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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) have to drop the tank, any advice?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) New gauges install

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) B20 Diesel

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I have to drop the tank to replace the float so my wife knows when to fill it:-laf. Anything that I should do while I'm in there? Also if there's anything to watch for that would help to. Sorry it's on a stock 94 2wd, not sure how to add that truck to my sig. it's too long. Thanks
 
You'll want to get a new gasket for the sending unit housing. You want to make sure that the top of the tank is as clean as possible before you open it up. Make sure you are extremely careful with disconnecting the wiring. The plugs are very brittle by now. I cracked a couple of my connectors. Also, in addition to the sending unit itself, be prepared to replace the entire float assembly as it can wear a groove in the side of it.

To lower the tank, its easier with it as empty as possible. I used a large piece of wood to support the entire tank on a floor jack so I could loosen the straps and drop it. Removing the left rear tire make it easier to access everything. While you tank is out, check the metal supply lines along the frame for rust, leaks etc.

Good Luck!
 
I used a floor jack at the back end and a jurry rig rope sling on the front. Not a big job, but as stated, easier when nearly out of fuel. For me, it was necessary to drop the tank a few inches before I could get at the quick disconnect hoses. ditto on the electrical connector, I broke a tab off of mine and used a small nylon tye to hold it back together. It took about fours to do the entire job. (next time, half that)

Rog
 
No need to drop the tank. Jack up the bed. I loosened the 3 bolts on the right side, removed the 3 bolts on the left side, unplugged a plug or two, disconnected the fuel fill, and jacked up the left side high enough to to the sender. Be sure to brace the bed after jacking so it doesn't fall on your head! I think that some have done a similar thing except that you jack up the front of the bed to get clearance.
 
I would do some pre-swearing warmups... like 'rubber baby buggy bumpers' 5-10 times... 'red leather, yellow leather' 5-10 times... then ask the lord for forgiveness in advance before you take his name in vain.
 
I would do some pre-swearing warmups... like 'rubber baby buggy bumpers' 5-10 times... 'red leather, yellow leather' 5-10 times... then ask the lord for forgiveness in advance before you take his name in vain.





That's always my pre-truck working routine:-laf I also like to judge these things by not so much the swear words used, but the amount of beer money burned on a job#@$%!
 
While your in there, there was someone here on the forums that was making a kit that you install on your tank that eliminated that annoying 2 gallon space in your tank that kept you from filling it all the way up. That would be a nice bomb. If anyone knows who that was, I would sure love to know.

Thanks,

WD
 
If there is a mesh filter screen covering the sending unit intake area, I'd cut it out while you have the unit removed. It will eventually clog up with junk and you'll end up doing it again. I wish I'd removed mine while I had the tank down on my '03. With 3 other external fuel filters I think I'm covered without that in-tank one. :)
 
I made a simple hoist from rope and some pulleys in my garage so I can use my comealong to lift the bed. Cheap and easy. I can sit on a stool while working on the top of the tank. I used it to replace a sending unit for a couple of guys. It will also come in handy when I have to replace the exhaust pipe.
 
I did mine by myself and lowered the tank. I didn't wan't to mess with the fifth wheel hitch just to be able to raise the bed. Now with my sleeper in place, it is even less desireable to raise the bed.
 
I used two tie down straps (the ones that you push to release, not the ratchet type) attached to the frame. Made it a one man job with about a quarter tank of fuel. They made the re-installation easy also.
 
This weekend I'll be lifting my bed also. 8 bolts hold the bed to frame, then 3 smaller ones near the filler neck and then an electrical plug connection at rear. Need second set of hands. Shouldn't be too bad. Fuel lines on old module (what holds them in place) has rotted away. Got new module from dealer ($$$-ouch). You may want to consider at this time also changing your steel supply/return lines (if you haven't already) from the module to the engine with Larry B's fuel line hoses. Mine will be delivered Monday. If yours look rusted, change them. I developed a leak in my steel supply line under the cab. What started all this with mine was a hard start issue. Changing out parts by process of elimination. Hopefully I'll get it resolved. Good luck! Mike
 
Thanks for all the advice:) I hope to tackle this on Sunday as it's supposed to rain all day. Good day to be in the garage watching football and cussin at the truck:-laf
 
Don't know if you dropped it or not? But if so, I just did it this afternoon in 45 mins. That was with the truck sitting on a slope with a trailer hooked up, (buddy ran her out of fuel :mad:). The only jacking I had to do was when the tank was on the ground: I put a jack under the diff. and lifted the truck a couple inches. And mine is a 2wd... .....



One thing I would recommend is going to harbor freight and purchasing a motorcycle lift. It worked perfectly for lowering the tank! In addition, I have used it to lift a differential into place, raise my lawn mower, drop a transmission and a myriad of other things. Funny though it didn't work worth a crap for any of the bikes that I have owned. :confused:
 
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