Hard starting

[Mak]

Help..... 95 cummins. From one day to the next, truck started starting hard. I changed the fuel filter but that didn't help. There are no leaks in return line. It was suggested that the booster pump may be failing. Any ideas?

 

[JJW_ND]

Does it help if you hold the "gas" pedal down a little?

If it does set your idle up a 100 - 200 RPMS.

The other thing to make sure is that the fuel shutoff solinoid is woriking properly. With the key in the run position, push the solinoid up. It should stay up by itself. Solinoid is on the driver side of the engine half way back towards the top. The wires from a large wire connector setting ontop of the fuel filter run to this solinoid. If the solinoid stays up and the truck starts fine, you could clean the solinoid, or replace the relay that powers it on the firewall.

jjw
ND

 

[illflem]

Even if your return line doesn't appear to be leaking fuel it could very well be allowing air in. Your symptoms sound exactly like the problem. New line will only cost a few bucks and some four letter words but may solve the problem.

 

[Mak]

Hi Guys..... JJW, I checked the solenoid and it seems to do the right thing... . Illflem, you must be the devil in disguise with your suggestion of changing those hoses. I went to Dodge to see haw much they would nail me to do the change... . $200... so I bought the hose and than looked at the job. Oh my... I couldn't see much from above so I put the rig on stands. Oh boy, now I can see the end of one line and clamp. Am I just a whoos or is there a method to this? It looks like taking the starter out might work but who wants to do that. One thing I did notice. The 3/8 hard line that comes into a braided line under the truck had oil(diesel)on it at the connection. This connection is kind funny. . something I've not seen before. The hard line terminates in a bell. This seems to be some sort of flex joint as there is movement... at least I hope it's supposed to move..... Any comments, tricks???

 

[Evan A. Beck]

If the return/supply hoses on your truck are original, REAPLCE them, regardless of mileage. I have seen too many of them cause problems. Also, before condemning the mechanical lift pump, take a look at your fuel pressure. Should be around 17-20 psi at idle, and raise gradually as RPM increases. Look for a peak of aboput 26 -29 psi. Also, check out the overflow valve. If it is not functioning properly, it could be causing hard starting. One last thing to check is how fast the fuel pressure comes up if you pinch off the return line for a few seconds. If it spikes to 60+ psi fast, then the lift pump should be ok. If it gradually comes up, then you have a lift pump problem, and it is time for a replacement.

Hope this helps... #ad

 

[illflem]

Peter, tuff one ehh? The way I've found easiest to replace the hoses is to remove the fuel filter and the two nuts that hold on the brake master cylinder. The cylinder will then swing out of the way towards the drivers side even though it looks like it is plumbed in tight. Now if you lay on top of the engine you can reach down to the hose clamp. Many folks have said that the upper and lower clamps take a different size wrench, I've never noticed because I just use end cutters and cut them off and replace. Your arms will be cut up and you will cuss at why something could be in such a god awful place but you will save a good chunk of money doing it yourself, it is doable with perseverance. The price you were quoted must be for both hoses, the dealer here charges $110 to replace just the return line, a $2 part. Most CTD mechanics I've talked with say it is their least favorite job.

Evan, glad to hear a professional say that the idle psi is below 20. Many people seem to think that it needs to be higher and that more is better, your numbers are right on.




[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 05-25-2001). ]

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Illflem, you are right on about the "least favorite" job thing... It flat out sucks. However, it is a breeze when there's no transmission in there! #ad

 

[Mak]

Gentleman, thanks for info. I guess it's time for the blood letting ritual. Cheers

 

[jmeehan]

Originally posted by Evan A. Beck:
However, it is a breeze when there's no transmission in there! #ad

Sounds like a good excuse to BOMB the transmission or clutch to me.


------------------
ex Ford tech, now driving Patriot Blue '01. 5 2500 4X4 QC LB ETH/DEE SLT 3. 54. Muffler, silencer ring & door badges N/A.

 

[Mak]

This is a test... .

 

[Mak]

Howdy again... ... Thank you all for your help. Illflem, it sure wasn't $200 worth but it wasn't fun either. Moving the master cylinder was probably key to the whole operation. Now the next step. I do not see a stand-alone 10mm bolt on the filter holder. I have two banjo fittings. On top of the one closest to the firewall is another line and bolt. Is this the one I need to bleed the system? By the way, lots of fine cracking on the rubber line. Sure hope this fixes the problem..... Pete