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HE341 to HE 351cw question about negating Wastegate

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Budding Transmission Problems

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We have our HE351cw and are getting two longer studs for Emanifold. So can we install (2003) this seamlessly and just put a small hose clamp on the line going to the Wgate actuator and leave the electronic unit intact? I`ve done a lot of searches and we hopefully will pull the trigger tommorow. Stock everything work truck pulling 10K. Like to do the other stuff but do not have time to wait on parts from E-bay (adjustable elbow,plugs... . ) . Pinch WG hose and back on the road ?:confused:
 
That will keep the WG closed and the boost up. With stock fueling you likely won'y have a problem over boosting. If you want more protection put a boost elbow in the boost reference line and use it to adjust max boost.
 
Maybe just bolt it on for now and NOT pinch line to WGate to play it safe. I think I read if you don`t touch it just bolt on it will run 26-28 psi
 
It will run whatever the equivalent of the setting on the actuator spring is. That could be 20 psi or it could be 26 psi.



With no power to the WG controller it acts like a mechanical WG. Full boost is applied to the actuator. Boost will depend on how tight and how good the spring in the actuator is.



You can try it without pinching the line and then add the elbow later.
 
Whichever will wake her up a bit from stock ,then I`ll feel justified for the trouble and cost. Appreciate the feedback.
 
A lot will depend on fueling. With stock fueling you might see a bit more boost, or not. Its a trade off of fueling to air and compressor size. You might actually see and need less boost witht he HE351 because the air is better at lower boost.



Likely won't see a power increase but you should see an EGT drop, how much just depends on your truck.
 
I have done the swap. 22 psi max on 351 waste gate. I added boost elbow and was very tough to get 35 psi, elbow had to be closed. I then shortened the waste gate rod. That got me back to 26 psi. I then added a boost elbow from an edge ez and 33 psi is now about max. I would bench test waste gate with regulated air and shorten rod until it reaches what you want. Stock they go to 31 psi I think. I would like 35 psi but it is p
a pain to remove the waste gate.
 
the mod to the solenoid is easy and cheap

if you look at the solenoid there are three ports on it separated by two o rings the hole in the end is manifold pressure. the center is to the waste gate. the waste gate spring is set to 20 psi. now look at the portion that has the threads. you will see four holes. this leads back to the intake. inside the solenoid there is a cup with a spring that when no voltages is applied it covers the 4 hole port setting the waste gate opening at 20 psi. when the ecm calls for more air it sends a modulated 5 volt signal to the solenoid to increase opening to the required pressure up to a limit of 30 psi. this is for emissions. if you have excessive air you produce NO the ecm keeps the pressure just barely enough for combustion thus the smoke. i figured out two ways to make it work remove the three o rings to prevent damaging them and cut the solenoid into about 7/8 inch above the base that mates to the turbo next cut the square part where the wrench go's deeper to make it easier to tighten up. i cut some more of the outer barrel off for looks but you do not have to. next remove any parts left in the center tube, you will be able to see all the way through the tube. tap the tube with a 1/8 in. npt. here starts the two different ways to do this, the first way is to install a 1/8 pipe plug with a hole drilled and tapped in the middle of it to accept a fine thread screw i think i used a 6-32, taper the end to a needle, screw a nut on and screw it in the plug. screw it in until it stops. you now have your needle valve set at minimum pressure, unscrew it a few turns and adjust to where you get 35 psi max. the second way requires brazing, braze the four ports closed and braze the tip of the high pressure tip closed and drill a smaller hole in it to limit the amount of air, next screw a needle valve in where the plug would have gone. take the rubber washer out of the valve and use a piece of copper wire in its place, you do not need a seal, this is only for resistance on the needle.

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I added boost elbow and was very tough to get 35 psi, elbow had to be closed.



If the elbow was closed and passing no boost you simply don't have enough fuel to spin the turbo hard enough to generate it. The HE351 is not going to push the higher number until the 3rd event kicks in and adds fuel. You don't have that in a 305\555 plus the shape of the event(s) will limit the turbo.



Even with the boost reference line pinched a stock fueled 325\600 is going to spend the bulk of its time under 35 psi, generally 30-32. It will take a load, a grade, and +3200 rpms to hit 40 psi.



Without the extra fueling the exhaust flow is simply not enough on the small housing to supprt the larger compressor. Not only does it need to spin the compressor it needs to overcome the DP, that requires more fuel.
 
with my easy mod or a adjustable boost elbow is the only way to go. above 32 psi the drive pressure is counter productive and while stock will not exceed 32 with the wg clamped. getting better mpg with a smarty jr will, just do it right the first time
 
Thanks for all the food for thought friends. And I will use this info as I gain knowledge of what makes my moneymaker tick. We buttoned up the turbo this afternoon (HE351cw) . We took it around a country mile of steep hills ,open highway ... and unless I`m imagining things ,it idles better ,has a smooth power through shifts and just seemed to have a lot more pep.
 
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