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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) hard starting

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) transmission Temp

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Spin on fuel filter?

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I'm having a problem starting my truck all of a sudden... if it sits for a day when I go to start it, it will fire then stall then I have to give a little throttle and when it fires there's lots of white smoke... does this sound like a losing the prime type of thing if so where do i look first? other than that it will fire ok all day, it acts up just when it sits for 24hrs... ...
 
Originally posted by bmoeller

Low idle speed? Bad rubber fuel lines letting in air?



Idle speed is 950rpm if it were rubber fuel line wouldnt it do it at every start?only does it after sitting for a day.....
 
I use a tractor that has small external fuel injection leak (can't talk boss into getting it fixed). Sometimes it starts hard (lots of times I wind up using the primer pump to help bleed it a little or to pressurize it). Other times it starts right up like it was new without doing anything to it. Your idle speed sounds fine.
 
Common problem

A leak in the fuel return portion of the fuel system can allow air to enter the injection pump when parked overnight or longer. The area to inspect is the 5/16" rubber hose that connects to a steel line near the back of the injection pump and passes behind the fuel filter ending at a steel line on top of the bell housing. Replace the line if it is leaking or leaking is suspected. It can suck air without leaking fuel.
 
Re: Common problem

Originally posted by illflem

A leak in the fuel return portion of the fuel system can allow air to enter the injection pump when parked overnight or longer. The area to inspect is the 5/16" rubber hose that connects to a steel line near the back of the injection pump and passes behind the fuel filter ending at a steel line on top of the bell housing. Replace the line if it is leaking or leaking is suspected. It can suck air without leaking fuel.





Would that be the unexpected drop in idle rpm also it dropped frpm 950 to 650 I had to adjust it up.....
 
I think the idle change was a was a seperate problem. It's not uncommon for the idle to drop due to wear where the metal adjustment parts come together. It takes very little wear to drop the idle.
 
Originally posted by illflem

I think the idle change was a was a seperate problem. It's not uncommon for the idle to drop due to wear where the metal adjustment parts come together. It takes very little wear to drop the idle.





Thanks for the help Bill... ... Rick
 
I checked the hose they look to be in good condition no cracks or checking... I wonder if it could be the grid heater... ... I dont see it cycling when I start the truck and Im pretty sure it use to, even in warm weather..... I put a test light on the terminals at the heaters and shows no voltage on either... there is voltage going to the solinoid but nothing come out... ... . Any input? and if so where to start... ...
 
I had similar problem. Ended up it was the steel line that runs along the bell housing. Wasn't a terribly big hole but it was enough.
 
When I've encountered cracked steel lines the top of the bell housing is diesel wet if you crawl under and feel around. Easiest and much cheaper solution is to abandon the steel lines and run hose all the way to the tank if a line is cracked.
 
Originally posted by illflem

When I've encountered cracked steel lines the top of the bell housing is diesel wet if you crawl under and feel around. Easiest and much cheaper solution is to abandon the steel lines and run hose all the way to the tank if a line is cracked.



I checked the lines running back to the tank and no signs of fuel leaking... . the flexible stainless ones are oil soaked but does not smell like diesel fuel.....
 
I would try a new overflow valve first. I had what sounds like the same promlem as you after returning from Muncie. I put in a new overflow valve at 100,000 just for the hell of it. At 124,000 I started having the same promlems as you described so I decided to throw in the 100K old overflow valve and now the truck pops right off like she used to again.
 
rjones, I had a similar thing happen on my 97, turned out to be one of the two fender mounted relays that send juice to the grids. The grids were fine, but one of the relays went bad & I was starting hard on cool mornings with just one working. These relays are both mounted on a common metal bracket that bolts to the fender well. You have to buy the complete set, at the Dodge dealer, I couldn't find them anywhere else, I think they were about $65 or so. Fixed me right up.
 
I've come across the small trigger wires that push onto the screw terminals on the relays that Dennis speaks of disconnected on more than one rig. Good idea to lightly smash them with a pair of pliers and reinsert for a tighter fit.
 
I did a test on the sensor and its suppose to have a resistance of less than 1340 at running temp mine was at 2256 soooo I think it may be the sensor... ... I have one ordered and the solinoid just in case..... lets see what happenns
 
well The new sensor didnt fix the problem so put new solinoids on no go what is nex the pcm ?? when I touch a test light move the small terminal around it will light the test light then go out move it again, test light comes on then goes out... . what the heck is the deal?it like a breaker is tripping then imediataly comes back on
 
Ok guys help me out here I traced all wires leading to pcm all checked out... . I have power going to the solinoids all connections... . grids check out... ... ... . soooo there is the PCM... . my last resort... ... no trouble codes... ... I have a new sensor and solinoid... ... . when I take off the ground side of the solinoid trigger wire and have a test light hooked to the grid stud I put the wire back on you can hear the solinoid click, light comes on then shut off wiggle it again same thing... . PCM??? and the wires check out..... PLEASE I NEED HELP... ... . before I order a new PCM Friday. for 395. 00... ... .
 
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