid heater arrangement on our gen 3 trucks I would not use starting fluid (either) without disconnecting the grid heater. I've used starting fluid to re-seat tire beads and the pop is pretty impressive! I think using starting fluid with the grid heater active would be very exciting!!!
 
Thanks, Andres, you seem like you know what you're talking about. Mine definitely starts better cold than hot. In fact, I plugged it in last night (I live in Colorado) and it almost didn't start this morning. I'm leaving it out tonight and will take it back to the dealer tomorrow. They still seem amenable to fixing it.
 
For sure on all counts, especially God's country. (If God doesn't live in Colorado, this is where he spends most of His time. Sorry... ) This is beautiful country, but here at 9,000 feet we've already had our first snow (Sept. 20). It's supposed to snow again Thursday night. I love it here, love the cold, clear air, mountains, etc. , but after 30+ years I am growing weary of plowing snow out of my 100-yard-long driveway. Your friend in Canon City, at an elevation of 4800 feet, has a better time of it. But would I live somewhere else? No, I'd just like to live lower where there's less snow. But I gotta get this Dodge fixed... can't have it not start out on a snowy highway somewhere... . Love the truck, love the mileage, but don't gimme a truck that won't start when you need it too. BTW, I copied some of your very well-written responses so I could "educate" the dealer tomorrow. Hope you didn't mind.
 
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A bad injector, or more than one, can cause the hard starting. You can cap them off one at a time with Cummins part #3164325, as others have noted. Another source would be a leaky fuel overflow valve on top of the rail. The valve is more likely to fail if you have been running a pressure box and high rail pressures.
 
Thanks, Joe, as I write I am sitting in Perkins Dodge in Colorado Springs. They're working on the truck right now and your comment comes at a good time.
 
As someone else said: BINGO!

TDR writer Joe Donnelly, Andres and others hit the nail on the head! The dealer replaced the No. 1 and 2 injectors with what they called "new remanufactured" injectors, drove it so they would set, and proclaimed the engine fixed. Right now I'd have to agree because she sure starts like she's supposed to. Anybody got a beef with the "new reman" injectors?

Thanks again to all who responded. The TDR is the go-to place to get answers. The shop foreman at the dealership poo-poo'd the "stuff people get on the Internet," and I'm sure there is a lot of garbage out there and they much prefer doing their own analysis. I understand that, but the TDR comments hit the nail on the head and I didn't hesitate to say so.
 
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Not a chance. The shop's too big to have customers wandering around in the back. Plus, they're safety conscious and concerned that someone might trip or slip on grease, that sort of thing. I have a good relationship with the shop foreman (and service writer, of course), but I wouldn't ask either of them for permission to go back where the mechanics work. They pretty well take care of me anyway and I like having them on my side as long as the warranty is in effect. I just hope the "new reman" injectors they put in are OK.
 
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