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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Hard to start

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Edge Advantage CTS

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Hi guys

I got this new problem with my pickup, it's a 1996 12 valve. My starter was going bad on me so I changed it out. Now ever since I changed the starter out my pickup is really difficult to start. It cranks over fine but it acts like it is starving for fuel, it fires and dies three or four time and eventually it starts. something else is I need to push on the fuel peddle now to get it to start which I never had to do before. One other thing as well, now when I shut the ignition off my pickup continues to run for 1 or 2 seconds after the key is turned off.
 
Once the truck is up and running can you shut it off and fire it right back up with no problems or does it start hard everytime? If it is only when it has sat for a while I would look for any fuel leaks. Even the slightest leak will allow the fuel to siphon back to the tank after it sits for a while. Does not have to be pouring fuel while running to be a problem, if you have a damp line that's all it takes to create a hard start. If it is hard starting all the time you could have an isue with a lift pump. How does the truck run once you get it going?
 
I changed the fuel lines a few years back with the kit from larryB's. It runs fine once it starts. it just struck me as strange that it started right after I changed this starter out. It happens every time I turn it off.
 
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Check out the entire fuel system from injectors on back to the injection pump, lift pump, fuel canister, drain valve, all the way back to the top of the fuel tank. Check every fitting along the way. Also if you have a fuel pressure gauge make sure nothing there is wet. If the engine sounds like it is turning over as fast as it should (not lugging like a weak battery/bad starter) it is most likely a minor leak somewhere.
 
how about a sticky fuel solenoid shut off. Not a 12 valve guy but in my old heavy duty diesel days had this happen .
good luck.
 
how about a sticky fuel solenoid shut off. Not a 12 valve guy but in my old heavy duty diesel days had this happen .
good luck.

X2. To test it turn the ignition on but do not turn the engine over. With the ignition on, pull the lever all the way up on the fuel solenoid and it should hold there. Crank it and it should start as normal. A dying starter may have damaged the solenoid. Take a look here: http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge-12-valve-solenoid-saver-diode.html
 
Thanks for the input fellas. I checked my fuel solenoid and the dust boot was really rotten and sticky so i'm going to take it off tomorrow and clean it to see if that helps. another thing I forgot to mention in the first post is the old starter stuck ingauged a few times before I could change it out so I might have fried the solenoid as well. if so I will just buy a new one from larryB's and replace it and see if that fixes the problem.

Grant I did check it by pulling it up manually and yes it did stay in the up position and did start but when I shut it off it still ran a few seconds after I shut the key off again.
 
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If it runs 1-2 seconds after you turn the key to the off position, check the fuel shutoff solenoid. It shouldn't run at all if the fuel is shut off, period. If it isn't working correctly then you will have the symptoms that you are experiencing.
crabman
 
Crabman so what am I looking for? When I shut the key off the fuel solenoid should drop to the down position immediately right? Or is there another way to check it to see if it's shutting the fuel off?
 
Correct. And there is a correct measurement for the amount of travel for the shutoff. But I do not know what it is. Maybe someone else can remember what it is.
IMO for what its worth is yours is not in the +/_ ballpark. If it is working correctly, then the engine should die when the key is turned to the off position. And when you turn the key to the ON position it should lift up enough to open the passage ALL the way which it seems not to be doing. Thus>hard starting.
These engines are almost bullet proof with the exception of the owner/operators.
crabman
 
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Correct. And there is a correct measurement for the amount of travel for the shutoff. But I do not know what it is. Maybe someone else can remember what it is.



(From '98 SM) With solenoid in UP position, 66. 9mm (2. 64") from bottom of bracket to top of injection pump shutdown lever pin.
 
When it starts does it run fine, or does it run rough for a seconds? If it runs rough its probably air entering the fuel system. If it runs fine as soon as it starts than its probably fuel shut off system. Do not forget the relay on the fire wall. They can check out fine with a test light but wont allow enough current to pull up the fuel solenoid.
 
Yes it runs perfect as soon as it does start. I'm hoping that the measurement of the new one is pre adjusted to the right length when I buy it from LarryB's. if not I will just try to make it the same as the old one. I already replaced the fuel lines a few years back. And I replaced the relay as well but i'm going to replace that as well just in case its not working right. it's a cheap fix where as the solenoid is in the area of 150. 00. Mine is a 1996 12 valve.
 
Based on your symptoms I doubt it's the relay. When my relay was failing it was a crank/no start condition, not a crank/sputter condition that you described. It either started immediately as usual or it cranked and cranked... Like you said though, it is a cheap thing to eliminate and I even carry a spare in the glove box. My bet is still on the solenoid, even more so after your starter contacts stuck several times.
 
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