Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) have saved 800 for bombs, which ones?

[Barry]

I have followed this thread with interest. Knowing that each persons truck and driving habits are differant, I would offer this info.



There seems to be a grave concern about the clutch in this guy's truck. In my 01/2500, I started getting clutch slip at 22,000 miles. It was my fault as I was using the truck to move trailers around my RV lot. Hence the premature failure.



I replaced the clutch with another OEM unit and at 102K it is still pulling TTs and 5ers up and down the highway. Most all of the miles are with an EZ and Stage 1 injectors.



Replace the clutch when it slips. You have already paid for it.

 

[RSnaith]

Originally posted by Barry

I replaced the clutch with another OEM unit and at 102K it is still pulling TTs and 5ers up and down the highway. Most all of the miles are with an EZ and Stage 1 injectors.

Barry brings up an interesting point here. Most of the early slippage clutches that I've run into are from trucks that spend a great deal of time in the city, versus highway driving. When you think about it, it makes sense.



Personally, I drove an 01 ETH with a DragComp (usually on 5x5 empty or 'lightly' loaded, 3x5 towing heavy) and either 275s or DD2s. My heavy loads were in the 30K range (trailer and load), my light loads in the 17K range. And I had very few in-town miles. With this combo, I was able to get 40K out of my stock clutch, and indeed, didn't begin to slip until I started going to a few diesel shows and driving the truck very hard.



Having said this, a practical limit for mixed driving and the kind of weight being towed seems to be around the 300 HP mark. It would be shame to buy the performance enhancements, only to have to pull them off until a clutch can be purchased.



I just took a read back on the thread, and realized there was mention of a propane system. Rod, is this installed right now? If it is installed, how much HP is it? If it is installed, this may limit your options to a clutch (depending on how/where you drive) as a first step.

 

[rodmeyer]

Rsnaith, yes the propane is installed. its the latest bully dog system. I think the HP is between 60 an 80 . I have it set just 1/4 turn out , of detonation. comes on about 5lbs boost. doesn't seem to run any hotter egts. I was thinking 4'' exhaust . but not to many people mentioned it. Rod

 

[TxDieselKid]

Originally posted by rodmeyer

Rsnaith, yes the propane is installed. its the latest bully dog system. I think the HP is between 60 an 80 . I have it set just 1/4 turn out , of detonation. comes on about 5lbs boost. doesn't seem to run any hotter egts. I was thinking 4'' exhaust . but not to many people mentioned it. Rod

Rob,

When you go to bigger injectors, you will get a bigger boost from the propane. I say do either box or injectors, and then clutch, then the other half of the box/injectors.



Andrew

 

[RSnaith]

Originally posted by rodmeyer

I was thinking 4'' exhaust . but not to many people mentioned it.

Well, you've got a bunch of options open to you. Personally, I'd skip the 4" exhaust right now, unless you really want the sound. A good aftermarket air intake (skip laying a filter under the hood. Its ineffective) will help reduce EGTs much more than a 4", and its about 1/2 the price. But I'd only do this if your EGTs are out of control. If they are fine, don't worry about it right now.



If you do drop a couple hundred on an air intake, that stil leaves you 6 bills to play with



So then you can pick up a box or injectors, but be prepared to either unplug the box or turn off the propane if/when the clutch starts to slip. If it were my truck, and I was pulling the kind of weight you are, I'd be looking to the clutch right now. There is nothing worse than trying to struggle 20K up an 8% grade with a clutch smoking away :{

 

[John Berger]

Originally posted by RSnaith

1) Edge EZ or other low end fueling/timing box (if you plan on stepping up to even greater power, consider a Comp or TST PM3 Adjustable, and leave it turned down). The fueling/timing box pulls your torque peak down lower into the RPM range, giving you useful towing power while climbing hills. It will also give you a wider RPM range in which the truck is making power. A truck with bigger injectors will keep its factory torque curve which is a dog under 1800 RPM. The fueling box will also act as a boost fooler, getting you ready for future injector upgrades without the added expense of a boost fooler now (In my opinion, you _need_ to get the boost up with bigger injectors, even 275s, while towing to keep EGTs under control).

Injectors make their power higher in the RPM band, complimenting the fueling boxes which tend to make power lower in the RPM band, correct? I want to make sure I've got that straight. I'm running 275hp injectors and the Edge EZ. The 4 inch exhaust system is good advice

 

[RSnaith]

Originally posted by John Berger

Injectors make their power higher in the RPM band, complimenting the fueling boxes which tend to make power lower in the RPM band, correct?

Injectors tend to make power throughout the entire RPM range. They will make more power at higher RPMs, just simply due to the VP44 fueling heavier, but they also tend to influence off-idle power more than a fueling box will. Most boxes don't really do much until around 1400 - 1500 RPM, and by 1800 - 2000 (depending on the box) they are pulling strong. So I look at it in the other direction: the fueling boxes give you a big mid-range boost, which flattens your torque curve, while the injectors provide you with bottom end fill that the box couldn't get to, and raise your overall torque peak.

 

[HC]

You own a manual; and tow 20k.



To me, the answer is obvious: Exhaust Brake!



(It was on your list, but should be at #1 IMHO. )

 

[Qualey]

This has been something I have debating as well. With the fuel chip, intake and exhaust done, I have thought about the injectors. However, along with that comes the clutch. My local shop sells Centerforce, but I see a lot of members have the South Bend. Big difference?

Anyway, even with the mods now, with the weight we carry daily, I know the factory clutch is due in the next few months. My dilemma is when do things start to go in the opposite direction, i. e. , mods causing more harm (wear and poor mileage) than benefit. I'm all for more power, but work with this truck and don't need a money pit nor a maintenance nightmare. Am I pushing my luck by adding a downpipe and injectors?



Matt

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Qualey

My local shop sells Centerforce, but I see a lot of members have the South Bend. Big difference?

VERY BIG! have a buddy that is a member of DTR. He has a 94 2500 with 300HP Cummins Marine injectors, and a # 10 TST plate and less than a year later his Centerforce is screaming MERCY.



Buy Southbend, do it right the first time.

 

[Qualey]

Thanks for the reply. I've had Centerforce in the past and had no problems with them, but I didn't haul this kind of weight around (see pic). I remember that the Centerforce had a nice feel.

I have decided to add the downpipe and perhaps injectors. As you can see, we are in need of a larger trailer, and that means more weight (and more power!). I'm new to the list and have been scanning past posts to try to find out what has worked best for others with my style truck and situation.



Matt

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Qualey

Thanks for the reply. I've had Centerforce in the past and had no problems with them, but I didn't haul this kind of weight around (see pic). I remember that the Centerforce had a nice feel.

I have decided to add the downpipe and perhaps injectors. As you can see, we are in need of a larger trailer, and that means more weight (and more power!). I'm new to the list and have been scanning past posts to try to find out what has worked best for others with my style truck and situation.



Matt

If your towing that heavy a lot of the time Call Peter at South Bend and ask him about his 13. 25" clutch upgrade. I believe it was designed with heavy towing in mind