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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Has this happened to you?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Whats the next step??

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) TPS problem solved...

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On the rear axle, on the hub itself, there is 8 bolts. . less than a month after I bought my truck, one of the heads fell off the bolt! a few months ago, one next to it broke off as well! Now, I have a fluid leak, and I am trying to figure out how to go about getting the broken bolts out, so I can get new ones in, and what size they are as well... Have any of y'all had problems with the bolts breaking off??



-Chris-
 
As for size I would take a good one out and check it. As for getting the broken ones out, I would start by soaking them down with penetrating oil everyday for a week, pull out the axle and see if there is enough to grab the end with a set of vise grips, if that doesn't work then drill a hole in them and try to back them out with a "QUALITY" screw extractor.
 
Place a washer over the broken bolt and weld it on though the washer's hole then weld a nut to the washer. The heat will make the bolt easy to remove.
 
illflem has the best way to get it done. Those bolts have a factory applied thread sealer on them that just about welds the bolts to the threads. I broke 2 off with a impact wrench before trying a long ratchet and turning them slowly to allow the sealer to release. Anu one that has used a impact wrench before you may have weeknd those bolts and they aint cheap at the steee,oops dealer either.
 
It's an old trick, I claim no credit for it. I found out about it after breaking numerous eze-outs.

I'm not sure what causes these bolts to break but it's pretty common, not just on our trucks. On rigs with painted hubs it's a good idea to check them occasionally, sometimes the head is broken off and just held on with paint.
 
UPDATE

Well, I got the 2 new bolts to replace the broken ones! I was putting them on when another POS grade 8 (supposedly) bolt breaks!!!!!! GRRRR this is making me very mad... . I had to get up, walk away, and have a beer to cool down. Hopefully it will be enough to hold with 1 gone...



-Chris-
 
well... atleast you are doing it the right way... WITH BEER!



You cannot work on a vehicle, or any sort of thing without a little *vitamin P*:D Gotta have my beer! Dang, all this beer talk, I think I am going to go grab one!



-Chris-
 
More problems

Well, had 2 more heads shear off the bolts today. . total of 5 holding it on. . I know this is dangerous, but I have no time to fix it, as I am about to go out the door on the way to work... this is really ticking me off, and I guess I am going to have to get 6 more bolts to replace both broken ones, as well as the old ones still on there.



-Chris-
 
A stitch..... in time....saves nine

I still think this is related to loose rear wheel bearings. The axle is now trying to hold things in a straight line and the weak part there happens to be the bolts. Take the time to look at this, because it could save you a lot of headache later.
 
Re: A stitch..... in time....saves nine

Originally posted by Steve Campbell

I still think this is related to loose rear wheel bearings. The axle is now trying to hold things in a straight line and the weak part there happens to be the bolts. Take the time to look at this, because it could save you a lot of headache later.



Steve,



Good point you have here.



Would jacking the axle up and taking weight off the wheel in question reduce the force on the bearings/bolts if it was wheel bearings out of adjustment?



Phil
 
Yes it would .....but.....

with the axle still bolted to the hub, you would not be able to "shake" the tire in and out, top to bottom to feel bearing play. You could however put a bar under the tire and pry up and watch for movement. However there would have to be substantial "play" in the bearings for it to show up this way.
 
There is definitely something else going on with your axle. The bolts should not be shearing off like you describe. You need to replace all of the bolts asap and check for loose bearings.



An interesting point that a lot of people don't understand about bolts used in applications like the axle flange it this, the bolts themselves should not be subjected to shear forces. The bolts are holding the two surfaces together and the friction between those surfaces not shear forces on the bolts keeps the surfaced from sliding. So the grade 8 bolts allow you to "clamp" those surfaces together with greater force.



If the bolts are actually shearing they should be broken very close to the surface of the hub. If there are other forces at play here they may be broken right under the head where the shear forces would not be.



LOL
 
At some point the bolts were loose and putting all of the of the drivetrain torque on them has weakened them. Replace them ALL.
 
I'm willing to bet someone has done a brake job, or some other repair and put the axel bolts in with a 1/2" impact wrench, streching the bolts. I'm am talking from experiance. Been there done that. The loose wheel bearing is another strong possibility. Like said above get ALL new bolts. I would suggest from DANA/Spicer supplier.



Hint, jack up the side of the truck you are working on, leaving the other side on the ground. Then you can remove the axel, clean it, remove the broken bolts, and install the new bolts without making a mess on your rims, or loosing much oil.



Michael
 
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