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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission HATE seeing RUST !

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GKarpen said:
Really, really Nice. I am just getting started on mine. Rust is bad here. I bought POR-15 for the task and I was going to follow the instructions. If you would pleae, what was your procedure for rust remediation? Thank U.

My cure? Totally remove it!! Clean the metal down til it's nice and shiney, when that's done wipe the bare metal with acetone, then I use PPG metal cleaner, then I use PPG metal conditioner- these treatments will protect the bare metal and it promotes etching qualities, next I like to use PPG DP-90 epoxy primer- then you can shoot your paints... ... ...

You don't have to use PPG products like I did- I preferr to use them though... ... .....
 
RacinDuallie- it looks awesome!



I love the silver look- I've been wanting to paint my frame with silver hammer paint for a while... I never have understood why so many people will rebuild a vehicle, and paint the entire undercarriage black- its impossible to see when you're working under it at the times that things seem to break the most- at night.



My frame looks like it had hardly any paint on it- and that has washed off from washing under the truck. Now its all surface rust on the frame, with some paint/oil/grease on the axles. I'll probably take the bed off at some point to get better access for painting the rear, and just do what I can on the front when I change out the trans/t-case.
 
When I stick my head underneath my truck body on the side that I have the new paint on and I can see every bolt head and component easily at night- the side I have to finish- can't see a dang thing but darkness!! When I'm done painting and I put back my amber l. e. d. 's I'm positive I'll see everything plain as day... ...
 
I'm just curious, why amber? I'd go for white, blue, or even green myself. :D





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Good Grief!!! :--) I just checked out your readers rigs pics, and wow is that engine shiny! Oo. What did you coat the exhaust manifold and turbo with? is it made for the heat? Just another thing I'd like to coat at some point... . :D
 
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sorry RD couldn't you go red or dark grey the silver looks like it was all just media blasted good work just a bad choice of color IMO maybey just the pics



How is the ramifold cumming
 
Willys said:
I'm just curious, why amber? I'd go for white, blue, or even green myself. :D


Edit:

Good Grief!!! :--) I just checked out your readers rigs pics, and wow is that engine shiny! Oo. What did you coat the exhaust manifold and turbo with? is it made for the heat? Just another thing I'd like to coat at some point... . :D

I like amber so I am legal. To comply with the laws- they cannot do anything to me because amber is a legal color running light- blue, purple, yellow, ect and they can pull you over and give you a ticket.....

:eek: I had a statey fly up on my back door, follow me- then completely circled around my truck all the while driving down the highway- and he pulled off- I was adhearing to the law so he couldn't ticket me for nothing!!:p :rolleyes: :-laf

The law requires running lights to be amber forward the rear wheels and red after- Look at a stock rear duallie fender extension- amber before- red after.




And that coating is JetHot Thermal Barrier Coating- and I just LOVE the stuff!!!- one of my addictions!:-laf
 
rivercat said:
sorry RD couldn't you go red or dark grey the silver looks like it was all just media blasted good work just a bad choice of color IMO maybey just the pics

How is the ramifold cumming


The color in the pics you see is not done yet..... I have to yet apply a clear coat- and I'm going to mix in something special with the first coat of clear- then staight clear afterwards for a couple of coats- so what you see is only a base color... ..... not done yet!

And like the thread that you read about my little project said I'm in the market for my own machining equipment- and I have located a closer place to me that does casting work and am in the process of a deal... ... ... . Don't worry I'm trying my best- this is my first venture in something of this nature and you have to be very cautious... on just about everystep you take, when doing something of this nature... ... I will keep everyone informed when the time draws near... ...
 
rivercat said:
sorry RD couldn't you go red or dark grey the silver looks like it was all just media blasted good work just a bad choice of color IMO maybey just the pics



I like the look of freshly blasted steel :D Oo.





RD, I figured it might have to do with something like that, but I wasn't sure if you only used your lights for show/servicing, or ran them down the road. I have a friend who is a local LEO- he looked up my states regulations. Apparently here red, blue and green are emergency service vehicles only. Other colors of lights and strobes are legal. Some of the white LEDs have a blueish tint to them though...



My brother was stopped in a parking lot for having blue neons behind his grille to illuminate it. :rolleyes: No flashing or anything going on. No citation was issued, but it scared him enough he threw them in the trash. :{



You'll have to get us some night-time pics when you get it all complete. Oo.
 
Willys said:
I like the look of freshly blasted steel :D Oo.
You'll have to get us some night-time pics when you get it all complete. Oo.

Me too!!( but the frame was not blasted)

Ohh I can't wait to see it done with lights and everything back in place!! And that shiny engine purring along too! Thanks for the compliments!
 
Wow, that looks incredible. When you say you "clean to bare metal" what do you mean, exactly? Are you media blasting it?



Of course, you realize now that it looks so nice you'll have a job on your hands keeping it looking nice!



-Ryan
 
rbattelle said:
Wow, that looks incredible. When you say you "clean to bare metal" what do you mean, exactly? Are you media blasting it?

Of course, you realize now that it looks so nice you'll have a job on your hands keeping it looking nice!

-Ryan

No media blasting- no sand blasting. Although those processes will work I didn't want to deal with the mess afterwards... .

I use a air powered right angle die grinder with one of them 3-m Rust buster wheels.
They work pretty good with a good supply of air from compressor. Just keep it moving as you are only trying to clean the surface not remove metal.

When I have a section done and bare I take a new clean rag with acetone soaked in and wipe away to remove all contaniments that could ruin your hard work later on... .

Then I use a special metal cleaner from PPG.

Then I use a metal conditioner that has etching abilities and this is the rust protection- once treated with this you could leave the metal prepped like this and continue with your work elsewhere- rust won't set in- the bare metal is protected.
I've left bare metal prepped this way outside for weeks on end and it stayed the same way- NO RUST. And untreated bare metal starts to rust right away.

Then I shoot a good primer base- I preferr to use PPG products- PPG DP-90 is a great epoxy primer.

When your ready to shoot your color or in my case a base color, take a red scotchbrite pad and lightly scuff the primer that is already layed down- doing this will promote additional adheasion to the primer. Be sure to blow off your work after scuffing, take a lightly damp- not soaked tack rag and lightly wipe down your work.

Shoot you color. You may have chosen a single stage paint that when it dries it's already shiny so you don't need an additional clear coat- I chose a double stage type paint as it dries with a non shiny finish- I am applying my own clearcoat after all the work is done.

I don't mind the additional cleaning when it's done because the results will speak for itself..... Flat colors and semi flat colors tend to hold onto dirt better than shiny surfaces so it shouldn't be all that bad- besides now that I can see everything great it should be easy to wipe off and clean.
 
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And you're doing all this without removing the body from the frame? How do you manage to clean the top of the frame rails?



-Ryan
 
Loosen the bolts holding the side I'm working on, lifting/ tilting body slightly and placing a block of wood to keep body in place. Not too bad... ...
 
RacinDuallie

would sand blasting give u the same results for the initial cleaning of the metal as using flapwheels and such?



(woops i should have 'completely' read all the posts... sorry)
 
GKarpen said:
Thanks for the reply and the instructions above. Where R U getting the 3M Rust Buster wheels? I have not seen them. What size die grinder? I have not bought a die grinder yet so this is why I am asking as they come in different size wheels. Your truck is beautiful.

Hey- thanks for the compliments!:D I pick up these 3-M wheels at Home Depot. I have to go again tonight for more wheels so I could probally take a pic of one for you all to see the actual wheels. I have an assortment of right angle mini die grinders- all air powered. The wheels I have been using are all the same size about 3 1/2".....
I think a pic would help you see exactly what I'm using, I will take one when I get back from work.



I should also take a pic of the PPG metal treatments that I use also- as they are key when working with raw-bare metal, and are vital in keeping the rust from setting back in... ...
 
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These are the PPG chemical treatments that I like for RUST prevention.

The PPG DX-579- is used to clean raw, bare, prepped metal. It removes all the oils and containiments from the metal.

The PPG DX-520- is the metal etching chemical that leaves a protective coating on the bare cleaned metal- and etches into the metal.
 
Here is one of the air powered Rt. angle Die Grinder setups in my arsenal, with wheel installed. 3M makes wheels like this and Norton Abrasives also has wheels like this. Cost about $6. 50 each. I like to grab a handful for stock at the garage.
 
Here's another tip: Don't throw the old used wheels out! I save them and like to have an assortment of sizes to work with, sometimes you need a worn down wheel to fit in tight places where a new large wheel won't fit into... In my case I disconnect the air, grab another rt. angle die grinder already set-up with wheel and connect air and continue working... ...
 
GKarpen said:
Many thanks for all of the info and your time.

Hope this helps you out. :)

The job is a different one- and it may seem like a big undertaking, but once you start progressing and you get some areas painted so you can get an idea on what the finished results will look like- then you look forward to working on completing the taskOo. .
 
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