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harsh transition from forward to reverse

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Sometimes when I'm going from D to R I get a pretty harsh clunk. No other problems noted. Wiggled the driveshaft and it's tight so don't think U joints are an issue. No unusual driveline slop noted at speed going on and off throttle, and no strange noises. Truck has 18K on it with moderate towing and normal driving habits.



Is this just a common characteristic of the 6. 7/68RFE combination on a 2010 2500 4 x 4 CC w/3. 73 limited slip diff or should I have the local Mopar techs have a look?
 
Mine is the same also. It is more pronounced when in tow/haul mode as well. Not plesant! or reasuring that all is well, but apears to be normal?
 
My 2011 does it too... with only 1200 miles on it. First thing I noticed, drive to reverse, or vice versa. CLANK
 
If you are shifting while rolling, the torque in this set up is tremendous, it will be very noticeable. You should be shifting only while stopped. I have not experienced this if I am stopped, only when I get lazy and shift directions while moving, and yes it is harsh.
 
It will be harsh because the driveline is being wrapped up in drive and is still somewhat wrapped up when you stop. Then, when you shift into reverse, it unwraps and wraps up the other way, Try this, when shifting from drive to reverse or vice versa, stop momentarily in neutral so the driveline will relax before the opposite shft, works for me. Let us know how you make out...



Larry
 
Mine did the same thing do a few months while new. Intially, I was thinking I just needed to find the "right feel" while shifting. I don't know exactly when or why, but it went away. After a couple of more years (24K m) now it's back.
 
It will be harsh because the driveline is being wrapped up in drive and is still somewhat wrapped up when you stop. Then, when you shift into reverse, it unwraps and wraps up the other way, Try this, when shifting from drive to reverse or vice versa, stop momentarily in neutral so the driveline will relax before the opposite shft, works for me. Let us know how you make out...



Larry
yeppers this, and buy the lockout conversion to get rid of the fulltime hubs that load up the driveline, i cant stand full time anything, all it does is pop and wear out $600 cv driveshafts every 50k miles

es
 
I have the lockout hubs, but the clunk is still there. I is obviously all the play between the transmission, transfer case and rear diff.
 
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