Have a problem.... any ideas

[Headshot zod]

A couple of times in the last few weeks. My engine wouldn't start. If would spin fast enough but not kick over. Then today I killed the battery trying to start it. It was old so I popped in a new one. But the problem seems to be there still. Although now its really spinning fast. I don't think its the fuel filter. Less then 1k on it. Any ideas?

 

[dodgenstein]

Possible fuel shutoff solenoid problem? Try cleaning/tigtening the spade terminals first, then gutting the solenoid and trying it then. You will have to use the manual lever to shut it off after removing the solenoid parts.

 

[DKasper]

That's where I'd start. You could also crack an injector line to see if there is any fuel getting to the injectors -- it doesn't sound like there is. If there was, you should at least get some sputtering/coughing, but if it's just spinning, sounds like no fuel.

I had the spade terminal on my shut off solenoid disconnect after hitting a bump once and the truck just died going down the interstate. I replaced it when I got home!

 

[1stgen4evr]

no go

I agree with dodgenstein but also think that you may not have gotten the filter sealed and therefore could be ingesting a bit of air when the engine is shut down. You don''t say whether it would run after some spinning prior to this. Generally, the solonoid is all or none unless there is a loose wire. Try priming with the jigger lever on the lift pump and see if that gets it going. If so, you have a minor air leak. I have experienced both problems in the past. Mine would be worse if the fuel was really low in the tank. I eventually replaced the lift pump which seemed to cure the leak back.



James

 

[Headshot zod]

I'm sorry... . After I popped in the new battery and had the similar problem it kicked over.





This morning it spun a little longer then usual and then fired up. Now, a couple of times it happened the truck was parked on a small incline upwards. I'll check the fuel filter and make sure its really tight. And as far as the solenoid. How much to do the run. I'm sure mine is the original and has 170k or so on it.



Thanks again.....

 

[SFerrin]

Hate to say it, could be injector

Others will have good advice too, but it is possible that at 170 k the injector is beginning to go south. Mine went at 212k miles with similar symptoms, and I checked the fuel lines, etc, lift pump, filter, etc. Mine in addition had the symptom that when I drove it around town and stopped and started it it would get successively harder to start as it got warmer. If you want to know more give me a shout at ferrin@post. harvard. edu. It might not be your injector. Mine, after replacement runs like a new truck and starts perfectly.



There are other possibilities, but this was what it was for mine.

 

[SFerrin]

By the way, I also replaced the fuel solenoid shutoff switch first, and no fix. You haven't mentioned the lift pump. Is it pumping adequately. If not, that may be why you're injection pump is bad (if it is). It may make it harder to start too. It would be great if it was just a matter of you bolting on a new lift pump. Good luck.

 

[1stgen4evr]

"parked on a small incline upward"



Sure sounds like a leak back problem. I should add that the air ingestion may not be happening at the filter. There are two directional flow valves in the lift pump and as they age, will allow the fuel to leak back to the tank. There are other places that can ingest air. Have you noted the problem as it relates to low fuel in the tank. Mine was always worse when the fuel level was low. The lift pump cured my problem.



James

 

[Headshot zod]

Sounds like I have the "Combo-Platter" of current possibilities.



I may be closer to 200k on the motor.



Friday night, had a date, parked on a severe upward angle with low fuel. I let the truck roll backwards out of the space onto level ground and waited a few minutes and it fired right up. Engine was cold.



Yesterday, problem at work (see above) left the engine running whilst shopping for new battery. Got home, parked in front of my house, nose pointing uphill, swapped battery and it hesitated before it fired. The engine was most certainly warmed up as it was running for over an hour. Absolutely no sputtering. So the instant it had fuel it fired right up.



Ok... . so based on that.



The suggestion would be



1) Purchase lift pump first. (should be done anyway due to age) See what happens.

2) Replace Fuel Solenoid Shutoff Switch just on principal



now that I got a job this week



3) Install Exhaust Pyrometer.

4) Replace Exhaust

5) Turbo

6) Injectors



All in favor SAY "I"

 

[1stgen4evr]

I will be very surprised if the fuel solonoid is the problem. Fill the tank completely and see if that influences the problem. Since you have a job and can afford the 50 bucks to fill it.



The lift pump is not an age related thing but more likely the result of dirty fuel. There needs to be a filter ahead of the lift pump but Dodge didn't include that. Close to 200k miles doesn't mean anything either. My truck has nearly 500k and the lift pump lasted to about 300k.



James

 

[Headshot zod]

I'm at a half tank now so I'll tank it tomorrow in the am.

 

[SFerrin]

Definitely try the things you have in order, except for injectors. I'd probably consider injection pump before injectors. Mine would start right after I stopped it. Then after sitting a bit and perhaps soaking up some heat it then would not start. It had trouble starting on any hill. Cold it would always start fine. This was again, fixed by a new injection pump. Which was fine for me, since I can now forget about that for the next 150k or so I hope. Good luck.

 

[Headshot zod]

ugh! I was exiting route 17 today with a topped off tank and I stalled it going up a hill trying to avoid a smaller car. Had issues starting it back up.

 

[Headshot zod]

Definitely try the things you have in order, except for injectors. I'd probably consider injection pump before injectors. Mine would start right after I stopped it. Then after sitting a bit and perhaps soaking up some heat it then would not start. It had trouble starting on any hill. Cold it would always start fine. This was again, fixed by a new injection pump. Which was fine for me, since I can now forget about that for the next 150k or so I hope. Good luck.

I'm really praying its not the injection pump as I have been collected most the parts for a 2nd gen conversion.

 

[FrankSmith]

you might want to check your sending unit assembly they have filter on bottm that floats up and down and they have been known to hangup

 

[bgilbert]

Fuel filters are cheap. I once gained 2psi of fuel pressure by changing a 1k mile old fuel filter. Try that first. Even though its may not be your problem, if you changed it AND the lift pump and things corrected themselves, you wouldn't know WHICH one was at fault. So since you say you're gonna go with a p-pump, we hope its not your injection pump, stick with the cheap things first, fuel filter, then $50 lift pump. I have a slightly dead lift pump you can have, it gave 3psi at idle, zero at WOT with a tuned pump. BUT I never experienced starting troubles ever, under any conditions.

 

[Headshot zod]

Ok here we go



replaced fuel filter... . nothing



replaced lift pump..... nothing



After I replaced the pump. I found a hill and shut it down, nose up hill. Tried to start it up again after about a minute and the same problem occured. Once I was flat it started right up and ran fine. #@$%!

 

[Headshot zod]

anyone anyone... . bueller bueller... ...



injection pump, sending unit, injectors ?



thanks

 

[1stgen4evr]

It would not be impossible that the power to the solonoid is intermittent in the start phase for some reason. Try a hot jumper to the fuel cutoff solonoid and see if that shows anything. Install the end on the solonoid first and then connect to the battery (use a fuse) so you won't have hot sparks around the fuel pump. You should feel a slight tick as the plunger lifts. (put your finger on the solonoid body) Should this prove to be the problem, I would think that the problem is in the switch. I would also say that this is grabing for straws but nothing else comes to mind.



If nose up when parking is related, turn the truck around before you stop. My trucks have gone through similar action and after a time, cured themselves. They will sometimes puke a minor amount of fuel from the diaphragm on the top of the injection pump. I don't have any idea as to why. But if fuel can get out there, air can get in there.



Sorry I can't offer more help.



James

 

[Headshot zod]

Thanks all for the great info.....



we can now add poor idle quality and stuttering.....